Morticer or Domino

[Doug B]

Can't say I've ever used a square to set up a morticer :|

No nor me, just aligned the chisel to the back fence on the adjustable table.
That said, having bought the domino XL a while back the mortiser has now been mothballed, fantastic bit of kit, I did have reservations about getting one but definitely wouldn't be without it now.

I find the onset of these type of small hand held power tools such a boon over my more conventional machines, their track saw has been a revelation over how I work these days, just as the domino is becoming, it just requires a different mindset but because it's not the traditional way doesn't make it any less good.

 

[Andy RV]

A good morticer (e.g a floor standing, heavy duty machine of British origin) is easy to set up and does not require messing around with squares and 2p's!

Good woodworking machines all share some fundamental characteristics, they're heavy constructed so they do not vibrate and move/ flex during use and they're accurately machined. The majority of new bench top morticers and machines supplied from the far east are not!

No doubt the Domino is a really good piece of kit for knocking up internal joinery, however IMO it's not the tool for manufacturing external joinery like you want to make, doors, gates ect. For these you really want through wedged tenons.

Of all the woodworking machinery the morticer probably takes up the least floor space... As long as you don't buy a big old cast chain / chisel machine!

 

[Rhossydd]

Any recommendations, budget up to £500, looked at Axminster who have a bit of a sale on at the moment.

Their bench morticer is pretty decent and almost a third of the price of a Domino. I've got the previous model and from what I've seen most of the minor gripes I've had with mine have been addressed, ie changing lock bolts for lock handles and adding locks to both tables axis.
Like any of the cheap Chinese machine tools, it might need some minor fettling on arrival, but there's really not much to go wrong with such a simple machine. Despite what others intimate, setting it up is quick and easy.
Get decent chisels and make sure they're fettled correctly (http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/sharpening-hollow-chisel-mortising-bits.aspx) and you'll find it a useful bit of kit.

 

[PAC1]

Call me old fashioned but for external work I would not rely upon Dominoes and glue. A proper M&T wedged or pinned provides a mechanical joint long after the weather has caused the glue to fail. For internal work dominoes are brilliant.

 

[Doug B]

You don't need to restrict yourself to using the compressed dominos, the machine simply cuts slots as a mortiser does.
It's not rocket science to simply square up the rounded corners of the slots with a chisel whilst at the same time forming the taper for the wedges when making a traditional wedged joint.

As I said before it's just a mindset, the XL is a great system when used with the beech dominos but with a little thought can be so much more, it's not just a one trick pony. As with a router the limitations are not always on the side of the machine but that of the user.

 

[dogbower]

Well changed my mind and went for the Domino XL in the end.
Thanks for all the advice, I will be using it to make proper through joints for the external work, and have ordered the adapter so I can use the smaller bits for the cupboards etc.
The fact I am short on space swung it towards the Festool in the end.
I will let you know how I find it.
Stuart.

 

[Zeddedhed]

I've made front doors, garden gates, patio tables and benches and two playhouses all of which used the Domino XL extensively.
Others have said it but I'll say it too, you can easily do a through M&T with one. Just think of it as a hand held mortiser. Drawboring/pinning the tenons makes a joint that I've yet to see fail outdoors.
I'd weep if I lost mine!!

Having said all of that I bought it 'cos I didn't have room for a mortiser but I'm glad I did. I can take it anywhere, work in whatever part of the workshop is the clearest/warmest/closest to the kettle and with the CTL Midi absolutely no mess whatsoever.

I guess a good analogy maybe that a Domino is to a mortiser as a router is to a spindle moulder.

I don't have a spindle moulder but I have 5 routers and I've yet to find something I can't make with a bit of creative thinking.
Obviously I'm not talking about full scale production work here. Just me in my workshop or on site making one-offs for me or my clients.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I have a cheap Axminster bench morticer (sliding table jobbie): I love it.

Most of the time it's got a drill chuck in it and sits on the bench as a quick'n'dirty drill press (beware though - in that mode my small one has limited reach). As a morticer, it's made casements and lightweight window frames, and I'm working up to some traditional household doors.

Mine is the older version with a lever instead of a handwheel, and. as it's not fixed to the bench, it's possible to forget you need the projection at the front, and get half way through and then need to nudge the morticer a bit further forward. I have mixed feelings about the raiser block - it works, but mine isn't ground exactly parallel and needs a shim (I use kitchen foil).

As a drill you often need greater "quill" travel than it has, but you only find out when you set the thing up. So I occasionally find I've got it all ready, only to have to go to the floor standing press after all (nuisance as it's some distance away from the workshop - lack of space). Still useful to have that ability.

Top tips:

1. Buy a sharpening kit and get the chisels razor sharp - it really helps accuracy and ease of use (jams a lot less). Polish the sides and ensure they taper very, very slightly so the cutting edge is the widest bit (forget the silly TiN coatings - they don't hurt but they don't add anything, either). I think it's also worth smoothing the inside of the chisel and taking sharp edges off the slot with rat's tail and needle files - it eases the passage of chippings, which reduces friction, keeps the cutting end cooler (it still gets hot in softwood), and I think gives you a more accurate cut.

2. Experiment with coins to find the right thickness to set up the chisel-auger spacing. I have a 2p piece with a hole drilled so I can hang it on the morticer (a rare-earth magnet would do just as well: "coppers" are actually steel!). It varies a bit with the wood and chisel size. I find softwood is the worst thing to cut as it jams easily.

3. Lubricate the chisel and auger. I get good results with Liberon machine wax and PTFE spray-on dry lubricants. The chippings need to move up and out of the slot easily. Set the chisel up with the slot to the left or right, not facing to or away from you. Thus, when you're deepening a defined mortice the slot faces back along the path that's been travelled, so the chippings can escape into the just-cut space as soon as possible. It all reduces strain on the motor and I think you get a better cut.

4. For the model I have, I've replaced the Bristol levers with short Allen bolts (M5, I think). They don't get in the way or get knocked loose. I've also ditched the black side covers as they serve no purpose and get in the way.

5. Glue some sandpaper to the clamp's flat plate. Works a treat (no pressure - literally!)

Given it cost about the same as a good SDS drill (1/4 that of the big Domino), I think it's great. It's the older version of this one and does 1/2" in softwood with no trouble at all (haven't tried larger):

 

[dzj]

Call me old fashioned but for external work I would not rely upon Dominoes and glue. A proper M&T wedged or pinned provides a mechanical joint long after the weather has caused the glue to fail. For internal work dominoes are brilliant.

Good, concise information!