New table saw? Lumberjack TS1800

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It's an old one. The website itself says it's the blade speed but also an induction motor.

Would it be hooked up directly on a saw this size?

Interestingly, lumberjacktools.co.uk is owned by toolsave, a tool retailer for the last 15 years or so.

I sent an enquiry about the blade speed so I'll report back if they reply.

Got a reply, it is the blade RPM and it is belt driven. So its a 1:1 to the induction motor. Makes sense as the Rigid version is also a 3400 RPM unit and induction over there would run at that too.

I did also suggest getting one to someone on youtube to use but that I don't have a channel of my own!

Streadman & Son YouTube channel have a few Lumberjack tools now. Worth a visit.
 
By way of update on this table saw - after purchasing it I had to do some fiddling to ensure the blade and fence were aligned.

Fence alignment was fine, but blade alignment was a bit fiddly - that said I haven't had to adjust the blade alignment again. I have had to adjust the fence, both times were minor and pretty easy to do.

The motor is very quiet (comparatively) but the dust collection is pretty poor - I don't know if this is normal for table saws but the dust collection I have is 100mm and appears to have a strong pull (using my hand over the pipe), but as there are so many gaps etc in the table saw cabinet I suspect a lot of suction is lost this way.

The worst offender is on top of the saw itself though - the provided guard has no mechanism to attach overhead dust collection so a fair bit gets spread on the top of the saw when cutting. I plan to order another guard with a dust collection attachment and I'm hoping this will help. To be fair this isn't a huge problem, just not great overall (but I've not anything to compare it to, so again maybe this is normal).

The last negative would be the arbor diameter - it's 5/8" and it's a bit of a pain finding blades here for that size. I've ended up having to get 30mm blades and use reduction rings, which can occasionally be a bit fiddly.

Now all of that sounds negative, but overall I have no regrets getting this table saw - since getting it I've made a number of shop cabinets and found the saw reliable and easy to use, especially once I'd made myself a crosscut sled. As I've said I've nothing to compare it to but for a newbie like myself I've found it easy to use, adjust when necessary and not screaming loud like some portable saws I was considering.

Overall happy with my purchase!
 
Re the gaps in the table saw body , You need them if it was a sealed box no air could get in to be sucked out
You need a flow of air through the saw that will carry the chips / dust away
 
Have a look at the video Dennis of Hooked on wood channel on youtube has done of the sawtable insert he has designed

 
Was about to say the same as above.

Many think that to get efficient extraction you need a zero clearance and no gaps in the frame to focus the suck, but that just means the extractor is choking as it can't get enough air inside. Strategic holes and an overhead extractor as you've already me tip will really help.

Glad you're enjoying the saw though, one of the cheapest of its type I think?
 
Thanks for the suggestions - as it happens I have watched Dennis' video (he's great) and as a test I'd taped up most of the supplied (Ieaving a gap of maybe 2/3mm all along the blade) insert and it wasn't much better.

In Dennis' case I believe the rest of his cabinet is fairly airtight which is why he had to allow for holes for airflow - in my case there are many holes (ie the angle adjustment mechanism leaves a long curved gap of about 4cm wide, about 20cm long) which is why I suggested a lot of the suction gets lost this way.

This is just a guess however - it's entirely possible that my dust extraction is the problem but as I say it seems fairly powerful when I wave my hand over the 100mm pipe.

When time allows I'm going to temporarily seal the large obvious gaps leaving deliberate ones, such as via the insert above. I'll just do it with tape initially to see what if any difference it makes.

Re cost I think it was comparable to others of this type if I recall, but what swayed it for me was it's ability to support dado blades. As it happens now that I've used it a fair bit I don't actually think I will get a set of dado blades (I haven't found it necessary yet) but when I bought it all the videos I'd watched were US based and seemed to all use dado blades!

I've since branched out and discovered you can get by just fine without them.
 
My old Wadkin has a 5/8 spindle. Most of my blades are 30mm with reduction washers fitted. They are readily available and work fine. Just make sure the blade is clamped by its mounting, not the reduction rings.
 
There are quite a few slow speed videos on the web that show the dust and debris from a saw blade are thrown forward and are contained in the gullet of the blade teeth and jettisoned below the table top, with an efficient overhead guard that has the extract at the front and a contained area below the table most of the debris is collected and the table remains clean, many way to carry out this efficiently, some good, some not so good.
 
