New Handles for Old....

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Colin C":3v94lcit said:
MikeW
Dont start me off again :roll: :wink:
As people are posting pic's of they saw handles ( hopeing Philly does not mind :whistle: )
Here is one I did a few months ago, after Alf's
RIMG0106.jpg
Wonderful, Colin! Simply beautiful.

I love notches at the bottom bridge. Sets them off in a nice way. What kind of wood?

Take care, Mike
 
Thanks Mike

I take that means you like it :D, I also did have a few for inspiration ( from you that is ) :roll: .

Before I forget #-o , the wood is some old walnut from an old dresser top ( well part of it ).
 
I am glad I did it as it is ssooo comfortable, I wll do it to other handles if they are not like that :)
 
Mike

That's brilliant advice. Many thanks.

Somewhere I've got a small offcut of what I believe is real Cuban mahogany which just might be big enough.....

Regards.
 
Evergreen":2c8v6xtf said:
Somewhere I've got a small offcut of what I believe is real Cuban mahogany which just might be big enough.....

Regards.

If it is you are a very lucky man as it is very nice to use and I have some small bits left from some jobs I have done 8-[ :)
 
You can take the set, or nearly all of it, out of the blade .....

Soo ... you don't advise using an angle grinder for this task then ? :shock:

Seriously Mike, that is a simply wonderful tip!

Regards from Perth

Derek (resisting the urge to post more saw handles)
 
You can take the set, or nearly all of it, out of the blade .....
Soo ... you don't advise using an angle grinder for this task then ? :shock:
Nah, everyone knows one shold use a stationary belt sander!

It's an old practice. I probably learned it from my grandfather or great uncle. I know Harry Strasil does the same/similar thing iirc.

It's kind of a good way to ensure a fairly accurate set. I've used various paper to achieve different sets before. The big give a heck is that the vise jaws close evenly. A lot of modern vises I've seen don't. And it's important to squeeze slowly. And of course, don't try it on a really old saw nor one you are not prepared to redo teeth if more than one or two bust. Those are disclaimers, of course. I have not ever had one snap.

Oh, Evergreen...Cuban! Wonderful wood. None like it, really. It's been years since I played with any. I can remember oiling and polishing my first box I made from some off-cuts that came from an older cabinet maker. Ah, memories.

Take care, Mike
 
MikeW":1iy5m08e said:
lots of useful stuff
But what he meant to say was this is exactly why you need a wide range of saws from which to choose - none of that fiddling about with set when you can just try a different saw... :wink:

Possibly a good time to mention (again) a tip for cutting the kerf if you're as inaccurate with a back saw as I am. Clamp your designated kerf-cutting saw on a spacer on a flat surface so the kerf comes at the mid point of your blank. Push blank to and fro while sliding along flat surface and your kerf is automatically centred and straight. For the purposes of the demo the handle blank is an off-cut with directional arrows drawn on it, but you get the gist. :wink:

sawhandlekerf001.JPG


sawhandlekerf002.JPG


Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":1yw6z50e said:
Possibly a good time to mention (again) a tip for cutting the kerf if you're as inaccurate with a back saw as I am. Clamp your designated kerf-cutting saw on a spacer on a flat surface so the kerf comes at the mid point of your blank. Push blank to and fro while sliding along flat surface and your kerf is automatically centred and straight. For the purposes of the demo the handle blank is an off-cut with directional arrows drawn on it, but you get the gist. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

Excellent technique Alf, That tip should go in the top tip book. :) 8)
 
Alf":2g1nsxro said:
MikeW":2g1nsxro said:
lots of useful stuff
But what he meant to say was this is exactly why you need a wide range of saws from which to choose - none of that fiddling about with set when you can just try a different saw... :wink:
Dang, I knew I forgot something!

But then, which came first, the chicken or the egg?

Take care, Mike
 
Oooooo, I like that tip, Alf, because it's (virtually) foolproof.

When it comes to sawing to a line, I definitely have my good days and my bad days. Trouble is, I don't know which kind of day it's going to be in advance!

Regards.
 
mike you must make up your mind, we need to understand whether
you deal with bears, chickens , pizza, or beer, this is getting really
confusing :lol: :whistle: :eek:ccasion5:

alf now why did i not get taught that at school??? :?

shame we can't cut all our wood that way :twisted:

paul :wink:
 
Philly":e0ff2yik said:
Paul
You kinda can-it's called the tablesaw :twisted:
Philly :D
Or a bandsaw.

Actually, if the kerf is from .030" to .045" for the saw blade to fit, I have BS blades to cut those kerfs. But I also cheat and use a vertical mill for those less than .030". At least to establish it. They are finished off--what the sized slotting cutters cannot reach--with a handsaw.
you must make up your mind, we need to understand whether
you deal with bears, chickens , pizza, or beer, this is getting really
confusing
Hmm. I see how it could be confusing. Worse yet, I recently dealt with a beer drinking bear which ate a chicken after it pecked at the pizza...

Take care, Mike
 
and you guys expect us quiet englishmen to travel to the wilds
of seattle?????? :lol: :lol:

actually it brings a whole new meaning to healthy eating plans
i guess :lol: :? kind of reminds me of the old burl ives song about
the old lady who swallowed a fly, etc :roll: :roll:

phil, using a table saw yes, but surely that means reducing or removing
the riving knife????????? :twisted: or of course doing what bean has
and reduce the riving knife height.

paul :wink:
 
Alf":3i305vmn said:
MikeW":3i305vmn said:
lots of useful stuff

Possibly a good time to mention (again) a tip for cutting the kerf if you're as inaccurate with a back saw as I am. Clamp your designated kerf-cutting saw on a spacer on a flat surface so the kerf comes at the mid point of your blank.

It is rather important that the spacer is parallel :)

Good tip! I made a rather fiddly variation on a scratch stock - sort of a plough plane, but with a 1" section of saw for a blade. I have various scraps of saw with varying teeth and set to make varying slots.

But your way is easier (*) - although I think some care would be required in use, since there appears to be a risk of cutting your hands on the saw blade.

BugBear

(*) although my way involves accumulating more tools :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top