Multiple question thread

[tibi]

Hello,

I just want to save this forum's space, so I will ask multiple questions here that I am dealing with now. If you would like to answer any of my questions, feel free to refer to them by their number in your answers. Thank you very much.

1. What is the difference in usage between card scraper and cabinet scraper? Are they both used for cleaning difficult areas after a smoothing plane? If I have a card scraper, do I need to buy a cabinet scraper too? Is the difference just that a cabinet scraper is a card scraper with a holder? Do I need a dedicated burnisher or using a drill bit or a screwdriver is enough?

2. Why do people use 200+ grid sandpaper after scraping wood? Should not scraping leave a superior finish to sanding?

3. Are new Stanley spokeshaves any good? I have read that Paul Sellers recommends them. Do I need both with flat and round bottoms? I wanted to buy a Luban with flat bottom, but they do not have one with round bottom, so I would not have a match if I need both.

4. I have found out that If I want to buy a record 044 or stanley 050 that is complete with at least some cutters, the price with import and shipping fees almost matches the one of Veritas small plough plane. It is the same as with router planes. You cannot buy vintage on eBay for less than a brand new Veritas. I could theoretically buy body and blades separately, but if I add separate import and shipping costs, I am at the price of Veritas small plough plane. I have not found any other brand new plough plane, except for Luban/Quansheng 043, which costs just a little less than Veritas.
However, yesterday I have found this chinese plane on aliexpress, which costs around 45 USD. Do you think it may be usable?

5. Why fitting a tapered sliding dovetail is easier than a regular sliding dovetail? I can only imagine that I can mismatch the angle of the taper and then it would slide more easily.
When I have a vertical divider in a cabinet, can I use just a plain dado or sliding dovetail would be better? it would be 40 cm long.

Thank you for answering any of the questions.

 

[Just4Fun]

2. I prefer a scraped surface to a sanded one.

3. I bought a new Stanley spokeshave 3 or 4 years ago, following advice on this forum. It did the job I wanted it to and I have used it on other projects since. I have no experience with any other spokeshave but I have no complaints about the Stanley.

5. The sides of a tapered sliding dovetail only contact the housing just before the joint is fully together, so you don't have too much friction to overcome during assembly. The sides of a regular sliding dovetail contact the housing over its full length and is harder to push together.

 

[Cabinetman]

4. I can’t say whether it will be any good or not unfortunately but I really like the look of that plane, looks more Japanese than anything else to my eye.

 

[tibi]

2. I prefer a scraped surface to a sanded one.

3. I bought a new Stanley spokeshave 3 or 4 years ago, following advice on this forum. It did the job I wanted it to and I have used it on other projects since. I have no experience with any other spokeshave but I have no complaints about the Stanley.

5. The sides of a tapered sliding dovetail only contact the housing just before the joint is fully together, so you don't have too much friction to overcome during assembly. The sides of a regular sliding dovetail contact the housing over its full length and is harder to push together.

Thank you Just4Fun,

I may give Stanley spokeshaves a try and I will get both flat and round bottom for half the price of a single Veritas spokeshave. I do know know how much I will use spokeshaves, so that is why I want to buy a functional, but not so great looking spokeshave instead of Boggs spokeshave.

5. Yes, you are right, mating surfaces will contact only when the tapered sliding dovetail is fully assembled, otherwise there is always a gap between the male and female part. I did not visualise it correctly before.

 

[tibi]

4. I can’t say whether it will be any good or not unfortunately but I really like the look of that plane, looks more Japanese than anything else to my eye.

It has some mixed reviews on amazon Rabbet Plane, Hand Wood Planer DIY Plough Plane Slot Grooving Wood Plane Shoulder Plane Adjustable Hand Plane for Carpenter Woodcarver with 5 Planer Blades - - Amazon.com
But I think it would be worth it just for the irons alone. I can build myself another plane and use the irons. According to reviews this plane is supposed to be used as pull plane.

 

[TRITON]

I prefer a scraped surface to a sanded one.

