New (second hand) plane

[section_9]

Hi, I just bought a second hand Stanley Bailey No5 hand plane from the car boot (I'm broke) and I'm having trouble getting it going. I have built a V-Lam skateboard from Meranti and American Oak. I'm trying to use the plane to reduce the thickness of the board but the plane just isn't taking anything off but when I plane down the side it works fine....

I have tried sharpening the blade but I'm thinking about taking it somewhere to get re-ground....

Would that work or should I upgrade the blade?
Where would be a good place to get a new blade?
Would I need to grind and sharpen a new blade?

Sorry for all the Q's but I'm pretty new to woodworking so try and take it easy on me :wink:

Cheers

Ash

 

[bugbear]

Hi, I just bought a second hand Stanley Bailey No5 hand plane from the car boot (I'm broke) and I'm having trouble getting it going. I have built a V-Lam skateboard from Meranti and American Oak. I'm trying to use the plane to reduce the thickness of the board but the plane just isn't taking anything off but when I plane down the side it works fine....

I have tried sharpening the blade but I'm thinking about taking it somewhere to get re-ground....

Would that work or should I upgrade the blade?
Where would be a good place to get a new blade?
Would I need to grind and sharpen a new blade?

It sounds like you have a concave board on the face you're planing - check with a straight edge.

And, yes, a new blade would need a fair amount of treatment; it's not an instant fix.

BugBear

 

[newt]

I think Bugbear has hit the nail on the head, you could also check if the sole of the plane is flat.

 

[section_9]

hi, thanks for the replies.

the bottom of the board is actually convex at the moment and I'm trying to thin it down and make it flat, then I'm gonna sand in some concave on the top of the board.

And I just checked the sole of the plane with my square (not sure if this is the correct way to do this) and it seems fine..

 

[lurker]

I think you need someone to cast an eye over your plane, your technique & the work so they can see where you are going wrong.

I'd happily help if you are local.
Suggest you give us a clue where you live & see if you get a volunteer

 

[section_9]

I live in Leeds if that's any help...

 

[Smudger]

Are you going along the length of the board? If not, try taking cuts at 45 degrees to the length.

 

[Digit]

I'm afraid it does sound like technique. There are videos on the net that might help you on that subject Ash.

Roy.

 

[section_9]

thats what I'm doing. cutting at an angle for the length of the board but its still not taking anything off. I'm starting to think that the blade is the problem....

 

[MIGNAL]

Remove the blade and try using it to gently pare away some wood, almost using it chisel like. Don't forget the golden rule: blade always moving away from you. It should cut easily with little effort. Also check that you put the blade back into the plane the correct way i.e. bevel facing down.

 

[section_9]

Ahh, that's a good idea.... Thanks for that, I'll try it in the morning.... Don't worry, I'm not that much of a newbie to woodworking to cut towards me (I hope) :wink:

 

[MIGNAL]

Oak is also a pretty hard wood, not exactly the easiest wood to plane. Your blade will need to be seriously sharp. If you haven't the correct grade of stones you could use the 'scary sharp method' which is by far the cheapest way to get a blade working well.
Dependent on the condition of the primary bevel on your blade it may need regrinding.

 

[section_9]

yeah, the oak seems pretty tough indeed. I was thinking of taking it to a butchers tomorrow but I'm not sure if they regrind or not.
Is this the method of "Scary Sharp" you mentioned?

 

[lurker]

Butchers :shock: :shock:

COME ON "SOMEONE" FROM LEEDS!

Take pity on the bloke & help him out.

S9
the blade needs to be really really sharp and done by someone who knows what they are doing, to deal with Oak. Oak is lovely wood but you need super sharp tools and the blade will need a resharpen whilst you are working.

You can learn yourself ( books, internet) but its easier if someone shows you.

 

[section_9]

Cheers. Well, in my defence I worked at a butchers when i was a kid and he used to sharpen peoples tools for them bt maybe times have changed in 20 years.
I do know how to sharpen and regrind but I dont have a grinder and I have a really rubbish combination stone (my setups all a bit ghetto really) but I obviously arn't experienced enough to be dealing with Oak it seems.....

thanks for all the replies as well folks...... A very helpful bunch if woodworkers indeed

Peace out

 

[section_9]

Ok, I tried out the suggestion that Mignal said and it wont shave for toffee... Looks like i need to get the blade reground...... now to find someone..


thanks for all the help folks. Very kind indeed..

 

[Digit]

If you intend keeping the plane now is the time to learn how to sharpen the iron. It goes with the territory I'm afraid.

Roy.

 

[section_9]

i know, i just needed it to be ground I think, then I can keep on top of it with a sharpening stone myself as I don't have a grinder as I'm broke. It will all come together bit by bit. Gotta start somewhere eh?

Cheers for the help guys.

 

[bugbear]

i know, i just needed it to be ground I think, then I can keep on top of it with a sharpening stone myself as I don't have a grinder as I'm broke. It will all come together bit by bit. Gotta start somewhere eh?

Cheers for the help guys.

With a thin Bailey blade, you don't really need a grinder - just the coarse side of a combo stone, some oil, and some time.

BugBear

 

[lurker]

.............and a honing guide

http://www.proopsbrothers.com/acatalog/ ... ng_71.html