LN
Where did you get your walnut from? I have an upcoming project and need about 5 cuft, and what is the quality like?
Where did you get your walnut from? I have an upcoming project and need about 5 cuft, and what is the quality like?
New Cupboard Project .....Coming to the finish
- Thread starter Lord Nibbo
- Start date
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Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Waka":iomg03ij said:
I got this lot from Atkins & Cripps, I ordered 1" but it was actually 28mm it's not as good as the last lot from them when I made the drawer unit. The best I've had was from James Latham, I guess that contained less than 10% sapwood but that was all more than 2" thick and of course for that thickness it cost a lot more.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
So the real woodwork really begins here in my view. Starting with a good scrape, it gets a much better finish than sanding.
A bit of TLC for the end panels too.
90deg cut, I had to break out my big sled for this, my normal panel sledge wasn't big enough.
Both end panels got mitred down one side only but both were mitered to length to ensure they were exactly the same length
The top piece and both the end panels get their final edges mitred all together to ensure they are exactly the same width
The top mitred on all four edges and both ends mitred on three edges
Both end panels have 3/8" deep 1/2" wide stopped dado's for the bottom board
The top upside down is placed on the cramps, they are pulled up so the are just snug to the end of the mitres
The vertical clamps do all the work, the horizontal clamps stop the side panel from spreading
The two stays make sure it's at 90deg and fillets for added strength
A bit of TLC for the end panels too.
90deg cut, I had to break out my big sled for this, my normal panel sledge wasn't big enough.
Both end panels got mitred down one side only but both were mitered to length to ensure they were exactly the same length
The top piece and both the end panels get their final edges mitred all together to ensure they are exactly the same width
The top mitred on all four edges and both ends mitred on three edges
Both end panels have 3/8" deep 1/2" wide stopped dado's for the bottom board
The top upside down is placed on the cramps, they are pulled up so the are just snug to the end of the mitres
The vertical clamps do all the work, the horizontal clamps stop the side panel from spreading
The two stays make sure it's at 90deg and fillets for added strength
LN
You've made some good progress today, coming together nicely.
You've made some good progress today, coming together nicely.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
WiZeR":xd3ysssn said:Looking good LN. Do you have enough clamps?
:lol:
Yes it's on wheels, it doubles as a support table for the saw, thats when it's not piled up with tools and rubbish :lol:
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Waka":fw8xc7uh said:
Thank you Waka, been busy tonight searching hinges out. Looked at what Philly used on his cabinet, I just can't bring myself to payout what would total more than £80 though :?
So I've looked at Soss and Barrell/Cylinder hinges on Isaac Lords site. I've ordered these 
plus a couple of these stays for the drop down door
:lol:
LN
Those hinges are really nice, I used them some years ago, relatively easy to fit as well.
Those hinges are really nice, I used them some years ago, relatively easy to fit as well.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Both end are on, the bottom has been cut to size and routed out for the divider panels which have also been cut ready to fit. I still need to rout out the the underside of the top for the dividers but I have already marked out where to cut.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
The unit is still upside down. The bottom and dividing panels get fitted. The bottom is glued into the dado for only about five inches at the front, to add strength a fillet has been added near the front edge on both ends.
The left hand (remember it's upside down) face piece gets glued on, no pins (my names not Norm)
At the rear a slotted block has been glued to the end panel but screwed to the bottom, the slot will allow any movement of the end panel.
Same procedure for the right hand face piece.
Here is a better pic of the left hand piece after the glue had gone off.
The left hand (remember it's upside down) face piece gets glued on, no pins (my names not Norm)
At the rear a slotted block has been glued to the end panel but screwed to the bottom, the slot will allow any movement of the end panel.
Same procedure for the right hand face piece.
Here is a better pic of the left hand piece after the glue had gone off.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
The unit the correct way up but I had to screw some planks on the bottom temporarily as it’s longer than my assembly table. All the face pieces fitted, just the doors to do on the front now. I might start the back and leave the doors to the very last thing. Whatever I cant do anymore until at least Sunday
lucky9cat
Established Member
Looking good, LN, looking good. I like the way the mitered edges come together in the front corners. A couple of questions about the miters. After cutting them on the saw do you then clean them up with a plane or something? Also, I don't see any mention of biscuits or any other device apart from the blocks when gluing miter to miter; is there any?
