Multico saw help.

[Phil1975]

Hi,
I have recently rescued a Multico NTA3 saw & am in the process of stripping, cleaning & re-commissioning it. For the price it was a no brainier.
I already had a single phase motor & switch gear, so it’s now been converted & is in pieces for some deep cleaning & TLC.
Having never owned a sliding table saw I am after some advice setting it up.
The main problems I can see are:
1. The front of the blade is around 0.3mm out of square to the mitre tracks. The trunnions are mounted directly to the underside of the table & located by 2 pins & 2 large bolts & I can see no other way of squaring the blade to the mitre slot. I was planning on making a sled to cut picture frame mitres, should I worry about adjusting it for dead square or just crack on as is?
2. There is a lot of lash in the rise/fall wheel. Does anybody have a parts diagram or manual so I can see if any components are missing (I suspect there are)?
3. Any other advice on setting up & using the saw would be very much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[wallace]

Firstly is blade true, make sure the flange the blade sits against is clean. When making measurements do so from the same tooth on the blade.
I've never played with that model before so I don't know if their are anythings that can be adjusted to make the slider parallel to the blade. On wadkin stuff they have bearings on eccentric pins that can be altered.

 

[worn thumbs]

I would echo what wallace says about using the same tooth and would add that you ought to have the saw raised as high as possible to give the greatest arc of movement for the tooth.I also have no specific knowledge of that model,but have maintained a few saws over the years.I would begin by checking whether the track for the sliding table is parallel to the saw-and come to that whether the rip fence is too.Then move on to getting the cross-cut fence square to both,which would only leave checking that the square setting for the bevel of the blade is truly square to the plane of the table.With all that lot in order you should be able to make jigs confidently.Good luck.

 

[Phil1975]

Thank you for the replies.
I raised the blade as high as possible but I didn’t use a blade, I used a long, thin scrap of 18mm Plywood mounted to the arbour (the arbour was clean). The ply projects further than the blade & gives a longer ‘sweep’ for the dial gauge to reference from.
The problem I can see is that the rear of the blade is closer to the rip fence which screams kick back to me. Maybe sliding saws are set this way, but that seems unlikely to me as it makes the mitre slots & rip fence unusable?