My first router table
- Thread starter Rorschach
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MattRoberts
Established Member
Pretty much any wax will do the job, even a candle. I use clear briwax
The starter pin is vital when you are first starting out.
If you don't use one, when you first put the wood to the cutter it will grab and throw the piece clear across the room.
You should place the wood firmly against the starter pin, make sure your fingers will not get anywhere near the bit, and slowly rotate the wood into the bit. Once the cutter is fully into the wood and the top (bottom) bearing is engaged with the wood, you can then start to move the wood around the cutter.
Later on, with much experience, it is possible to do without the pin. I now just use the fence as a resting point, but still don't just go in freehand
If you don't use one, when you first put the wood to the cutter it will grab and throw the piece clear across the room.
You should place the wood firmly against the starter pin, make sure your fingers will not get anywhere near the bit, and slowly rotate the wood into the bit. Once the cutter is fully into the wood and the top (bottom) bearing is engaged with the wood, you can then start to move the wood around the cutter.
Later on, with much experience, it is possible to do without the pin. I now just use the fence as a resting point, but still don't just go in freehand
I'm thinking of doing a table for a Katsu following this plan. Rather than cutting a recess to depth for the router to attach to, could I cut a hole right through, then laminate a sheet of 6mm ply over the table top, attach the router to the ply (and drill a smaller hole in the ply for the cutter/ collet)? I think I'd find that easier but would it work?
A revived thread! =D>
Chris, an unusual approach, but nothing to stop you. As long as you have access to adjust the height and replace the bit on that router.
If access is restricted, it would be simpler to make a smaller ply insert so you could lift the router and insert out for bit changing.
Think it all through before you start, changing bits needs to be simple and easy, or youll soon have to make yet another table.
8 months on, and I have to admit i no longer use the starter pin. i just go straight in with the piece firmly and safely held.
Chris, an unusual approach, but nothing to stop you. As long as you have access to adjust the height and replace the bit on that router.
If access is restricted, it would be simpler to make a smaller ply insert so you could lift the router and insert out for bit changing.
Think it all through before you start, changing bits needs to be simple and easy, or youll soon have to make yet another table.
8 months on, and I have to admit i no longer use the starter pin. i just go straight in with the piece firmly and safely held.
Yes I think that would work fine, play is not a super smooth surface though so you might want to consider that, it's why I used MFC.
I am considering an upgrade on this table, it works nicely but I fancy something a little bit smarter. Either i am going to use some aluminium sign board for the top and a similar fence/base system, or I am also considering making a fitting for my table saw so I can make use of the table saw fence and mitre gauge. Not decided yet, no panic for it.
I am considering an upgrade on this table, it works nicely but I fancy something a little bit smarter. Either i am going to use some aluminium sign board for the top and a similar fence/base system, or I am also considering making a fitting for my table saw so I can make use of the table saw fence and mitre gauge. Not decided yet, no panic for it.
Ok, just ordered one, arriving tomorrow. i think you're right Bob, I need to look carefully at it and figure what'll work - at the moment it's totally abstract, I've not even used a router before. And for the moment Rorschach, your design'll be just fine I think - when I get the hang of it I can think about improvements. We'll see...
I was thinking to get a couple of straight router bits from axminster - I don't want to do complex profiles, just shallow grooves for inserting other strips of wood.
I was thinking to get a couple of straight router bits from axminster - I don't want to do complex profiles, just shallow grooves for inserting other strips of wood.
Might want to have a look at wealden bits Chris. I don't have anywhere near the experience to recommend bits but each time the question of router brand bits gets mentioned they get overwhelming commendations. Nothing against the axis ones btw.
Excellent service and bits for the few times I've bought from them.
Might help. Just a heads up.
Excellent service and bits for the few times I've bought from them.
Might help. Just a heads up.
I've got a basic Trend set that are superb value for money, I also have a few Chinese cutters bought for pennies from Alieexpress, they are incredibly good for the price but the quality of cut is not as clean. I have them on hand for cutting things like chipboard.
Advice noted - I'm going to just get one Axi bit (they're just down the road from here) so I can get going and take it from there.
