I’m going to be building a few units that the ‘boss’ wants a colour matched paint sprayed finish. I’m going to use this as an excuse to have a go with Morrells paints. It’s for face panels on built in furniture, but before I approach Morrells I’d appreciate knowing people’s experience of the multitude of paints they offer. At the moment I’m thinking about Acid activated paint, but can’t find much in the data sheets about its durability or the PPE required. I will be using a FUJI Q4 HVLP system, but will invest in better kit if that’s what needed. Any advice on which paint is best, what you need to spray it and what sheen level is best would be appreciate.
Morrells best paint for MRMDF colour matched and spraying
- Thread starter deema
- Start date
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Ollie78
Established Member
Morrells acid cat is excellent paint it lays out really nicely, dries quick and is super durable.
However, it is quite horrible to deal with, you are supposed to have a full air fed respiration system really. You can get away with an ABEK spec mask if you are in a booth. The pre cat is almost as good but also almost as toxic.
I stopped using it and have been using water bourne for a while, mostly the Omnia for windows and stuff but I have used the water bourne laquer for a few things, I find they are fine once dry but they don`t flash off like a solvent based product so you have to be extra careful not to get any dust in there as it dries and its longer between coats, but much less nasty chemicals so that is the compromise.
I like a 60 percent which is sort of a satin, but beware as different manufacturers seem to have different methods of measuring sheen. Too shiny will show every mark and so will too matt which will show shiny marks so satin is best for most stuff.
I use a Kremlin air assisted airless but I am sure the Fuji will be fine, the morrells is quite liquid in comparison to some like Teknos which are like jelly.
Ollie
However, it is quite horrible to deal with, you are supposed to have a full air fed respiration system really. You can get away with an ABEK spec mask if you are in a booth. The pre cat is almost as good but also almost as toxic.
I stopped using it and have been using water bourne for a while, mostly the Omnia for windows and stuff but I have used the water bourne laquer for a few things, I find they are fine once dry but they don`t flash off like a solvent based product so you have to be extra careful not to get any dust in there as it dries and its longer between coats, but much less nasty chemicals so that is the compromise.
I like a 60 percent which is sort of a satin, but beware as different manufacturers seem to have different methods of measuring sheen. Too shiny will show every mark and so will too matt which will show shiny marks so satin is best for most stuff.
I use a Kremlin air assisted airless but I am sure the Fuji will be fine, the morrells is quite liquid in comparison to some like Teknos which are like jelly.
Ollie
the_g_ster
Established Member
If you can, go for Renner or Sayerlack (same as Sherwin Williams).
For Sayerlack, the primer is Au474 and topcoat is AT99. There is an optional cross linker that acts as a hardener for it.
For Renner, the paint is awesome you would need the Renner water based primer and then the 760/762 top coat.
Three primer coats
Sand post first primer coat
Sand post third coat of primer, using 320 grit
Corners all rounded with 240
One top coat, cross hatched.
You need the build of the primer, you will get grain raise, you will need to let it dry, the grain raise will subside, which is why you sand post 1st coat.
MDF edges sanded with 120 grit first, then 240.
If you need filler, use the 1k Morrels from sprayshop, in white, lovely stuff.
For Sayerlack, the primer is Au474 and topcoat is AT99. There is an optional cross linker that acts as a hardener for it.
For Renner, the paint is awesome you would need the Renner water based primer and then the 760/762 top coat.
Three primer coats
Sand post first primer coat
Sand post third coat of primer, using 320 grit
Corners all rounded with 240
One top coat, cross hatched.
You need the build of the primer, you will get grain raise, you will need to let it dry, the grain raise will subside, which is why you sand post 1st coat.
MDF edges sanded with 120 grit first, then 240.
If you need filler, use the 1k Morrels from sprayshop, in white, lovely stuff.