I agree with that - as I said above the biggest problem is dust on top/over the saw itself, as opposed to underneath. As it stands I don't have a safe mechanism to try capture this dust so I'll be buying guard that allows me to connect dust collection overhead - I'm hoping that will at least alleviate some of the dust kicked out

Re reduction rings - I agree it's not a big deal, just occasionally fiddly esp when they slip out when you're swapping out blades
 
Hi all,

Thought I'd draw some attention to a new (?) table saw I saw listed on ebay. I've been keeping my eyes open for a table saw for a while and frequently check for local listing when I spotted this one. It looks to be a rebranded Ridgid R4512 (Which is only avaliable in the US). Cast iron top, induction motor... Sounds too good to be true.

Not sure how long these have been out so I was wondering if anyone has one or if anyone has any "Lumberjack" tools in general. It looks like rebranded draper / sealey type stuff.
beware i made big mistake of purchasing one of these saws only to find it was a chinese knock off the front rail where it is jointed was not square and i had to machine them square the steel side extensions are slightly longer than the cast iron table which means the front and back rails will not lie flat against the cast iron table i had to shim out the rails it is impossible to get the blade at 90 degrees to the table regardless of normal adjustment the rise and fall wheel and 45 degree bevel wheel are extremely stiff the cast iron table front is bevelled at one side and runs away to nothing at the other side [maybe i got a bad one ] toolsave are claiming this saw is made by them which i have difficulty with is this what british standard of engineering has come to i dont think so i really feel well and truly ripped off as this saw cost £1099 ..... delivered it is certainly nowhere worth near that i originally purchased the saw from amazon at £999 with free delivery only for toolsave to cancel the order and re advertise it at a higher price tosay that this is a copy of the rigid R4512 would make rigid turn in its grave i would like to say that i have 50 years in woodwork/joiner/carpenter and after all this time i feel conned shows what you get for buying a tool of this nature in the middle of a pandemic anything good! yes it cuts wood --- the tractable casters are very good in a small workshop --- anything else --- yes -- i wish that i had bought a better brand
 
Just bought and assembled the Lumberjack TS1800 and out of the box so far so good.
Bought at the Newark show Saturday and the saw arrived Tuesday morning, one big heavy pallet.
The rear rail for the fence is a faff, as there is not a lot of space to get the washers and nuts on the cast portion of the table (even with the rear panel removed.
Followed the instructions to the letter and all went well, nothing missing and it went together easily, but not a two minute job.
This is my first table saw, so if I was more experience the assembly may have been quicker.
Only done a few test cuts so far, but I'm happy.
The Lumberjack guys at the show could not have been more helpful.
 
Just Googled this saw (vaguely interested) and 2 very different price ranges come up. £900 or £150 (Amazon) The difference seems to be the retracting undercarriage on the dearer one as against a simple stand on the other. Do I really have to pay £750 for a set of wheels or am I missing something, old/latest models, maybe?
Brian
 
Just Googled this saw (vaguely interested) and 2 very different price ranges come up. £900 or £150 (Amazon) The difference seems to be the retracting undercarriage on the dearer one as against a simple stand on the other. Do I really have to pay £750 for a set of wheels or am I missing something, old/latest models, maybe?
Brian

Keith Brown reviewed it recently and quite liked it

 
Just Googled this saw (vaguely interested) and 2 very different price ranges come up. £900 or £150 (Amazon) The difference seems to be the retracting undercarriage on the dearer one as against a simple stand on the other. Do I really have to pay £750 for a set of wheels or am I missing something, old/latest models, maybe?
Brian
Lumberjack do several different sizes of saw. I paid £899 for my TS1800 saw which included delivery. Not seen it as cheap as £150, check the model number.
 
Just Googled this saw (vaguely interested) and 2 very different price ranges come up. £900 or £150 (Amazon) The difference seems to be the retracting undercarriage on the dearer one as against a simple stand on the other. Do I really have to pay £750 for a set of wheels or am I missing something, old/latest models, maybe?
Brian
Looks like £899 is the standard price?

Perhaps one us the wheels only kit. I thought the wheels were integrated in the stand?!
 

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