New Spindle Moulder and Bandsaw - and some questions.

[Zeddedhed]

I've just taken the plunge and added a new Spindle Moulder (iTech 01456) and used Bandsaw (Axi White AWHBS350N) to the workshop. Having never owned either a Spindle Moulder or a Bandsaw before I have a few questions.

Firstly, as a lot of what I make seems to be in the 'Shaker' style an adjustable groover seems to be a good investment. However, having just looked online at Axi and Wealden and Scott & Sargeant they are fiercely expensive. The Omas wobble saw comes up much cheaper. I know that it won't produce a flat bottomed groove but that doesn't bother me. The question is How good are the wobble saws? What is the quality of the finish?

Secondly, is there anyone out there with the same model of bandsaw as mine? I didn't pay much for it but still expect it to be able to cut in a straight line. I've watched Alex Snodgrass on youtube showing how to set one up and he spins the wheel with his fingers and it keeps spinning. Mine stops dead the minute you let go. Any tips/hints on setting one of these machines up.

That's all for now.

Cheers

 

[Baldhead]

Regarding your bandsaw, I think this is the same model as one of mine, I had a lot of problems getting the blade to stay on the tyres with axminster blades, I recommend buying some blades from Ian at Tuffsaws, it will transform your bandsaw.
Regarding the wheels stopping dead, I would remove the blade and try spinning the wheels, if they stop dead it sounds like a bearing partially seized.
Steve Maskerys DVD's on the bandsaw are well worth buying, lots of setup information and he supply's plans for some very nice jigs.

HTH

Stew

 

[blackrodd]

I have found The omas range is good quality stuff.
As The blade will be cutting with the grain, the teeth will be of a fine rip shape,
Therefore you will have "woolly" finish on occasions, as you can get with a ripsaw.
Most of my spindle relief cuts, shoulders etc are made using the wobble saw as they tend not to burn.
A slower feed speed helps, and maybe a part depth cut first will help.
You'll have to experiment with different cuts etc with the new wobble saw.
And obviously the finer the wobble setting, the smaller the radius left will be.
HTH Regards Rodders

Have you checked this out yet? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TREND-IT-7120 ... 4897.l4275

Maybe useful! Rodders

 

[custard]

I know lots of workshops use wobble saws because they're so much cheaper, but personally I'm not a fan. The one I used (not Omas) wasn't as easy as a decent adjustable to set to a reliable 0.1mm accuracy. The cut's okay, not great, but okay for occasional grooving. However I wouldn't use one without a power feed, in fact I prefer to use a power feed even with an adjustable groover, but the eccentric orbit of wobble saws means they're that bit more likely to cause kick back. Unless you're setting up for a large run I prefer to groove with an upcut spiral bit on a router table. If I'm trying match a groove to ply (where the thickness will often vary from sheet to sheet) then I'll use an adjustable groover on a spindle moulder.

A spindle moulder's a really useful bit of kit, but I tend to use it most for tenoning and for shaping larger pieces, say thicker than 40 or 50mm, when the quality of the cut is noticeably better than I get from a router table. There's no escaping the fact though that spindle tooling costs can quickly overtake the cost of the machine. If I was buying again I'd look for a second hand spindle moulder with a 1 1/4" shaft, purely because there's plenty of good quality used 1 1/4" tooling going for a song, but used 30mm tooling doesn't seem so plentiful.

If you're new to spindle work you might want to think about some training, maybe Peter Sefton runs spindle courses?

Good luck.

 

[deema]

We are all different, I use my Spindle for everything and hate routers with a passion. The wobble saw is a great investment, and can be used for all sorts of stuff. I have the Omas wobble saw, and I also have a selection of groovers. For me, the wobble saw needs to be used with the grain to avoid tear out at the edges, if I've got horrible grained wood I use a groover as the Spurs help to stop the edge being spilt.

I find the wobble saw easier to set, and since I'm using it for either rebating or trenching, I've never needed to work to 0.1mm tolerances, wood moves so you always need some form of clearance.

 

[skippy75]

Regarding your bandsaw, I think this is the same model as one of mine, I had a lot of problems getting the blade to stay on the tyres with axminster blades, I recommend buying some blades from Ian at Tuffsaws, it will transform your bandsaw.
Regarding the wheels stopping dead, I would remove the blade and try spinning the wheels, if they stop dead it sounds like a bearing partially seized.
Steve Maskerys DVD's on the bandsaw are well worth buying, lots of setup information and he supply's plans for some very nice jigs.

HTH

Stew

+1 for tuffsaw blades, they are fantastic.

 

[Zeddedhed]

Thanks for the replies to my questions guys.
Sorry for not responding sooner but a (non workshop) accident left me unable to type and therefore away from the computer. Not that it's relevant but it involved a Landcover, a Winch, a trailer loaded with 2 tons of firewood and an ill-timed sneeze. I'll leave it at that.

Anyway, back to the original subject.

I went ahead and bought an adjustable groover from S&S. It's a CMT model adjustable from 4 - 15mm and is a superb bit of kit. The apprentice has been using it and is getting great results.

With regard the Bandsaw I've just finished stripping it down and rebuilding it. It would see that mostly it's OK - no seized bearings etc. The big issues I have with it is the guide/guard system. To put it bluntly it is utter dung.

Does anyone here have any experience of changing/upgrading the system on this particular machine.
I'm not exactly gifted in the black art of metalwork so need a solution which is a pretty much an instant fit not requiring too much join the way of mods.

Any thoughts?

 

[blackrodd]

You don't say if you have the handbook for it,

http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf

It'll at least check out and set up you're saw.
After scanning around, It seem you're saw is well liked by most others, but the usual rubbish blade soon
pops it's head up.
Tuffsaws have an excellent reputation on here, but some of us are trying some Axcalibre Premium bandsaw blades
so keep a lookout for that!
HTH Regards Rodders

 

[Zeddedhed]

Thanks for that Rodders.

I've downloaded the manual and thoroughly disassembled and then re-assembled the whole thing, greasing/cleaning etc where required. I'm pretty sure that as you say the saw is a capable beast.

It's the guide and guard assembly that to my mind lets it down.

The guard 'bar' runs on a rack and pinion type device and no matter what I try it always changes position relative to the blade if it's raised or lowered. Because this bar (it's actually and Aluminium extrusion) is what carries the blade guide bearing assembly it means that you constantly need to re-set the bearings. Maybe this is normal on a bandsaw - I don't know as it's my first.

 

[heimlaga]

I am also a fan of spindle moulders. I actually have never owned a router.

I have two wobble saws and an adjustable groover. Just because I got hem all secondhand. The groover is quicker to set up but otherwise the wobble saws are just as good. If you are trying to make a profit you did the right thing when buying the groover just because it saves time. For a hobbyist a wobbler saw would be just as good in my oppinion.

As you live in Britain where 1 1/4 inch tooling is common I think it would be worth the cost for you to have a 1 1/4 inch spindle made for your machine. Maybe you could get such a spindle as an aftermarket part. Spindles are usually pretty easy to shift so then you can shift between an old style and a new style spindle. Then you can make use of some secondhand tooling. However a lot of old tooling on the market is very unsafe. For instance square heads and slip knives aren't really made for us who like to stay alive. Tooling without limiters aren't really up to modern safety standards either though most small businesses keep using them just because few of us are rich enough to afford anything else.