My Victorian sliding sash windows d/g

[LBCarpentry]

I has some victorian sliders to make for a builder and after looking on here I found reletively little info.

So I just drew my setting out and went for it! They are made in sapele hardwood and have (by request) been made using spiral spring balances. They are also double glazed and I had to machine absolutely everything right down to the glazing beads and staff beads. They have been fitted now and im just waiting for a good day to take some photos. I will update the final pix when I have them. If anyone is thinking of doing the same and has any Questions, feel free to contact me!

Let me know your thoughts.

Louis

 

[MickCheese]

Can I ask whet the second picture is? The one that has been routed using a template.

Mick

 

[mickthetree]

Thats the traditional shape for the foot of the front sash stiles. Well the same as on any sashes I've seen. I presume it is something to do with water dispersal so it doesnt go onto the edge of the sash or into the groove, but it could just be decorative? Anyway, they look great! I always wanted to replace ours but looks like we're moving house beofre I got chance (only there 5 years...opps)

 

[LBCarpentry]

The photos are not in the correct order. whoops!

The decorative sash 'horns' were one of the final procedures that I did.

I think they are for decoration but also to stop the windows going fully up / down as this would cause the chords to 'bottom out'

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

The sash horns are there as a decorative feature, but also practically to make a strong joint of the meeting rail/stile. Without horns you need a dovetail joint there.

Im interested to see some finished pictures up

 

[AndyT]

Nice to see timber frames being used - it ought to be so much commoner than dreadful PVC - but please tell me they will be painted. I was expecting to see at least the primer on before installation.

 

[Ollie78]

Hi LB. These look really nice and, quite similar to some sashes I am building myself at the moment from Meranti.
Mine are for double glazed units and I am using whitehill cutters on a spindle moulder.

I am assuming you have used through wedged tenons.

I was just wondering how you resolved the issue of the meeting rail on the lower sash. Regarding the fact that the ends of the rail must be tenoned and coped to the stile without removing the splayed section of the meeting rail. ?
In the end I could not afford the extortionate £300 plus that whitehill wanted for a custom cutter matched to my stile cuts so in the end I have had to allow the end of the splayed section to be cut off in line with the tenon and will glue on a small section later.

I was told that prior to recent health and safety rules it was easy and cheap to make cutters for this purpose but now these are not allowed.
I find this perplexing, as I was able to purchase cutters matched to my pattern for the horns which cut the timber in a vertical position and required a considerable jig to be even remotely safe.

Just curious as to how people deal with this annoying little problem. ?

( I do know a joinery shop that shall remain nameless who still use an extremely old spindle moulder. Which they claim does certain things no modern machine can do. This machine is officially a display piece.)


Cheers Ollie

 

[colinbala]

hi nice, i wana make some not sure what to use spring or weight, dont you need a box for he springs are they straightforward to fit?

I has some victorian sliders to make for a builder and after looking on here I found reletively little info.

So I just drew my setting out and went for it! They are made in sapele hardwood and have (by request) been made using spiral spring balances. They are also double glazed and I had to machine absolutely everything right down to the glazing beads and staff beads. They have been fitted now and im just waiting for a good day to take some photos. I will update the final pix when I have them. If anyone is thinking of doing the same and has any Questions, feel free to contact me!

Let me know your thoughts.

Louis

 

[Jelly]

I was just wondering how you resolved the issue of the meeting rail on the lower sash. Regarding the fact that the ends of the rail must be tenoned and coped to the stile without removing the splayed section of the meeting rail. ?
In the end I could not afford the extortionate £300 plus that whitehill wanted for a custom cutter matched to my stile cuts so in the end I have had to allow the end of the splayed section to be cut off in line with the tenon and will glue on a small section later.

I was told that prior to recent health and safety rules it was easy and cheap to make cutters for this purpose but now these are not allowed.
I find this perplexing, as I was able to purchase cutters matched to my pattern for the horns which cut the timber in a vertical position and required a considerable jig to be even remotely safe.

Just curious as to how people deal with this annoying little problem. ?

( I do know a joinery shop that shall remain nameless who still use an extremely old spindle moulder. Which they claim does certain things no modern machine can do. This machine is officially a display piece.)


Cheers Ollie

It's to do with chip limitation, the whole head has to follow the approximate profile, not just the cutting head with a void behind it... in turn that means you have to spend a lot of money for custom profiles, previously you could make and use custom tooling much more easily. In general the easiest ways round it are to either use a planer/moulder rather than a spindle, or decide to switch to using a selection commercially available profiles.