New member advice on bandsaw (update)

[pipfootball]

Hi everyone. Have just registered hoping to get some help or advice. Firstly I would like to say that i have a bit of experience with woodworking having made various things including a 3x41/2 metre wooden gazebo most of which was hand sawn. The thing is having lost my job before Xmas last year I was looking for smaller items to make at home to sell on. I have been looking at bandsaws and have the oppurtunity to buy one. It is a Metabo Bas 317 Precision. I have not used one before so was wondering if anyone could give me any info or advice. Sorry for going on a bit. Thanks. Phil. 8)

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Phil
Welcome to the madhouse.
Tip Number 1. Buy your blades from Ian John at Tuffsaws, [email protected]. Tell him what you are planning to do and he will sell you top quality blades at a very reasonable price.
If you do a quick search on here for posts about bandsaws, you will see that Everyone endorses Tuffsaws.
Let us know what you end up making, will you. Remember, the woodworkers most important tool is his camera
Steve

 

[pipfootball]

Thanks Steve. Have read a lot about Tuffsaws and would be getting blade/blades from them as saw I'm considering buying as no blade fitted and have subsequently not seen it working although it appears cheap for what guy is wanting for it £100. Am not quite sure about actual bandsaw though. Have checked through postings on metabo 317 and not found a great deal about it.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Well bandsaws are pretty straightforward machines, but can be a devil to set up properly if you don't know what you are doing. But provided that the bearings are sound, the drive pulley is properly driving the lower wheel, the wheels are aligned properly and the blade tensioned and supported properly, all should be well.
None of the above is difficult to do. But they have to be set properly and in the right order for you to get the best out of it.
I'm not familiar what that particular machine, but Metabo is a mainstream manufacturer so it won't be anything obscure.
I'd definitely ask to see it running, though, before parting with your £100.
S

 

[pipfootball]

Will certainly checkout machine first. Hoping to make jewelry box that I have just watched video for on youtube and will post wtih progress.

 

[SurreyHills]

With this particular model check that the fence is OK. It's a bit flimsy at the best of times and if it's been abused could be an issue. The only other thing I can think of to check is the holder for the bearing guides is an aluminium block that can crack and is expensive to replace- you need to replace the whole assembly rather than just the block.

At £100 if it's in good condition then it should be a good buy.

 

[pipfootball]

Thanks Andy, will check that out. The machine itself looks like it has had very little use. Is it both holders for bearing guides that are aluminium? Thanks. Phil

 

[SurreyHills]

No it's just the top bearing assembly you need to look at.

 

[pipfootball]

Once again thanks Andy. Just got to get enough money to buy and get a couple of blades from Tuff Saw. Hard times at minute. Cheers Phil.

 

[Oryxdesign]

Buy Steve Maskerys DVD on bandsaws, I believe it is Workshop Essentials 4, it is brilliant and will save you a lot of heartache trying to set up your machine.

 

[pipfootball]

Thanks for that. You would not believe the amount of time I've spent trawling the net for info on this machine and found virtuaally nothing. I'm beginning to wonder if other people know something i don't.

 

[monkeybiter]

There's a good article in the latest Good Woodworking on setting up a bandsaw, by somebody called Steve Maskery. :wink:

 

[Steve Maskery]

So I gather. It is printed without my permission.

 

[pipfootball]

Cheeky persons (for want of a better name)

 

[monkeybiter]

So I gather. It is printed without my permission.

Perhaps you could utilise your 'regular current contributor' status to boost your advertising/sales. I must admit that as you've got two articles in the current issue I had wondered if you'd worked out some sort of compensating compromise.

It'd be a shame if you couldn't find a way to turn it to your advantage.

Sorry pipfootball for the hijack.

 

[Steve Maskery]

We are coming to a resolution, I hope.

 

[pipfootball]

Don't worry about hijack. If it helps someone then all the better.

 

[Wood Monkey]

Hi Phil

I have the EB BAS316 which is the older version of the Metabo BAS 317.

At the time I bought this it seemed a good compromise of size, spec and cost. I waded straight in without really seeking impartial advice about what would be best for my budget and planned use.

For a long long time I've found the saw to be quite frustrating. I've had it working well, but next time I've turned to use it it's been all over the place. For a long time I didn't bother with it and it just stood in my workshop gathering dust...

Then one day I had a need to re-saw some 3 inch oak and thought I'd give it another try. I spent some time fettling the saw and put in a new blade which I had picked up some time earlier. With the fettling, new blade and fence compensation for drift.... hey presto. A revelation.

I still think my saw could be better. I'm planning to fit some upgraded guides (which I believe the 317 already has) and I intend getting the table skimmed as the 316 has this annoying 'textured' surface (not sure about the 317). I think I may have a good look at improving the dust extraction to be more direct around the cutting zone but this isn't essential. I'm also in the process of ordering a range of TuffSaw blades - I've heard a million times that this is essential.!

The biggest improvement I've seen is to run the saw on the slower of the two speeds available. It just seems to work better this way probably because the better torque of the lower speed gearing gives the motor an easier time.

I've considered selling it in favour of a bigger machine as I have more space now and I've a desire for better re-saw capacity, but for now it's fit for purpose.

Jon

 

[pipfootball]

Thanks Jon,
Great to get some help. Regarding the question of speed which i was intending to ask about. Is it a matter of personal preference or is the lower speed better and also having not looked closely at the machine I intend to buy is it easy to change speed?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Lower speeds are generally used for more difficult materials, such as metal or plastic, where overheating is an issue. Speed change is usually just a matter of slackening off the motor, slipping a pulley and re-tensioning. Personally I've never had to drop the speed, but just use whatever gives the best results with your material and blade.
S