Need a really simple gauge making up.

[Gaff]

Hello.
I’m looking for someone that can make up a simple gauge for me (please see attached).
I’m after a piece of alloy, something that will not rust or mark bare wood made from round bar.
The diameter of the bar is not critical but some where in the region of 75mm would be good.
I need it thicknessed to 17.00mm with a slot cut in which is 17.00mm wide.
If the gauge could be eased very slightly on the edges that would also be useful.
If you would be able to assist in this could you please let DM me.
Many thanks.
Gaff

 

[ChaiLatte]

Do the two internal corners necessarily need to be sharp? If they do, that presents some challenges.

If it would work with, for example, a 3mm (or bigger) dia. hole drilled at the two vertices, it will be easier and cheaper to make.

 

[gcusick]

3d prinyed?

 

[Adam W.]

3d prinyed?

That must be a new ting.

 

[Gaff]

Hi ChaiLatte.
Yes the corners could be cut with up to a 1/4" bit if that's easier.
I need the main body of the gauge to test Female and the notch to test male parts so 17mm is quite important.

 

[Gaff]

3d prinyed?

Hi Geoff
No thanks.
G.

 

[--Tom--]

Accurate to 1/100mm but reference to wood- are you sure you need that level of accuracy? Interested in how it’ll be used

 

[Gaff]

Accurate to 1/100mm but reference to wood- are you sure you need that level of accuracy? Interested in how it’ll be used

Hi
I like to try to get the wood to 17.15mm but it has to be an average over a few boards.
With regard to use it will be wider then the vernier and give me an easier way to check the over dimensions of the joints.
I would just adjust all the tools to work around this if there is any discrepanc.

 

[TFrench]

I could do this, so long as you're not in a rush. I'll check if I've got any suitable bar stock next time I'm in the workshop.

 

[gcusick]

That must be a new ting.

‘Tis indeed. Or, should I say, ‘yis indeed.

 

[Gaff]

I could do this, so long as you're not in a rush. I'll check if I've got any suitable bar stock next time I'm in the workshop.

Hi
Yea no rush if you can help just let me know.
Thanks.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I'll check if I've got any suitable bar stock next time I'm in the workshop.

Cheapest way I found to make it assuming no material in stock is from 4" x 3" x 1" aluminium plate, £12 delivered from eBay. That was the nearest oversize I could find with a quick search. 3" round bar is difficult to buy in very short lengths.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

Accurate to 1/100mm but reference to wood- are you sure you need that level of accuracy? Interested in how it’ll be used

Hi
I like to try to get the wood to 17.15mm but it has to be an average over a few boards.
With regard to use it will be wider then the vernier and give me an easier way to check the over dimensions of the joints.
I would just adjust all the tools to work around this if there is any discrepanc.

Although the 17.00mm stated in the OPs original message could be said to imply an accuracy of 0.01mm is that really the requirement? Normal engineering practice, I think, is +/-0.1. If 0.01mm is required then the surfaces need lapping smooth otherwise your just measuring the top of the bumps of the 'rough' surface finish. That'll be costly. But surely that's not really required.

 

[Yojevol]

Check out Metals4U. 20mm of 3" for £4 + P&P, if I'm not mistaken.
Brian

 

[stuart little]

That must be a new ting.

I tink it's an age thingy, I suffer wit it & carpel tunnel syn. doesn't help either.

 

[deema]

Probably the quickest and cheapest solution would be a snap gauge, these are adjustable go / nogo you can get them off eBay for less than a £10. A single 17mm gauge block would be for the female checks. You can buy them separately.

Eg you only need the smaller one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22516075...8mfAKrtRtW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Gaff]

Although the 17.00mm stated in the OPs original message could be said to imply an accuracy of 0.01mm is that really the requirement? Normal engineering practice, I think, is +/-0.1. If 0.01mm is required then the surfaces need lapping smooth otherwise your just measuring the top of the bumps of the 'rough' surface finish. That'll be costly. But surely that's not really required.

As close to 17.00mm as possible would be nice (over size rather then under size will be preferred).
My vernier is cheap and nasty and in the real world could be millimeters out of whack. Who cares?
I look for repeatable measurements that are constant over the parts I'm making. Outside of that has no bearing on the parts (thank god).
I know after six years of making these that with the Vernier I have if I see 17.1-mm then after a final drying and a quick sanding and taking into account the different gain densities I'm going to have a friction fit that is just that with very little fettling if any to finish off with.
Simples!

 

[J-G]

Why the need for a circular billet? Surely - even allowing for the need for both internal and external gauging - a three part construction (with a single nut/bolt - undrawn) such as :

... would do the job admirably.

Afterall this is just to measure wood which will change size (in an unknown direction) as soon as the gauge has been removed.