New Handles for Old....

[Philly]

Hi Folks
Been kinda busy in the 'shop making replacement handles for a couple of back saws. Inspired by recent discussion (and "The Wenz" super-saws) I thought I would "upgrade" a couple of half decent tenon saws I picked up at second hand shops.

The smaller one is Black Walnut, the larger Maple. It was fairly easy work, copying most of the details from the existing handles makes life straight-forward.

As you can see, the old handles were not exactly "works-of-art" so it was worth the effort. And they feel SO much better to use.
So do have a go yourself, you can use up those interesting off-cuts you've been hoarding :wink:
Cheers
Philly

 

[Anonymous]

HOW DO YOU WORK SO QUICKLY????????????

More great work and by the look of it well worth the effort. And you haven't mentioned the cyclone yet :wink:

 

[MikeW]

HOW DO YOU WORK SO QUICKLY????????????

Ain't that the truth! Puts me to shame. And I don't even have a real job

Take care, Mike

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hey, nice one Philly. The handles really look comfortable - no straights or edges.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Frank D.]

Oooh,
Saw fever over here in the UK for sure. Nice job Philly!

 

[Paul Chapman]

Really nice, Phil =D> =D>

Paul (who won't mention the cyclone in case your wife's listening 8-[ 8-[ )

 

[Philly]

Thanks Chaps! It was a fun little project.
Thanks for not mentioning the Cyclone, too :lol:
Cheers
Philly
P.s. And Mike-"not got a real job"? Who you kidding Sawmeister :wink:

 

[Chris Knight]

Philly,
It is disgusting - the way you shame the rest of us. Fortunately, I can at least claim I have no need of saw handles or a cyclone (I only have decent new saws and have no space for a cyclone :wink

 

[whybob71]

They are very nice!!!

I did the same with some of my old and new saws. This is the last I made. The saw is a Crown DT, the wood is bubinga

 

[Paul Chapman]

Blimey, everyone's at it :lol: Very nice, whybob =D>

Paul

 

[Ian Dalziel]

I noticed youve gone for open handles designs, :? any particular reason or just asthetics....nice job...

when are you starting your first infill

I

 

[Alf]

I noticed youve gone for open handles designs, :? any particular reason or just asthetics....

Easier to do? :lol: Cynical, moi?

Nice job, Philly. =D> Sigh, I have a sudden desire to make another saw handle now, dammit. ](*,)

Cheers, Alf

 

[GEPPETTO]

Hi Why,
it's a very accurate job .

chaps how many jobs you intrigue me to do in the future :lol:

Cheers, Gabriele :wink:

 

[Pete W]

how many jobs you intrigue me to do

Poetically put, and a phrase that should be carved above the door of every workshop, I think

 

[whybob71]

I have made both open and close pistol grip handles; usually I prefere open handles for 8"-10" saws and close handles for longer saw; indeed, it's easier to make them open style.

 

[MikeW]

I have made both open and close pistol grip handles; usually I prefere open handles for 8"-10" saws and close handles for longer saw; indeed, it's easier to make them open style.

Well, I wasn't going to post in this thread. I was going to start another and found Phil's...but as long as others have and the mention of closed handles on longer saws...

Here's the Kenyon sash from the Seaton chest...14", 13 ppi rip, German Beech...

Take care, Mike

 

[engineer one]

gosh darn who to swear at first philly for doing the handles so
quickly, or you mike for making them so nicely on a sort of
production basis #-o ](*,)

how do you find the time either of you? and i've even seen philly's
workshop :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Colin C]

MikeW
Dont start me off again :roll: :wink:
As people are posting pic's of they saw handles ( hopeing Philly does not mind )
Here is one I did a few months ago, after Alf's

 

[Evergreen]

Hi Guys

Can I ask a really basic, muppet-type question, please?

Can you use a saw to cut the kerf in its own new handle? What I mean is that I've only got one backsaw and if I use that to cut the kerf in a new handle for it, won't it be too wide?

I don't have a band saw and the only saw I've got that's really thin is a Japanese pullsaw which is probably too thin!

My backsaw is made by Slack, Sellars & Co and is currently fitted with a very naff 1970s handle. You know the type, when everyone was trying to be "modern".

I'm very impressed with these beautiful traditional handles that you guys have made and I'm getting inspired to have a go myself!

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[MikeW]

Can you use a saw to cut the kerf in its own new handle? What I mean is that I've only got one backsaw and if I use that to cut the kerf in a new handle for it, won't it be too wide?

Yes...and yes.

You can take the set, or nearly all of it, out of the blade and use it. Without out doing so, yes, it'll be wider than you probably need.

I would measure the thickness of the saw blade destined for a new handle, as well as the amount of set, using a dial caliper and then check the Japanese saw.

One issue would be removing some of the present set, or rather the means to do so. If the set is very wide, stoning it out will only serve to narrow the teeth to the point of being weak. If you can do the following, it works well.

If you have a good machinists vise with smooth jaws--which you can make yourself--and close evenly top to bottom, side to side, you can use it to lessen the set very evenly.

You then take a thin sheet of paper, maybe newsprint, measure it and if it is only a couple thousandths thick you can drape it over the teeth so that there is only one layer up the sides and tape it in place. Place the toothline about in the center of the jaws and crank it down. The tip of the teeth will "bite" through the paper, but the paper on the sides of the saw will prevent the teeth from being bent further than the thickness of the paper. Loosen the vise, move the saw and repeat. You may have to do this a couple times as the teeth will spring back a little.

btw, one can do this with a saw you find in the wild which has too much set. It is a low-threat way to lessen the set as most likely the teeth will not brake in this manner--unless the set is really heavy.

Anyway, scribe the center line using a marking gauge from one side making sure it is nearly centered. Mark again from the other side and when you saw, saw between them. In fact, we usually mark shy of the center from both sides so we can always see the line on both sides as we saw.

Also, after you cut out the blank for the handle, bring the blank down to almost the proper thickness, but not all the way. That way if the kerf is a little to one side you can sand or otherwise take some of the thickness from the thick side and the blade kerf will then be centered, or nearly so.

Saw slow and watch the lines on both ends of the saw. Hard to correct once it goes awry.

Take care, Mike