Nakashima style coffee tables

[Paul200]

Hi all. I got these two Yew boards in the summer and have been wondering what to use them for.

I usually keep myself busy making boxes to sell in a local gallery but wanted to do something different and to do justice to this lovely wood. So I thought I might have a go at something like this.

I'm thinking coffee table(s), about 1m long. I'm fine with the joinery but what I can't decide on is how to connect the slab top to the base. The widest part of the widest board is 37cm, so there will be some movement, and the 'slab' leg is a major part of the strength of the piece so the connection has to be robust.

My searches haven't revealed much on what goes on underneath, but one maker screwed insert nuts into the top and simply bolted the stretchers into them. That would certainly be robust enough but wouldn't allow any movement at all. Has anyone any thoughts or words of wisdom on this please?

 

[marcros]

I do like the Nakashima tables. His book was a very inspiring read.

 

[Paul200]

I do like the Nakashima tables. His book was a very inspiring read.

He doesn't mention his fixing method in there does he Marcros

 

[marcros]

Not that I recall but I will have a look.

 

[Misterdog]

Purists please look away.

In the past when I have wished to create such an invisible joint, I have drilled blind holes in the top. Created 'dovetails' with the holes then filled them with 2K car body filler. Fasten round head screws to the stretcher leaving the heads proud by 10mm and insert into the filler.

 

[Fitzroy]

I do like the Nakashima tables. His book was a very inspiring read.

It’s on my Christmas list this year! I think his tables are great and are deceptively simple, ensuring the are strong enough and stable enough is probs the tricky bit about them.

A long mortise for the main leg then screw inserts in the top and bolts through the undertop long supports. See my terrible sketch, the long supports would flex with the moving top, the mortise to prevent racking.

Fitz.

 

[Paul200]

Thanks so much Fitz. That's exactly how I envisioned jointing it but was concerned about the flexibility (or lack of) of the bolted supports (stretchers?). I don't expect there will be much movement across 35cm but it did bother me that I either compromise the strength or risk splitting the top. Deceptively simple is right!

Looking at it again I'm happy that this is the answer now. The main 'leg' will also be subject to movement so will move with the top and the stretchers - especially as it will be from the same board. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how I get on.

 

[msparker]

My last project was a Nakashima style table also, in my case one of the symmetrical designs using London Plane. I used threaded inserts and slotted holes on the supports, I don't think this is how they were originally done but it seems to work.

 

[Paul200]

Well, that's just beautiful! Thanks for the pictures too - extremely helpful. That's great work msparker

 

[Cabinetman]

Hi Paul, from your original photo it looks as if. (correctly) the "slab leg" has the grain going up and down which means that it will expand and contract across its width at the the same rate as the top will, so it’s easy enough just to fit the two together with a housing joint, the amount of glue area means that it will more than strong enough. Ian

 

[Paul200]

Hi Paul, from your original photo it looks as if. (correctly) the "slab leg" has the grain going up and down which means that it will expand and contract across its width at the the same rate as the top will, so it’s easy enough just to fit the two together with a housing joint, the amount of glue area means that it will more than strong enough. Ian

Cheers buddy. I realised that along the way! I've been making jewellery boxes for nearly 30 years, and they are quite small, so this wood movement lark is a bit of a learning curve for me. Thanks for your help - and Merry Christmas!