These pencils have a more wallet friendly version as well with all the same features, and also can be bought with coloured wax leads for dark timbers.I got a new pencil with my track saw
I didnt automatically work out it was a pencil and a holder and spent a few minutes clicking it and turning it, wondering how the lead came out. I thought it was faulty til i pulled on the end and revelation
Seems an ideal bit of kit, built in sharpener, and you clip the holder onto something so its always there when you need it.
A bit pricey as pencils go, but it was free so no complaints..View attachment 140844
Definitely off topic but I must ask what a 'DRAW' is ? If you mean one of those slidy in & out wooden things with a knob handle etc, I've always known them as DRAWERS (a descriptor that apppears in furniture books that go back hundreds of years) ...Don't want to be a party pooper but if he's the sort of guy losing his pencils will he ever put them back in the draw? I must admit I do think the idea of using that otherwise wasted space is great and very ingenious. I'll have to investigate my machine tools.
I stand corrected. A brain f&%/ on my part.Definitely off topic but I must ask what a 'DRAW' is ? If you mean one of those slidy in & out wooden things with a knob handle etc, I've always known them as DRAWERS (a descriptor that apppears in furniture books that go back hundreds of years) ...
There was a young lady from Chester who managed to lose her draws! --- I know it's rubbish!What are these 'Chester Draws' that are so often advertised for sale or free, on recycling sites?
Not sure how much interest most folks might have about pencil making,If you are interested in pencils and are passing nearby, there is the Derwent pencil museum in Keswick.
Until I went there and found out lots of stuff about how and where they are made, I had thought they all came from Pennsylvania USA where locals spent hours drilling small holes down dowel rods. But no.
Not sure how much interest most folks might have about pencil making,
I know @D_W has made his own, so might as well post a recent highland woodworker episode.
Ive got the tracer version, takes 3mm leads / wax, pencil sharpener built in to holder. Its reasonably good, works well.... and durableThese pencils have a more wallet friendly version as well with all the same features, and also can be bought with coloured wax leads for dark timbers.
As in make your own leads? I guess if you are making a pencil, you might as well go the whole hog!but have shelved things for now until I get something that can fire pencil leads
As in make your own leads? I guess if you are making a pencil, you might as well go the whole hog!
I tried to use them until I discovered that ordinary pencils are much more convenient, much cheaper and more practical in a workshop environment.Yes I find mechanical pencils to be the most useful, a lot people appear to overlook them for some reason.
I've become warmer to those retractable pencils now I've figured out I like to keep my lines on the work rather than removing the pencil/knife mark.I used them a lot until I discovered that ordinary pencils are much more convenient, much cheaper and more practical in a workshop environment.
One exception is when it's handy to have a mechanical pencil through a hole in a lath, e.g. for the purpose of drawing a circle.
Buy different brands for different grades - then they are conveniently colour coded.
Have them all over the place as "The Workshop Hack" suggests.
Are we going to have a pencil sharpening thread?
Because the usual way of achieving the same end is to turn/twist a pencil as you draw straight lines against an edge, to equalise wear and keep the cone centralised. It's standard practice and one of the first things you'd learn as an architectural student, after pencil sharpening!Simple idea of having a single bevel instead of a coned end,
so the outside of the line always remains the same, regardless of wear.
Surprised that this isn't more prolific, as it makes sense.
Clearly you didn't watch Jack's video Jacob.Because the usual way of achieving the same end is to turn/twist a pencil as you draw straight lines against an edge, to equalise wear and keep the cone centralised. It's standard practice and one of the first things you'd learn as an architectural student, after pencil sharpening!
Architectural drawing implements, including mechanical pencils, just not sturdy enough for the work bench but "the importance of proper layout with geometry" is something which all woodworkers would learn in the old days: basically the layout of "the rod" for starters, but a lot of more complicated stuff, as can be seen in all the old text books on joinery and building.
Enter your email address to join: