Most water resistant wood

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I would make the whole thing from copper, end of problem.

Pete
 
Oryxdesign":2urcmxjr said:
Jelly":2urcmxjr said:
Oryxdesign":2urcmxjr said:
Good luck machining greenheart! Be careful of the splinters too.

At the risk of sounding flippant:- there's no luck to it if you use appropriate tool geometries; though unless you really love sharpening, carbide tipped tooling probably wouldn't go amiss either.

I suspect you haven't machined much Greenheart but if you have and have found suitable geometry that ensures the blade doesnt' dull I'm sure Jacob will be all ears

One of our toolroom chaps devised a "method" for working extremely hard timbers... I don't know that it would be reccomended to anyone, however.

Basically he set up carbide cutters with a very low clearence angle in a block modifed to have a very low cutting angle, then ran the material through using a low feed speed going with rather than agsinst the rotation of the cutters, taking very slight amounts in each pass... His logic being that as type 3 chip formation relies less on a very keen edge, so it wouldn't matter too much as it dulled.

Don't know if he ever got to use it on greenheart.
 
phil.p":1q7g9bxq said:
marcros":1q7g9bxq said:
Richard T":1q7g9bxq said:
Elm, famously, does not rot in water. Could be cheaper.

I may be wrong but is the problem with elm the junction between air and water- where it is submerged it wont rot but where it is getting regularly wet and dry it may do. I may be thinking of something else though.

Where people get it wrong is that they read of underground drains and parts of watermills etc. that have survived centuries, but forget that these were perpetually wet. Several woods that last quite well IN water won't survive a cycle of soaking and drying out.
Phil.
Elm is only durable when totally immersed. Otherwise, it rots fairly quickly. And the worms love it!
 
Since the condensation is simply a symptom of paid-for heat escaping through the window, a better solution would be to increase the insulation value of the window design.

BugBear
 
bugbear":e2sn87xj said:
Since the condensation is simply a symptom of paid-for heat escaping through the window, a better solution would be to increase the insulation value of the window design.

BugBear
Double glazing gets condensation too. In any case to double or triple glaze these windows would cost several thousands , with a very long (if ever) payback period, whereas these condensation drains will cost just tens.
 
Accoya is radiata pine, a real wood. Still takes on free water and will discolour exatctly the same as any other timber.

Try it and find out. Its very appealing to me.

Only downside is the acidity level is near the level of oak so stainless fixings/ ironmongery and a stain blocking primer are advisable.
 
Pete Claydon, who makes the Red Leaf wooden surfboards (www.redleafsurfboards.com) in the latest issue of British Woodworking is experimenting with paulownia (I think). Reportedly it only needs finishing with a 50:50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turps to be resistant, even to sea water. Trouble is I don't know where you can get it.

Nick
 
I think Alder wood can be a good recommendation. It has a good reputation for water resistance. ;)


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yvonne_l
 

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