My Router Table Build

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Watching with much interest - the same insert arrived in my postbag yesterday, and I also have the large Triton to fit to it. :)

You're ahead of me, though - I won't be in a position to plan mine until next year.

IIRC the 4 screws you mention are imperial - I think I have the relevant thread with size and sources bookmarked at home. WIll post again this evening.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave, look forward to hearing what you've got.

And is it just me or is this a very new addition to the Axminster cat, I checked my early 2008 catalogue and it has no sign of this router plate in it. Looks like an amazing bit of kit.
 
It's in my catalogue - may be a different issue to yours. Will check when I get home. The description in the catalogue says that there are guides underneath the plate for drilling the holes, but there are none on mine. Not even any concentric circles as there were on my existing insert.

Dave
 
It's new for 2009. I have the Tilgear one and it's different to that one.
 
I name only, seems to have all the same features as far as I can tell, starting pin, insert rings, leveling grub screws, earth magnets to hold the plate. Same price too!
 
Dave S":1tiu6yc3 said:
It's in my catalogue - may be a different issue to yours. Will check when I get home. The description in the catalogue says that there are guides underneath the plate for drilling the holes, but there are none on mine. Not even any concentric circles as there were on my existing insert.

Dave

Mine either, but its not a difficult job really to do it. You get 4 evenly spaced holes on the triton base. What I will do is score a diagonal line from each corner to corner then measure the distance and get my hole points. Should be fairly easy. . . . . .
 
Chems":3fds7jqz said:
I name only, seems to have all the same features as far as I can tell, starting pin, insert rings, leveling grub screws, earth magnets to hold the plate. Same price too!

No it's different. Inserts are different, drill positions are different
 
Are the magnets supposed to go underneath the grub screws?

I found the thread about screw sizes which is here.

As suggested in the thread, I removed the spring-loaded bolts which normally are used to attach the fence and used countersunk bolts of the same thread to attach the router to a old plastic insert. It works fine, and I think there is enough thickness in this plate to safely do the same again.

Dave
 
I think the magnets just go anywhere in the corners to stop the plate lifting out to easily, sink them into a little hole in the cut out for the plate. Marked up the holes today then read your link so I will go with the 2 bolt option as I can use the bolts provided with the router no messing about then.
 
wizer":1vn79i93 said:
Chems":1vn79i93 said:
I name only, seems to have all the same features as far as I can tell, starting pin, insert rings, leveling grub screws, earth magnets to hold the plate. Same price too!

No it's different. Inserts are different, drill positions are different

No it isn't its pretty much exactly the same bar a few holes. To be honest I have no idea what the other holes are for other than for the starter pin. Anyone shed any light? Raiser devices or something?
 
The fact that the holes are in a different configuration and the inserts are a different designs, it pretty much a good sign that it's a different product, probably of a different manufacturer ?

Surely?
 
Yes yes of course its a different design, I'm just saying that its an almost exact copy of the Tilgear one wouldn't you say?
 
It's different for the reasons I stated, you seemed to imply that it was a clone manufactured by the same company.
 
I don't understand why you would need magnets and adjusting screws, my first plate in my table, close to 17 years old now was alloy, it lay flat with no movement at all, this year I bought a plate from axminster, their basic Tufnol plate, that lays flush with the top and does not need any adjusting or holding down, this one has been in constant use for about 9 months now, very satisfactory, I only changed because I couldn't fit my new raised panel cutter set into the alloy one.
Derek.
 
I guess the magnets are just to stop you lifting it out if your changing bits or something in-advertantly. And the screws are encase you done level the rebate for the plate perfectly and can then adjust the heights in the corners to compensate.
 
Probably what I thought, all seems very unneccessary, one would only use a heavy duty router in a table, so the weight is more than enough to keep it down, and by routing out the top accurately, the plate must fit and stay flush.
Derek.
 
The magnets with the Tilgear and Axminster plates are also there to prevent the grub screws from digging in to and wearing the MDF. :wink:
 

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