Damian - I was a little concerned that there appears to be no hold down bars to keep the work steady when the chisel's withdrawn. Presumably you need to wind the handwheel up really tight to grip the timber. I wonder if the jaws were lined with some fine sandpaper to help grip...would this be an advantage? - RobIronballs":16h9mvx5 said:Mine works okay too, though it does require some fettling to make it go properly. Be warned, the sod weighs an absolute ton and is a job to lift on the bench.
I found that you have to do everything up super tight, more so than I would expect, ie I've had the auger get pushed back towards the chisel and the clamp requires a real tug to stop your work moving
NT - now that's an interesting tip. Another one that Pete (Newt) did if memory serves is to fettle the sides of the chisel that make contact with the mortise, in other words they can be relieved slightly so that only the first 6mm or so at the pointy bit is in close contact with the timber. The relieving only needs to be very small and can be done with a coarse DMT slip stone (I think that's how Pete did it) - RobNight Train":2pm5zplv said:This probably isn't a good idea but it works for me.
To stop the chisel from being gripped by the wood I apply a little wax to the sides of the chisel and the drill. It then cuts really smoothly. It probably leaves wax in the mortise but as I always hand finish the mortise any wax residual is removed anyway.
paulm":t9bc411u said:This is the one I use which seems pretty good, no real problems with it, haven't used it a whole lot yet though and haven't tried others to compare it to, but happy with it to date
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/F14651
Cheers, Paul
Pete - I'll have another natter with you about them next time I see you...June perhaps :wink: :wink: - Robnewt":2lmjjdbv said:I did relieve my cheap Chinese chisels 3/4" dia :evil:
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