New to turning - a few teething difficulties

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Rob_H

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Right my Axminster lathe has arrived and I know that I need to go to a club or take some lessons, but as usual, I can't wait to start. I'm trying to turn a piece of spalted piece - which is about ten inch long rectangle using a roughing out gauge. I only seem to be taking the edges off and not making it go round. I've watched the Sorby DVD that came with my chisels and read the books but still not getting anywhere. I know I'm doing something wrong but don't know what. The lathe is a Axminster AWVSL1000 Woodturning Lathe - it doesn't show the RPM settings only fast to slow, and I've set it to what I think would be 800 RPM - about 5" square block.

Any tips?
 
rob, you have just got your tools out of the box yea? well if so they will be blunt, they need sharpening. but at the end of the day they should still remove wood.
 
I will try sharpening - though they seemed sharp, but I'll try it now. Using the roughing out gauge.
 
Hmm, I think sharpening may be the problem. I'm sharpening using an Peform Grinder which is a B&Q cheapie but having a few issues. I don't seem to be very good at getting a sharp edge or flat bevel. I don't want to ruin the new tool so may have to look at lessons and a new sharpening kit.
 
Hi Rob.

As greggy said, 'sharpen'. IME no turning tool is ready to go out of the box. They will cut but not properly. You are probably having to push too hard to make the cut.

Also I know you say you are a beginner, but making sure the wood is fixed securely to the lathe I would up the speed a bit. What is happening is you are following the contours of the square block as you hit and miss at the edges going round.

Roughing down a spindle you can have the speed as fast as you feel comfortable with, the faster the better. Then once you are ready place your gouge onto the rest about an inch in from the edge of the wood, lift the handle gently until you are hitting the wood with the bevel. Continue lifting slowly until you see a shaving come over the top edge and push the gouge to the side. All movements are slow and gentle, let the tool cut, don't push it. Don't let the tool slide inwards as it loses the support of the timber when it cuts air in the gaps, continue doing this and in a few seconds you should have a cylinder.

I know it sound awkward, but if you go through the motions of rest, bevel, then cut. ie; place the tool on the rest, place the heel of the bevel against the wood (so it is barely tapping the edges), raise the handle to find the cut, then slide to the side. Never start the cut at the ends, always start in and work towards the edges.

The main mistake beginners make is to go in with the gouge resting square on the rest, then as you push it into the wood you actually end up scraping the wood away, not cutting it.

If you can visualise your bevel and cutting edge and compare it to sharpening a pencil with a pocket knife. That is how you want to present the tool to the wood. This is for all edge tools, but NOT scrapers, they are another thing once you come to use them.

Good luck!
 
Rob, dont do any more. Go to someone who can show you how to sharpen your tools. Make sure he knows what he is doing, it's so easy in your state of impatience to trust anyone. Look for another woodturner in your area,or even an engineering shop where you could be shown the basics. I was like you and every Tom "****" and Harry knew the way to do it. I was down to the Ferrule which is the brass piece that goes into the handle before I said sod this (it wouldnt sound like that) and travelled thirty miles to a wood turner and was shown how .He was useing a home made gig very similer to the one Keith Rowley showes in his book.
Woodturning can be an expensive hobby if you do foolish things, get lessons will cost a few bob but its cheaper than a new set of tools every couple of weeks or worse still aHospital bill. So make sure you can enjoy your turning by doing all the right things. REgards Boysie
 
Rob_H":e75yp609 said:
.........................

Any tips?

HI

Apart from what the others have said the best tip, which wont help at the moment, is join a club.

Where abouts in the fens are you, there are clubs all around here if you let me know your location I can give you the nearest ones.

If you fancy a trip to Peterborough I would be happy to help you.

john
 
Help is at hand - Graham (Old Soke) is coming over tomorrow to give me a quick lesson. Thanks to everyone for the advice.


Rob
 
Sounds like there are a few of us in the general location - you only have to ask.......

By the way - do you want to get a 15 mm item from your chunk of wood - beware Graham!!!!
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :p :p :p :p :p 8)

15mm ....sorry Nick, I don't do macro :p
 
Thanks to Graham for the lesson - learned loads this morning and he fixed my problems. Sharpening ics clearly the key - I was going to order an Axminster grinder which I thought was about £30-40 but they don't seem to do that one anymore. Any other recommendations (other than a Tormek!!)
 
I'm trying to keep the cost down - had any expensive month with the lathe and the Robert Sorby chisels. The slow speed one on Axminster was over £200. More than I want to pay - only looking at around £40 at the moment.
 
Thanks Rob
Shock, horror at the price of the Record Grinder... £49 on their website...

Meantime, a white wheel for your existing grinder might be the short term cost effective answer (check the bushing size on yours):
500380
or
500378

together with 410074 :wink:
 
Rob_H":1fzc9ccx said:
I'm trying to keep the cost down - had any expensive month with the lathe and the Robert Sorby chisels. The slow speed one on Axminster was over £200. More than I want to pay - only looking at around £40 at the moment.

Rob , PM me if you are interested in a used cresuen or Tormek , I have both :p :wink:
 
Thanks, Blister, but when I had Axminster they found one of the £30 in stock so I've ordered that one.
 
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