New Proxxon or old Hegner
- Thread starter Foggy58
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Rene Mopper
Established Member
Old Hegner!
I have had a new Proxxon Ds460 but my second hand (2005) Hegner Multicut1 is way better in my opinion.
I have had a new Proxxon Ds460 but my second hand (2005) Hegner Multicut1 is way better in my opinion.
AES
Established Member
Agree with the above (though I've only seen the Proxxon, not used one). Reason? Whilst it looks well built, IF my memory is correct, the Proxxon's overall dimensions - and therefore the work size that can be handled - is much smaller than the Hegner.
IMHO, although Hegner spares prices are outrageous, provided it's in good condition, the Hegner will beat the Proxxon in just about every respect.
AND, if you can find a S/H Hegner in working condition at 250 quid, personally I'd bite the seller's arm off!
IMHO, although Hegner spares prices are outrageous, provided it's in good condition, the Hegner will beat the Proxxon in just about every respect.
AND, if you can find a S/H Hegner in working condition at 250 quid, personally I'd bite the seller's arm off!
scrimper
Established Member
Agree 100% with what the others said. Hegner is a top quality machine built to standards of quality not found in many products nowadays.
With a machine that works so reliably and smoothly you will always get joy and satisfaction in using it whereas with a cheaper machine you will most likely always wish you had gone for something better.
As AES quite correctly says Hegner machines are expensive to buy and the price of spare parts are horrendous but they are also very reliable and used properly should last a lifetime.
Unlike many other machines Hegner saws use induction motors which invariably are not only very smooth and quiet running they are extremely reliable.
Another advantage with buying any Hegner even a brand new one is that if in the unlikely event you don't get on with it you will have no trouble selling it and they hold their value very much too, this is not the case with many cheap poor quality machines.
You can watch my review of the Hegner Scrollsaw here
With a machine that works so reliably and smoothly you will always get joy and satisfaction in using it whereas with a cheaper machine you will most likely always wish you had gone for something better.
As AES quite correctly says Hegner machines are expensive to buy and the price of spare parts are horrendous but they are also very reliable and used properly should last a lifetime.
Unlike many other machines Hegner saws use induction motors which invariably are not only very smooth and quiet running they are extremely reliable.
Another advantage with buying any Hegner even a brand new one is that if in the unlikely event you don't get on with it you will have no trouble selling it and they hold their value very much too, this is not the case with many cheap poor quality machines.
You can watch my review of the Hegner Scrollsaw here
Hegner every time.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I bought a good condition Hegner off ebay and it works a treat, even though it's 20 years old.
Seascaper
Established Member
Hello,
I have a Hegner Multicut 2 and came from an owner who bought it new with only occasional use so in lovely condition. It was £175 and came with a lot of new blades. The Multicut 2 has the larger cast iron worktop, other models have an aluminium worktop. This model also has the speed control under the table which having used it is very useful. Not all models have the speed control and from what I understand not straight forward to change. Because of this some advertised machines are without this as owners are selling them on once they have found one with the speed control. Some have a foot control but it is not something I have needed. It is a very quiet running machine, very well made and one good add on is the quick change blade screw which makes blade changing easy.
Regards
I have a Hegner Multicut 2 and came from an owner who bought it new with only occasional use so in lovely condition. It was £175 and came with a lot of new blades. The Multicut 2 has the larger cast iron worktop, other models have an aluminium worktop. This model also has the speed control under the table which having used it is very useful. Not all models have the speed control and from what I understand not straight forward to change. Because of this some advertised machines are without this as owners are selling them on once they have found one with the speed control. Some have a foot control but it is not something I have needed. It is a very quiet running machine, very well made and one good add on is the quick change blade screw which makes blade changing easy.
Regards
Jaco
Established Member
Hegner! 
I bought a 1982 Polycut and small Multicut off Bid-or-Buy for about GBP200 in 2013
Not sure how many owners before me.
Both machines were stripped down and some parts replaced, had to import from UK. Expensive exercise.
The Polycut motor packed up in 2020 and I sourced a replacement locally at about the quarter of the Hegner price.
I bought a 1982 Polycut and small Multicut off Bid-or-Buy for about GBP200 in 2013
Not sure how many owners before me.
Both machines were stripped down and some parts replaced, had to import from UK. Expensive exercise.
The Polycut motor packed up in 2020 and I sourced a replacement locally at about the quarter of the Hegner price.
Thanks everyone for your advice and comments, really do appreciate it. I’ve seen a couple of used machines and was going to take a look as they are quite close by. Anything to look out for eg.Wobbly arms noise coming from the motor, that sort of thing.
Seascaper
Established Member
Hello
Many are ex school workshops so can be heavily used. Try to find a one owner from new model with the owner present who can show you original receipt and has all the necessary parts such as the blade changing key. There is also a lot of stuff being sold by family members selling their departed owners items. They may not know much about these items. See it running. Walk away if giving bad signals. Good luck and don’t rush into it…..
