Mounting a SCMS on a shelf ?

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wizer

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Hello

I'm finding myself continually re-shuffling the workshop. Something's got to go and the obvious one is the SCMS. But I kinda like it and find it useful for some things. So I have an idea swirling around my grey matter about having it on a shelf. This way it can be mounted above the height of my TS so material can still pass under it and free up the floor space.

I can't imagine the best way to do it. I found thesethings on eBay. They say they will hold 150KG's (my saw weighs 28kgs) but are only 580mm in length. I need about a meter in total.

Is this a silly idea?
 
I like Shultzy's idea but, wizer, it sounds like you're wanting to leave the saw on the shelf permanently, which suggests it could get in the way of your table saw...

I remember someone made a router table a couple of years ago (yes, on here!) that would fold-down against the wall. Might be worth a look but, I doubt it'll be sturdy enough for a mitre saw...?

Don't forget; the saw on it's own is 28kg but, the weight of the timber on top is gonna add to that! :shock: :wink:
 
Sorry, I think I misled. I want the SCMS to be permanently on the shelf (not fold-up) and used from there. It would be above the TS allowing stock to pass under it. I realise this is going to be extremely heavy. I wonder if I'd need some special brackets made up to take the load. Or even make them out of wood.

bracket.png



:-k
 
Make them out of wood, Tom.......you'll be fine with that. The bracket strength won't really be the issue......what will be important is how far apart they are, and thus the sagging or otherwise of the shelf.

Make brackets as per your little sketch, but leave off the upper diagonal brace. Screw a triangle of ply onto the side of the lower brace, upright and horizontal and you have a virtually indestructible shelf bracket.

I have always been tempted to cut a hole in the wall of my shed to take the guide bars of the SCMS........then build a wateproof box over the protrusion outside. I think your workshop is attached to your house......so the back end of a saw protruding through the dining room wall may not be the best idea!!!

Mike
 
I guess you'll also need a pair of supports (at least one either side of the saw) to support long lengths of timber.
 
Yeh I think you're right Mike. The wall I want it on is indeed the wall that goes into the dining room. I have allready fixed 2x4's to it, ready for a ply lining. So I'm thinking these brackets could be fixed both to the wall and through the side of the 2x4. Giving it strength from the wall and the floor, essentially.

OPJ":3rzc4z6k said:
I guess you'll also need a pair of supports (at least one either side of the saw) to support long lengths of timber.

Yes I'd intend to have a longish platform to support timber as well as the SCMS. It would only get to see big heavy timber a few times a year probably. I mainly using it for quick chops and mitres when the mitre gauge is not on the TS.
 
Yeah, that's what I find it useful for - removing most of the waste and giving you an angle to work from, which can be cleaned up by a plane and shooting board. It's also great for quickly cutting down long and large boards - one of those situations where it's easier to move the tool and keep the timber still. :wink: You could do all this with a bandsaw or by hand, yes, but, I find the 'smooth' edge from a circular saw cut is easier to plane.
 
Wizer,
I have done something similar to what you are looking to do. I just fixed a 3x2 to the wall, screwed a large piece of 26mm MDF to the 3x2. Then from the 2 front corners of the MDF i ran screw thread bar up to the ceiling to support the front.
This left no obstructions under the saw to foul the outfeed from my table saw which is next to it.
It`s important to make sure the threaded bar can`t interfer with the SCMS or timber, once i`d got that right it was a great space saver.
 
yes I thought about running something up to the ceiling but I'm not sure how much they'd get in the way.
 
Thinking about this again. I came across an article on FWW.com about how to make a lumber rack and it got me thinking.

bracket2.jpg


This method uses a plywood 'gusset' to transfer the weight towards the wall and down to the floor. Seems like a winner to me. Less talking more action I suppose.
 
I built a rolling cupboard on top of which sits both my scms and bench top morticer. I can roll it out of the way and move it to where it is needed when cutting long boards. The height was designed to clear my universal and my bench. The cupboard space was much needed as well!
 
That's how I have it at the moment Pac1, but it interferes with the outfeed from my TS which will also become the infeed for my RT. Having it on a shelf means things can pass under it freely. It won't be wasted space either, as everything below the height of the TS can be used.
 
Hi, Wizer

Get a local welder to knock you some brackets from 2X1 box section steel, that should be plenty strong enough. If you where closer I would make them for you, it would only take a hour or so.


Pete
 
Cheers Pete, do you think that timber won't work?

How would you design the metal brackets?
 
Blimey, you don't live next door do you?? ;) Never noticed you was from Erith.

Yes that'd be very kind of you. Where would I obtain the steel from? Do you have a design in mind?
 
moved from erith i am in sladegreen now
just like you're first drawing is it going on shelf and being
used while on the shelf
 
wizer b & q do a range of steel angle and box section as for a design
the first drawing you put will be ok.
is the saw going to be used while on the shelf or just to be stored
on when not in use
 
I want it to live and be used on the shelf permanently.

I'll pop down to B&Q and see what they have got.

Cheers.
 

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