But before I do - I've been looking online for a good palm router tutorial (handheld, fixed base) so I can confidently/ safely try it out, but have found nothing that's not shouting at me or confusing. Any recommendations - something really basic? Once I've had a go I can get on with the table, but don't want to rush into anything.
But before I do - I've been looking online for a good palm router tutorial (handheld, fixed base) so I can confidently/ safely try it out, but have found nothing that's not shouting at me or confusing. Any recommendations - something really basic? Once I've had a go I can get on with the table, but don't want to rush into anything.
My experience with routers started only 4 years ago, and I am completely self taught, but I can tell you that a table mounted router is considerably easier and safer to use as a first timer.
With a table router, the blade is there, plain view, doesnt move. You can calculate how close you need to be.
With a fixed base, the bit is out there, spinning like a loon. You move it around the wood, and a finger can easily find its way underneath. I had a very near miss the first time i used a hand held. Its not easier, and its not safer.
A plunge router is reasonably safe to learn with though, because you need both hands on the sides to operate it
With a table router, the blade is there, plain view, doesnt move. You can calculate how close you need to be.
With a fixed base, the bit is out there, spinning like a loon. You move it around the wood, and a finger can easily find its way underneath. I had a very near miss the first time i used a hand held. Its not easier, and its not safer.
A plunge router is reasonably safe to learn with though, because you need both hands on the sides to operate it
Ok, I'm convinced! I'll keep my itchy fingers safe and get on with building the table.
In case anyone's interested, I bought an 8mm bit for under £10, though it was marked up at over £12 on the shelf. They're in the process of changing the prices throughout the stores to match those in the new catalogue - they had a pile of sheets (each with lots of the small price tags) the size of an old telephone book, so I guess an awful lot of items are being marked down - apparently, none are being marked up. The prices online are already adjusted.
Anyway, table building...
In case anyone's interested, I bought an 8mm bit for under £10, though it was marked up at over £12 on the shelf. They're in the process of changing the prices throughout the stores to match those in the new catalogue - they had a pile of sheets (each with lots of the small price tags) the size of an old telephone book, so I guess an awful lot of items are being marked down - apparently, none are being marked up. The prices online are already adjusted.
Anyway, table building...
I searched "Farmer Giles' but in the 10 pages of results it didn't come up. If anyone finds it let me know? Ta.
Anyway - it works!
One thing - the bit is a straight 8mm x 20mm with two cutting edges from Axminster, but I can't find the recommended speed on their site. I set it to 5 for the test cut which apparently is 31000 rpm - does that sound right for the bit?
Anyway - it works!
One thing - the bit is a straight 8mm x 20mm with two cutting edges from Axminster, but I can't find the recommended speed on their site. I set it to 5 for the test cut which apparently is 31000 rpm - does that sound right for the bit?
Attachments
most straight bits are made for "maximum" speed. many routers dont even have speed control. Once you get into 1" and wider specialty bits the speed needs to be reduced because of the amount of centrifugal force a large cutter has.
Jon.1976
Established Member
As bm101 said, wealden are excellent. Delivery is free and really quick, bits are good too.
Just had a look at their prices - they're about the same so will definitely order a couple more sizes to try out.Jon.1976":364s80hl said:
Have to say, I'm delighted with the setup - it seems so useful and safe, and incredibly easy to use. Thanks for the original post Rorschach and everyone for advice.
Raymond UK
Established Member
Looking good. Nice and simple and does the job. In fact, it probably do most jobs you'll ever need a router table for. I like the fence construction with one fixed end.
My first router table was a piece of kitchen top with a diy fence. Even the feather boards I cut out of wood running in a routed T-slot with coach bolts....
I have made a new router table about 4-5 years ago to suit my needs better but I guess I'll be ready to build another one in a year or two from now with a better insert plate and clear stock guides.
My first router table was a piece of kitchen top with a diy fence. Even the feather boards I cut out of wood running in a routed T-slot with coach bolts....
I have made a new router table about 4-5 years ago to suit my needs better but I guess I'll be ready to build another one in a year or two from now with a better insert plate and clear stock guides.