I also like the way you controlled the boards with the long clamps when gluing the top to the sides. Nice tip.
Ted
I also like the way you controlled the boards with the long clamps when gluing the top to the sides. Nice tip.
Ted
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
lucky9cat":2n32e35r said:
Re: Planing, Only if I can see any saw marks, if it needs planing I run it over my planer set at 45deg.
I don't use biscuits they aren't accurate enough they impede getting it perfect IMHO.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
A close up of the mitred joints on the front face.
Starting on the back panel. The top rail is glued into place and the side pieces are ready to glue up, all have a dado/groove on the inside face for fitting the panels.
Gluing the side pieces on.
The unit now lying on it's front. The lower rail is only dry fitted so I could measure it up for the two middle pieces. The lower rail is made with floating tenons and the two middle pieces will be fixed on the same way.
Centre stiles cut with floating tenons and glued in place
Stiles dry fitted
Boards resawn for back panels to 1/2" thick
All the boards have been thicknessed and have had any sapwood cut off then they were edged and glued up for the three panels.
Starting on the back panel. The top rail is glued into place and the side pieces are ready to glue up, all have a dado/groove on the inside face for fitting the panels.
Gluing the side pieces on.
The unit now lying on it's front. The lower rail is only dry fitted so I could measure it up for the two middle pieces. The lower rail is made with floating tenons and the two middle pieces will be fixed on the same way.
Centre stiles cut with floating tenons and glued in place
Stiles dry fitted
Boards resawn for back panels to 1/2" thick
All the boards have been thicknessed and have had any sapwood cut off then they were edged and glued up for the three panels.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
The panels have been sized and fitted, that completes the back.
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
View of the back paneling
Better view of the front
Doors glued up just need cutting to size. The grain will run Vertical when fitted.
To reduce warping should I reinforce the door as in version A or B?
Version A would be flush with the face and glued only in the centre with screws at the ends.
Version B would be inset 3/8" into the door but would stick out 3/8".
Or should I risk fixing the door with no reinforcement and hope it don't warp?
Better view of the front
Doors glued up just need cutting to size. The grain will run Vertical when fitted.
To reduce warping should I reinforce the door as in version A or B?
Version A would be flush with the face and glued only in the centre with screws at the ends.
Version B would be inset 3/8" into the door but would stick out 3/8".
Or should I risk fixing the door with no reinforcement and hope it don't warp?
Shultzy
Established Member
This months GW has a large table which has angle iron sunk flush into the underside and screwed through elongated hole to stop potential warping. May be another option.
Oryxdesign
Established Member
Really nice work, I made some very similar bedside cabinets a while back in ABW veneer, I've been toying with making something larger and I think you've given me the kick I need.
seanybaby
Established Member
Very nice LN
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Been out of the workshop with a bad back again but today managed to get out there again but all I managed to do was........
........
.... Drop a right b@llock I had sized to fit the two outer doors and proceeded to fit the barrel hinges, this type
I even made a jig to do it. So I drilled the two outer doors then the corresponding holes in the cabinet everything lined up perfectly well I got the first door on and two more of the hinges fitted in to the other door. It was at this point I went to open the door already fitted and it would only open about 30 degrees So for the next few hours were spent drilling out the hinges and boy they were tight :evil: So after re plugging the holes I'm back to where I was this morning and I've had to order a larger size set of hinges
........
.... Drop a right b@llock I had sized to fit the two outer doors and proceeded to fit the barrel hinges, this type
I even made a jig to do it. So I drilled the two outer doors then the corresponding holes in the cabinet everything lined up perfectly well I got the first door on and two more of the hinges fitted in to the other door. It was at this point I went to open the door already fitted and it would only open about 30 degrees
So for the next few hours were spent drilling out the hinges and boy they were tight :evil: So after re plugging the holes I'm back to where I was this morning and I've had to order a larger size set of hinges 
