New Old Inca

[Bm101]

Thanks Marcros, I'll take a look mate.

 

[Moonsafari69]

I'm just reading the blade buying guide at Tuffsaws MoonSafari.

If you're in any doubt give Ian a call at Tuffsaws, he'll be more than happy to run through the blade options and I guarantee you'll end up with the blade you need. Really helpful chap.

 

[Bm101]

Thanks. I've heard only good stuff about both him and his blades. Steve's bandsaw dvds arrived today. I'm going to stick them on when the kids are watching TV as revenge for repeat viewings of Frozen and Minions.

 

[Moonsafari69]

Thanks. I've heard only good stuff about both him and his blades. Steve's bandsaw dvds arrived today. I'm going to stick them on when the kids are watching TV as revenge for repeat viewings of Frozen and Minions.

I'd be interested to hear what you think of the dvd's, I've not seen them myself. If you remember, drop a reply back here to let me know what you think. Cheers.

 

[denboy]

I have fitted my own thrust bearing in the past-they are standard and very easily pressed on. I just took the old one to a local bearings company to get a replacement. (Yellow Pages). Can I just add a tip based on my experience with my INCA saw? It is very easy to under-tighten the rod on which the thrust bearings sit, with the result that twice (!) I have ended up with the teeth stripping out from the blade contacting the guides when the blade moved back too far.
General chit-chat:- Alan Holtham used to reckon that the secret its smooth cutting was that it was, at the time, the only band saw with a direct drive from the motor (no belt and pulley). Also , INCA used to sell as an option, a 1/8" blade and special guides- what they called a fretsaw kit, though I have never seen one myself.
If you are interested in finding out more about your excellent find, I could lend you my copy of the 1980s INCA catalogue, and Alan Holtham's Woodworker review which I've just found. Sadly, I never knowingly throw anything away.

 

[Bm101]

Thanks Denboy, thats just the sort of tip I was after. I'll take care to make sure they are done up well.
I'd be very interested in your catalogue and review if that is ok, it's very kind. I'll send you a pm with my address for when it's convenient I'd be glad to cover any costs and I'll make sure they both get back to you safe and sound. Many thanks.

 

[Bm101]

Thanks. I've heard only good stuff about both him and his blades. Steve's bandsaw dvds arrived today. I'm going to stick them on when the kids are watching TV as revenge for repeat viewings of Frozen and Minions.

I'd be interested to hear what you think of the dvd's, I've not seen them myself. If you remember, drop a reply back here to let me know what you think. Cheers.

Steve's obviously a regular poster on here and valued member soa little awkward... . I have to say I found the first dvd absolute golddust. Well measured, no unnecessary pizazz, or pointless info. Just a lifetime's experience squeezed into a dvd thats easy to watch and easy to follow. After taking the saw to bits gradually and learning intuitively (my favoured way) I found watching the dvd after slotted in well. Many occasions where I went' Ahhhh...That makes sense' For me it was invaluable. One excellent piece of advice after the other. For a seasoned bandsaw user it's harder to answer of course. All i can say is that I have no regrets in any way. I'll wait till the saw is set up to watch the other two i bought but i look forward to them. In answer, I'd reccomend them to anyone but I suppose it depends on your skillset.

 

[Moonsafari69]

One excellent piece of advice after the other. For a seasoned bandsaw user it's harder to answer of course. All i can say is that I have no regrets in any way. I'll wait till the saw is set up to watch the other two i bought but i look forward to them. In answer, I'd reccomend them to anyone but I suppose it depends on your skillset.

That's a fair response Bm101, even with Steve's ears twitching :wink: I do like DVD's as a way of learning, I used to watch lots of woodturning DVD's for similar reasons. Anyway thanks for getting back to me, it is appreciated.

 

[Bm101]

Little update and a puzzled question or two.
I've replaced the bearings, as easy as you said John. One popped off the other had to be taught some manners. (hammer) Both the old ones now sleep with the fishes.
The new long wera allen keys arrived (nice bit of kit) and sorted the issue with the bottom wheel. It wasn't threaded after all thankfully so god only knows what that red gear is.
I had a full weekend off and spent yesterday in blissful shed paradise. Throughout the day I'd stumble back up to the kitchen and in stages throw a few more bits and bobs from the saw in the Rust Remover so I didn't end up with a load of rust free homeless bolts.
So question one. Fences/guides: I have no idea what to do with these two. I've tried various permutations but I can't seem to fit them anywhere. Dense moment!?

Question two. I spent about half an hour trying different variations of google search trying to find what these electrical things are called. The cable 'stays'? The grey plastic bits that keep the cord from pulling out like it's pulled out. The bottom one is broken and I'd like to replace it. Anyone know what they are called?

Question 3. Last one! My saw only has a hex screw on the top to adjust blade tightness. I knocked this out in about 30 seconds on the belt sander to serve. It's almost comically badly done and works while the nut is loose but i will cut the thread shorter and redo with more care if necessary but does anyone know if these are available to buy off the shelf. Again I've looked but can't find anything suitable. I could use a ratchet etc of course but an off the shelf properly sized handle would be nice in the long term if its cheap.

Sorry for idiocy.

