NEEDED. Patiant people to advise on w/shop planing and build

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Hi there,
If you go to abebooks (not the American one) you will find a number of listings for the following small book.

Setting Up Your Home Workshop (ISBN: 0852429096)
Bray, Stan
Price: £ 19.00


I assure you that, although this book is aimed at 'engineering-types', there are loads of ideas, and constructional notes that you will find invaluable. There's a good section on the legal side of building a workshop, but maybe some of it will be out of date.
I've had my copy for a few years now, and I never realised it was worth almost £20.00!!!

Whatever you build, make sure it's as big as you can afford, and don't forget, you might want some heavy machinery one day, so plan a floor that will take the weight.

Good luck
JW
 
Hi everyone.

Sorry I have not replied for so long, the wife went to the states to see her son, been on my own.

I have finished sorting out the wardrobe, and will soon start on the shed/workshop soonish. I think I will go along with Shultzy's idea with the base and floor. My only question is, wont the hardboard shrivel up and die after a rather short time, or is there a way on treating it?

When it comes to laying the base plate, how do I lay the long sides. Do I just but the ends together, or is there another way to join them?

I'll see if I can edit this with a drawing to explain it better.

ATB Gary.

Here's the pic:-

Base.png


I hope this makes more sense.

ATB Gary.
 
garywayne, not sure that the hardboard will decay as it isn't going to get wet as its on a DPC and under the floor. If you are worried just paint a preservative on it.

As your workshop is going to be 10x26, I would make the floor frames 10' x 8'8" (easier to move on your own) and then bolt or screw together. This eliminates the need for scarf joints.

This will be my floor (16' x 8'), viewed from the underside, without the hardboard on, but with the floorboards. You can see the two frame joins in the middle

 
Hi Shultzy.

Thanks for putting my mind at rest.

Good idea of building the floor in sections.

Just to be an even bigger pain in the arris, I just might be having an "L" shaped workshop. Tonight My wife and I are going to finalise the position and size. I estimate it to be about 22' to 28' long by 12' wide, and the top section about 16' to 18' long by 12' wide. It all depends on how much of the garden I can talk my wife out of. Once that has been sorted, then I can finalise the plan and start building. I must admit I'm not looking forward to doing this with my gammy leg, but I am certainly looking forward to the experience.

Thanks again for your time and patients.
ATB Gary.
 
garywayne":tx57ojrd said:
I must admit I'm not looking forward to doing this with my gammy leg, but I am certainly looking forward to the experience

In that case, start by building a good selection of trestles, and get some scaffold planks across to give you a working platform. No point picking everything up over and over again. You can build the whole lot at a good working height. I ended up chaining my Mitre Saw and my compressor to a tree, rather than carry them up and down each time, merely throwing some tarpaulin over each evening.

Consider getting some assistance, family & friends can easily be persuaded, especially if its only an hour or two, like moving timber from a driveway to a working area. I've asked my neighbour to help on a couple of occasions, when you just "need" a two man lift, and it only takes 10 minutes. If you only ask friends/neighbours occasionally, then it doesn't become a burden. You can then spend lots of time in between doing preperation, cutting, screwing together etc.

I also got some hired help on two occasions now. £10/hour, for perhaps 10 hours on the whole build. £100 well spent having someone that you can order about, for decent periods of time, without feeling bad about the tasks they are getting. My labourer is a friend from work and its worked out well. You may wish to consider liabilities etc, if you are letting people loose on your power tools etc.

Adam
 
garywayne, With an "L" shaped workshop you need to work out what type of roof structure you want as this will influence the roof truss design. If you make everything in manageable panels this will help in the construction.

I would suggest that you start drawing up a construction plan. This will help determine what to do when, ie. cut all timbers to length for one panel, or for all panels. Can you store all your materials on site or do you have to have multiple deliveries. How much tarpaulin do you need etc.
 
Adam.

Thanks for your thoughts.
I like the trestle idea.

Shultzy.

I didn't even give the roof a thought. I will have to cross that when I come to it. I just wanted to get as much garden out of my wife as possible. All the same, I will be having a pointy roof.

Does anybody know how easy it is to build in skylights?

Thank again guys.
ATB Gary.
 
Gary, skylights shouldn't be a big problem to build. If you don't need them to open you should be able to frame in after the trusses are up. Just make sure you seal them well and make it possible to remove them without tearing out the roof if you ever need to repair them.
 
Dave thanks for the reply. I would prefer skylights that open, but if it is to difficult I will have to have static ones. I'll see when I get there.

This is the size and shape of the shed:-
Workshop.png


The double door will be to the left. The roof will be a standard pointy one. Is it called a gable end roof?

I did mention patients didn't I? Before I commence with the shed I need to repair the fence which includes 13 concrete posts and 12 panels. First I have to remove and dig out the original fence. Oh what fun.

I will build this shed.
ATB Gary.
 
Are those measurements in inches? And is that you house peeping in at the corner?

If so, and its that close, will you fall foul of its proximity to your house in terms of it being classed as an extension?

Note: in all cases, if your new building would have a
volume over 10 cubic metres and come within 5
metres of the house, you need to be aware that it
could be treated as an extension (and its volume
deducted) when calculating your entitlement to
extend the house (see Section A).Also, if your new
extension would bring some existing garden building
within 5 metres of the (extended) house, that
existing building’s volume could be deducted from
your overall volume entitlement for the house, as if
it were another extension. Ask your council if in doubt.

From here http://www.communities.gov.uk/pub/445/P ... 500445.pdf
 
garywayne":bwgfdlau said:
Before I commence with the shed I need to repair the fence which includes 13 concrete posts and 12 panels. First I have to remove and dig out the original fence. Oh what fun. I will build this shed. ATB Gary.

Keep at it. I too had to do the fence first. In fact I had to do it first for the previous workshop too. I'd highly recommend doing featheredge. Its a lot more forgiving, and simpler than panels. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 679#172679 You also don't have to "finish" any set amount in a day. So you can adjust your progress to how you are feeling.

Adam
 
Hi Adam.

The bit jutting into the picture is the yet to be built conservatory.

Inches? Yes.

Thanks for the quote, I will have to read it slowly a few times before I fully understand it.

Regards the fencing. I was wondering what type to use. I do want something substantial. Featheredge is a good idea, thanks.

I shall now go away have some lunch, and contemplate the building regs.

ATB Gary.
 

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