Regards
Many are ex school workshops so can be heavily used. Try to find a one owner from new model with the owner present who can show you original receipt and has all the necessary parts such as the blade changing key. There is also a lot of stuff being sold by family members selling their departed owners items. They may not know much about these items. See it running. Walk away if giving bad signals. Good luck and don’t rush into it…..
Regards
Rene Mopper
Established Member
And my last advice: Get Pegas sawblades! The difference with many others is that they do saw in a straight direction.
For most of my projects i use No 5 skip reverse blades, but sometimes i use a lower number.
For most of my projects i use No 5 skip reverse blades, but sometimes i use a lower number.
I am now the proud owner of a Hegner Multicut 2S , old but in great nic. Was set up and ready for me to have a try at, I was surprised at just how quiet it was. The seller is in the middle of moving and says he has some bits and pieces for the saw and will post them to me when he finds them. If he’s owt like me he will never find them lol. Thanks for the input and hopefully you will all be there again with advice when I’ve put the blade in upside down and back to front 
Rene Mopper
Established Member
Yes the quietness is surprising.
Let the fun begin, good luck!
PS, a picture of the saw would be nice
Let the fun begin, good luck!
PS, a picture of the saw would be nice
scrimper
Established Member
Excellent work Foggy especially as you have only just started. IMHO lettering is one of the most difficult things to cut out as it always shows if cutting is sloppy, also circles too are hard to keep 'round', in both of these you have excelled yourself.
Your work shows quite a bit of feathering on the cut lines and this may be due to the plywood you used being of poor quality because it shows on the front a little as well as the back (feathering is normal on the back of the work) Using reverse tooth blades will help with the feathering on the back .
One way of reducing feathering to a minimum is to stack cut, even if you only want one copy; if you sandwich the work between two thin pieces of plywood or other wood this will prevent most of the feathering and often negates the need for any sanding.
Keep up the good work, i knew you would love the Hegner, when I bought mine I could not walk past it in the workshop with out giving it a little run.
Your work shows quite a bit of feathering on the cut lines and this may be due to the plywood you used being of poor quality because it shows on the front a little as well as the back (feathering is normal on the back of the work) Using reverse tooth blades will help with the feathering on the back .
One way of reducing feathering to a minimum is to stack cut, even if you only want one copy; if you sandwich the work between two thin pieces of plywood or other wood this will prevent most of the feathering and often negates the need for any sanding.
Keep up the good work, i knew you would love the Hegner, when I bought mine I could not walk past it in the workshop with out giving it a little run.
Jaco
Established Member
Excellent work Foggy especially as you have only just started. IMHO lettering is one of the most difficult things to cut out as it always shows if cutting is sloppy, also circles too are hard to keep 'round', in both of these you have excelled yourself.
Your work shows quite a bit of feathering on the cut lines and this may be due to the plywood you used being of poor quality because it shows on the front a little as well as the back (feathering is normal on the back of the work) Using reverse tooth blades will help with the feathering on the back .
One way of reducing feathering to a minimum is to stack cut, even if you only want one copy; if you sandwich the work between two thin pieces of plywood or other wood this will prevent most of the feathering and often negates the need for any sanding.
Keep up the good work, i knew you would love the Hegner, when I bought mine I could not walk past it in the workshop with out giving it a little run.
Nice
AES
Established Member
Excellent work Foggy especially as you have only just started. IMHO lettering is one of the most difficult things to cut out as it always shows if cutting is sloppy, also circles too are hard to keep 'round', in both of these you have excelled yourself.
Your work shows quite a bit of feathering on the cut lines and this may be due to the plywood you used being of poor quality because it shows on the front a little as well as the back (feathering is normal on the back of the work) Using reverse tooth blades will help with the feathering on the back .
One way of reducing feathering to a minimum is to stack cut, even if you only want one copy; if you sandwich the work between two thin pieces of plywood or other wood this will prevent most of the feathering and often negates the need for any sanding.
Keep up the good work, i knew you would love the Hegner, when I bought mine I could not walk past it in the workshop with out giving it a little run.
@Foggy 58: Agree with scrimper, very good work Sir! Just as he says, lettering of any sort is the most demanding cutting - uneven spaces (even slight) and irregularities in letter shapes, especially letters with "circles (like O) all stand out like a bulldog's whatsits! Hardest is any words with two of the same letter adjacent - e.g. double e.
Other ways to reduce feathering:
1. Try a finer blade (more TPI). It will cut slower but depending on the wood, should reduce/eliminate feathering;
2. Self-adhesive parcel tape on both sides of the job before cutting;
3. Again depending on the wood, pre sanding both surfaces before cutting.
AND you can also make your own "sanding sticks" - cut thin strips of sandpaper and stick them onto a blade, preferably an old blunt blade.
HTH