(A quick note on bearings for any future inca buyers etc. 608 is the size. The zz means double shielded. The Abec classification seems to be for the grade of bearing. 1 - 9. The web is full of adverts for abec 9 skater bearings that will make you skate faster. But, it doesn't work like that. They will only perform better in the right conditions. In the end after doing some research I just went for some cheap ones. No rubber rings etc. For those that use their saws on a regular basis that want the absolute best, I did find this company in the States that make ceramic bearings and guide blocks. http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/ Too pricey by far for me but maybe it will help someone out?)

Thanks for all the help so far.
Regards
Chris

 

[marcros]

can you take a better pic of the fence bits? I cant quite see, but i think that the angle iron piece goes under the table- you can see it on here. The bolt looks longer than on mine, but may be correct. I dont have the other part on mine, but you have a stop block- I would assume part of the mitre guide?

sorry, missed link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrfCusb9r7s

 

[Bm101]

Thanks for replying bud.
You can click on the pics...
Thanks.
C

 

[MusicMan]

The cable retaining thingies are called grommets.

Keith

 

[n0legs]

Question two. I spent about half an hour trying different variations of google search trying to find what these electrical things are called. The cable 'stays'? The grey plastic bits that keep the cord from pulling out like it's pulled out. The bottom one is broken and I'd like to replace it. Anyone know what they are called?

Chris

Chris it's a cable gland. Easy enough to obtain.
You can get them here:-
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EK251B.html
General purpose, but will do the job just fine.

Here, you can trawl through and possibly find a match:-
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wi ... 4294885295

Or, here. Again general purpose and very easy to get hold of:-
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-co ... of-2/80851

 

[Bm101]

Thanks guys. Much appreciated!

 

[sometimewoodworker]

I have fitted my own thrust bearing in the past-they are standard and very easily pressed on. I just took the old one to a local bearings company to get a replacement. (Yellow Pages). Can I just add a tip based on my experience with my INCA saw? It is very easy to under-tighten the rod on which the thrust bearings sit, with the result that twice (!) I have ended up with the teeth stripping out from the blade contacting the guides when the blade moved back too far.
General chit-chat:- Alan Holtham used to reckon that the secret its smooth cutting was that it was, at the time, the only band saw with a direct drive from the motor (no belt and pulley). Also , INCA used to sell as an option, a 1/8" blade and special guides- what they called a fretsaw kit, though I have never seen one myself.
If you are interested in finding out more about your excellent find, I could lend you my copy of the 1980s INCA catalogue, and Alan Holtham's Woodworker review which I've just found. Sadly, I never knowingly throw anything away.

FWIW The fretsaw kit is on my website
http://meekings.selfip.com/nui/Groups-o ... ndsaw.html

Together with the sanding kit.

 

[Bm101]

http://meekings.selfip.com/nui/Groups-o ... ndsaw.html

Well that's one of the guides sorted, thank you. How did I not see how it fits there? #-o I still have no clue what it's for though. The one with the handle still baffles me. Please don't laugh too much, it's my first bandsaw.
Going to have to get it down the shed soon. It's still in bits on the kitchen counter. The Mrs keeps saying stuff like 'Do you need a hand to move that down to the shed my sweet, arrow of my heart, my spring budding Rowan tree, my storm and my shelter? ' Not precisely in those exact words but that's the gist of it I reckon. Possibly.

 

[powertools]

In truth I have my Inca saw from new and have never understood what those bits are for.

 

[Bm101]

In truth I have my Inca saw from new and have never understood what those bits are for.

=D>
Thankyou.

 

[Bod]

The second "fence" is most likely for a drill set up rather than a saw.
The idea is, for repeat holes in production for many identical parts.
the first stop is for hole 1, second stop is for hole 2 etc.
The work piece slides into postion against stop 1, hole drilled. Work piece slides against stop 2, hole drilled etc.
Your fence only has one stop, but others are/were available. I've seen the same setup on chop saws, for repeat production work.
Yours, like my two are quite light weight, not really up to workplace strength, but fine for hobby use.
Flip-stop, is what I know them by. Flip up when not needed, flip down into use.

Bod
PS
http://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/cont ... /CJnew.pdf
Page 3 left hand side, show a commercial varient.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Little update and a puzzled question or two.
I've replaced the bearings, as easy as you said John. One popped off the other had to be taught some manners. (hammer) Both the old ones now sleep with the fishes.
The new long wera allen keys arrived (nice bit of kit) and sorted the issue with the bottom wheel. It wasn't threaded after all thankfully so god only knows what that red gear is.
I had a full weekend off and spent yesterday in blissful shed paradise. Throughout the day I'd stumble back up to the kitchen and in stages throw a few more bits and bobs from the saw in the Rust Remover so I didn't end up with a load of rust free homeless bolts.
So question one. Fences/guides: I have no idea what to do with these two. I've tried various permutations but I can't seem to fit them anywhere. Dense moment!?

Hi Chris
I can't see the Pics on my iPad so i am replying from by iMac

the one with the long slot is a secondary fence for thin stock. You can see it in use in my pics in the URL i gave. The other is an extension for the miter fence with a flag stop for repeat cutting of the same length parts. The two pins on the back of the miter fence are where the horizontal and vertical cutouts engage. It is very quick to put on and take off.

I lost my angle aluminium bar in the move to Thailand, so if you could measure yours accurately i may be able to buy some angle and replace it.