New Plane

[Digit]

I tried posting this earlier so if it turns up somewhere else don't be surprised!
This is my latest at attempt at surpassing Philly! :lol: Some hope!
It is a 55 degree cutting angle smoother, I completed it earlier today and tried it out on a piece of Oak where a knot broke the surface. My various 45 degree planes tore it apart, this cut it very cleanly, I can see it being most useful.
Here I'd like to extend my thanks to Philly for advice on the forum and his blog as well, most helpful.

The iron is a salvaged Ohio Tool Co, Thistle Brand and takes a lovely edge.

 

[NeilO]

Roy, dont knock yourself, mate....it got me salivating
and Philly may be master planemaker here (no knocking Philly`s attempts, woud love to own some of his work myself.) but it cost you nothing save a little hard work and patience, and beauty is in the eye of the beholder.. I like it...

 

[brianhabby]

I can only sit here in awe at you guys who do stuff like this.

Well done

regards

Brian

 

[Digit]

Or shucks!

Roy.

 

[George_N]

Nice work Roy. Great to make something so useful. What is the knurled brass knob at the front for.

 

[Digit]

Locks the adjustable mouth in position George, no frog to move, just a wooden infill to vary the mouth width.

Roy.

 

[gidon]

Brilliant Digit - well done!
I recall trying to make a new handle for one of my old planes and failing miserably so not sure what any plane I'd ever try and make would end up like!
Very impressed.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[Digit]

It isn't that difficult Gidon. I make the handles on my router bench using a template then a rounding over bit to finish.

Roy.

 

[woodbloke]

Nice plane. I did something very similar a while back when I made Big Woodie in that I used an adjustable mouth. In the pic below:

...you can see the adjustment plate at the front and the brass insert just in front of the escarpment locks the mouth at any setting - Rob

 

[devonwoody]

Compliments from Devon, will the oak give you problems down the line because of the iron/steel blade?

Perhaps it would pay to leave the blade free of the plane when not in use?

 

[Philly]

Very nice, Roy!
Sounds like it works as good as it looks!
Keep up the good work,
Philly

 

[Digit]

Very nice job Rob, very nice indeed, metal planes seem soulless in comparison don't they? Thanks Philly your blog etc has been a great help, especially on the adjustment procedure.
The wood is well soaked in Linseed Oil DW and rust on the other Oak planes that I've made and soaked in oil haven't been a problem.
Does anyone know if the White Oak that Japanese planes are made of cause problems of rust?

Roy.

 

[OPJ]

Very nice Roy, really like the adjustable mouth idea! Having to adjust the frog on older planes can be a real PITA.

 

[Digit]

Oh I do agree Olly! That was what started me on making my own wooden ones, all of which I have made with adjustable mouths because of that difficulty.

Roy.

 

[Karl]

That looks very nice Roy - what timbers did you use? Oak for the body?

The handle looks particularly comfortable.

Nice work!

Cheers

Karl

 

[Digit]

Going by the way the colour changed after cutting I believe the handle and wedge are Teak Karl. The wood cut a light yellow/brown colour and darkened over night. Linseed oil seemed to make it darker still. I would appreciate anybody's comments on that point. The body is, as you said, made of Oak.
I prefer a full tote as they don't break as easily as the handle type can. One thing I found out some time ago was just how small our grandparents must have been, I used a 19C plane with a full tote and no way could I get my hand into it comfortably. The size on that plane was developed to fit me.
I enjoy planing but blisters aren't fun!

Roy.

 

[tnimble]

Looks very nice Roy (and yours too Rob)

 

[Digit]

Ta!

Roy.