new plane advice

[crackerjack]

First time on this site - it was recommended by a mate. Here goes...

I need to buy a new hand plane. For a while I'vee been buying planed american white oak from my supplier. It is suppossed to have flat faces which it does. Its is supposed to have straight edges which it doesn't. I keep taking it back, they can't get it right so I'm gonna sort it myself.

I don't have a jointer/planer and don't really want to get one.

I've got a festool TS55 which rips it nice and straight and about 95% clean. I want a plane to get the edge 100% clean so I get perfect gluelines.

Initially you might think get a try plane but the edge is already straight. Will a 5 1/2 be okay?

Have been thinking about the Clifton 5 1/2 mentioned in an earlier post.
How does this plane perform in end grain and hard to plane woods. Would a veritas low angle jack be better?

Sorry about all the questions but I need some to steer me in the right direction.

Jack

 

[bodgermatic]

Depending on how long your pieces are, a try or jointer (6 or 7) is your best bet.

 

[Mr Ed]

As a first serious plane purchase something the length of a 5 1/2 is ideal and more than adequate for finishing machine straightened edges. The Veritas LAJ is the same length and would also be a good choice.

Ed

 

[woodbloke]

As a first serious plane purchase something the length of a 5 1/2 is ideal and more than adequate for finishing machine straightened edges. The Veritas LAJ is the same length and would also be a good choice.

Ed

I agree with Ed, a No5 or 5.5 would be a good choice as a first plane. If you want to blow a lot of money then offerings from the 'big three' are worthy of consideration, but a decent second hand No5 (don't buy new) will set you back about 25 groats or so. Have a look at the Ray Isles site for some good second hand ones - Rob

 

[Ironballs]

And I'll chip in with my usual old Record 5.5 on ebay, if you look often enough you can find old (60s and older) models that are well made with excellent laminated blades. For 25-40 quid you can get one that needs a scrub down and lick of paint but will perform as well as a modern version from the big 3

 

[promhandicam]

If you can stretch to £212, Rutlands have the Veritas Low angle jack which is the donkeys conkers and can be used for shooting as well as edge planing. I personally wouldn't bother with a try plane as with the TS55 you will be able to get the edge almost perfect and it will only require a couple of quick swipes to get it flat and smooth.

Steve

 

[woodbloke]

If you can stretch to £212, Rutlands have the Veritas Low angle jack which is the donkeys conkers and can be used for shooting as well as edge planing. I personally wouldn't bother with a try plane as with the TS55 you will be able to get the edge almost perfect and it will only require a couple of quick swipes to get it flat and smooth.

Steve

Steve - I agree with you about the LA jack but it's a lot of wedge...hence my recommendation for something a little lighter on the back pocket. On t'other hand, if the OP has that sort of dosh to splash around, the the LV LA jack is the one to go for IMO - Rob

 

[crackerjack]

hello again and many thanks for your replies

The max length of the boards I need to edge are around 1.7m. Its true that the TS55 gets them bang on straight. So I just need to get them smooth. A couple of shavings at most.

I tried to google Ray Isles to find his site but no joy. Anyone know the web address?

Which is the best plane format though. Conventional or Low angle?

... or what are the advantages of of a low angle Jack plane?

Is the Clifton any good for end grain and difficult grain?

Jack

 

[Smudger]

It's Ray Iles.

http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/index.htm

 

[woodbloke]

hello again and many thanks for your replies

The max length of the boards I need to edge are around 1.7m. Its true that the TS55 gets them bang on straight. So I just need to get them smooth. A couple of shavings at most.

I tried to google Ray Isles to find his site but no joy. Anyone know the web address?

Which is the best plane format though. Conventional or Low angle?

... or what are the advantages of of a low angle Jack plane?

Is the Clifton any good for end grain and difficult grain?

Jack

Have a look here
The plane format is about to open up a whole can worms. Low angle planes (especially the LV LA jack) can be used on a shuting board as well as being very easy to alter the effective pitch of the blade and can also be used on end grain, as of course can a conventional BD plane. The best advice is to try before you buy as you may find that you prefer one over t'other. Some hereabouts like low angle (like me) and others prefer BD - Rob

 

[Ironballs]

If you can get to the Harrogate show in a couple of weeks then you can try all of these planes - and probably get a discount

 

[crackerjack]

Thanks for the links and the comments

I would love to get up to the Harrogate show but we just had a newborn baby so the wife would kill me if I left her and a screaming kid to look after while I go try some planes out.

I really like the sound of the Veritas Low angle jack. I have their low angle block plane and I love it. I'm a late starter to joinery and have never used a conventional plane before. I would have thought the lower centre of gravity of bevel up will make it easier to control when planing an edge.

I'm really tempted to go for this plane as the review I've read are amazing. Also its supposed to be a great all rounder and as I only have the one plane at the moment sounds like it would be a total winner.

Looks like the baby will be short of a few toys for a while!!! Well I could always make some wooden ones. Thats what I'll tell her indoors.

Incedently - anyone using the Veritas low angle jack with the fence that Veritas do. Whats it like

Thanks guys.

 

[woodbloke]

Incedently - anyone using the Veritas low angle jack with the fence that Veritas do. Whats it like

Thanks guys.

The LA jack doesn't have a fitting for a fence...it's the longer LA jointer that will accept it. I have both (but not the fence) and a BU smoother Everything you mention about the LA jack is true but try and get to a show somewhere and have a play...or even another local forum member might let you make some sawdust with one - Rob

 

[crackerjack]

this is the fence I mentioned - i think you can fit it too almost any plane

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41716&cat=1,41182

 

[woodbloke]

this is the fence I mentioned - i think you can fit it too almost any plane

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41716&cat=1,41182

Apologies...I stand corrected. I thought their was a specific fence that only fitted the LV try plane. Tbh, the fence isn't really necessary if you learn how to shute in an edge...helpful, but not really needed - Rob

 

[Ironballs]

This is the kind of thing you can get on ebay, very similar to mine though perhaps in slightly better nick and mine scrubbed up beautifully. This one will have the old laminated blade which is superb

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Record-5-panel-pl ... 45ef065f3b

and here's another nice one

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/stunning-vintage- ... 53ddecc143

 

[Vann]

this is the fence I mentioned - i think you can fit it too almost any plane

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41716&cat=1,41182

Apologies...I stand corrected. I thought their was a specific fence that only fitted the LV try plane. Tbh, the fence isn't really necessary if you learn how to shute in an edge...helpful, but not really needed - Rob

Rob. Lee Valley have a magnetic fence that'll fit most planes, and the screw on one that you're thinking of, which only fits the BUJ.

So you weren't wrong, you were only half right ....?? :shock: :lol:

Cheers, Vann.

 

[crackerjack]

anyone using the magnetic fence?

any good or just a gimmick?

or shall I just use a shooting board?