A scraped surface gives you a hard surface,whereas a sanded one is a soft surface.
It all comes down to clarity.
There was talk a while back about sanding to very fine grits before polishing, and im not talking 480, but in the thousands. The point was to give that hard surface so the finish magnified the figuring clearer, as opposed to the lightly sanded to 480 which meant the 'picture' if you will remained slightly blurred*.

* Sorry, thats the best kind of description i can offer, but i think you know what i mean.

 

[Orraloon]

1 A card scraper will give a very good surface that should not require sanding but it is hard on the thumbs if you have a lot to scrape. The cabinet scraper lets you do the work with less pain. Its good to have both.

3 Stanley shaves are OK if you fettle them. They come with the bed loaded with paint so scrape that off and if required lightly file the bed so the blade sits firmly. I have a stanley flat sole and a record round sole. Again good to have both.

4 I also like the look of the plow plane but can not say if it is any good. I have an old vintage english one that is nice to use but you seldom find one with a set of cutters at a realistic price now. At the asking price its worth a chance.

Regards
John

 

[clogs]

or u could just go to Canada/USA for a holiday and bring a few bits back....!!!!!

 

[sawtooth-9]

Re No 2
It depends on the grain and porosity of the wood.
Tight grain - use a scraper
Softer, open grain - use sandpaper, but down to at least 800 grit

 

[Phil Pascoe]

That depends upon the finish chosen - some manufactures state you shouldn't go anywhere near that fine.
Osmo specify either 180 or 240 (I can't remember which, off hand)

Unless you're intending to work very concave curves, you won't need a round bottomed spokeshave. Get a flat one and use it til you find out you need a curved one.

There was a study mentioned some years back which didn't find any difference between a finish on a sanded surface and scraped one.

 

[Jacob]

....


5. Why fitting a tapered sliding dovetail is easier than a regular sliding dovetail? I can only imagine that I can mismatch the angle of the taper and then it would slide more easily.
When I have a vertical divider in a cabinet, can I use just a plain dado or sliding dovetail would be better? it would be 40 cm long.

Thank you for answering any of the questions.

Sliding DT is just a popular enthusiasts technical joint and not that practical. If not tapered it would have to be a perfect to loose fit or friction would make it difficult to put together - or to separate if further adjustments required.
A vertical divider in a cabinet easiest as plain butted with a few discretely inserted screws through. Or nails even. A plain housing is good, could be stop ended and not visible.

 

[rogxwhit]

Do I need both with flat and round bottoms?

You will need a round one for concave curves! You can address a convex curve with hand planes. So I'd just get a round one.

My main method of shaving is a draw cut with arms outstretched - this way you have better power and control. Try it (once you get a spokeshave).

My favourite spokeshave is an old Stanley 53 - the bed is flat but short, and the mouth is adjustable. I don't know if there are any modern equivalents.

 

[rogxwhit]

Sliding DT is just a popular enthusiasts technical joint and not that practical. If not tapered it would have to be a perfect to loose fit or friction would make it difficult to put together - or to separate if further adjustments required.

I consider it to be a practical and elegant solution. One aims for a light interference fit in things like bookshelves. For wide work like a table top, I'd go for a taper - but there's at least one other method that allows easy assembly.

Or nails even.

Oh my lord ...

 

[peter-harrison]

You will need a round one for concave curves! You can address a convex curve with hand planes. So I'd just get a round one.

My main method of shaving is a draw cut with arms outstretched - this way you have better power and control. Try it (once you get a spokeshave).

My favourite spokeshave is an old Stanley 53 - the bed is flat but short, and the mouth is adjustable. I don't know if there are any modern equivalents.

Wow! You must use your spokeshaves differently to how I do! (That's not intended as a criticism) I would guess that I use the flat one about 90% of the time, including for shallow concave curves. It may be my poor technique, but I find the round one chatters easily.
And on choice of maker, I have the two most basic Stanley spokeshaves, no fine adjusters, as well as a Preston and 2 Record with fine adjustment. The Stanleys are the ones I use all the time.