Mitrelock Router cutters - Updated!
- Thread starter Richard Findley
- Start date
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Richard Findley
Established Member
Thanks for the info guys. The video makes it look easy enough. I'd worked out today that was how to take a series of lighter cuts. I'll be interested to see pictures of your sled though.
Thanks,
Richard
Thanks,
Richard
There is a video on Mitre lock bit set-up on Stu's Shed (you can access it via the Aussie Woodforums) and another tutorial on the Woodshop Demos site. I bought one of the Axminster "Perform" mitrelock bits with a box maling project in mind but the TUIT hasn't arrived yet, so I haven't had a chance to put what I've learned into practice yet.
Ooooher! Doing that in one pass in hardwood is a no go for me!
And if you look at Stu's video where he holds the first two pieces he's machined together you will see that he has lost the knife edge on one piece. The inevitable result in my experience of doing the job without some form of sled.
Some additional thoughts.
I do not wish to put anyone off of using these cutters, for thin sections they are a massive improvement over a straight mitre, but both of those videos give a very false idea of doing the job.
Firstly, both men are cutting with the grain. Personally I have never made a box joined along the grain, neither have I made one with that sort of proportions.
From my own experience.
A small box, say 100mm X 200mm X 50mm. The mitres will be cut across the end gran.
Now the small cutters are about 40 mm in dia, so that is the smallest gap in the fence, you try feeding 50mm past that!
I've taken some pics of my set up and, hopefully, I will be able to post them tomorrow.
Roy.
And if you look at Stu's video where he holds the first two pieces he's machined together you will see that he has lost the knife edge on one piece. The inevitable result in my experience of doing the job without some form of sled.
Some additional thoughts.
I do not wish to put anyone off of using these cutters, for thin sections they are a massive improvement over a straight mitre, but both of those videos give a very false idea of doing the job.
Firstly, both men are cutting with the grain. Personally I have never made a box joined along the grain, neither have I made one with that sort of proportions.
From my own experience.
A small box, say 100mm X 200mm X 50mm. The mitres will be cut across the end gran.
Now the small cutters are about 40 mm in dia, so that is the smallest gap in the fence, you try feeding 50mm past that!
I've taken some pics of my set up and, hopefully, I will be able to post them tomorrow.
Roy.
dicktimber
Established Member
Roy
Spot ON with your last comments.
I hadn't realised that both parts were machined with the grain.
Look forward to the photos.
Mikee
Spot ON with your last comments.
I hadn't realised that both parts were machined with the grain.
Look forward to the photos.
Mikee
After a long struggle with Tiny Pic, finally some images.
This is the table clamped in my bench vice and viewed from the rear showing the fence adjustment.
Setting the cutter height.
And here from the front with the sled, current model, in position.
Same view but with a demo piece of timber clamped to the sled.
Now the table has been turned through 90 degrees so that the fence is horizontal as it makes handling the workpiece much easier.
Measuring the height of the cutter.
Now the sled is running along the now horizontal fence.
Rear view with the fence horizontal showing how the router is fastened into place.
The height of the cutter through the table is fixed for a given thickness of timber and the cut adjusted for both directions by moving the fence.
Hope this all makes sense!
Roy.
This is the table clamped in my bench vice and viewed from the rear showing the fence adjustment.
Setting the cutter height.
And here from the front with the sled, current model, in position.
Same view but with a demo piece of timber clamped to the sled.
Now the table has been turned through 90 degrees so that the fence is horizontal as it makes handling the workpiece much easier.
Measuring the height of the cutter.
Now the sled is running along the now horizontal fence.
Rear view with the fence horizontal showing how the router is fastened into place.
The height of the cutter through the table is fixed for a given thickness of timber and the cut adjusted for both directions by moving the fence.
Hope this all makes sense!
Roy.
Mike Wingate
Established Member
Nice solution Digit. I have 2 MLCS bits and one CMT bit. I made dozens of boxes in 12mm MDF just using a simple fence. Multiple passes, no sled. Watch the video on http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... miter.html
If your wood is a constant thickness, and the parts are the correct length, no probs. Now I have an Incra fence and router lift, he process is so much faster.I use a long length of timber, route the joint, then cut to size on the radial arm saw. Routing a long board is safer and more productive. Save an off cut for a setup template.
If your wood is a constant thickness, and the parts are the correct length, no probs. Now I have an Incra fence and router lift, he process is so much faster.I use a long length of timber, route the joint, then cut to size on the radial arm saw. Routing a long board is safer and more productive. Save an off cut for a setup template.
Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi Digit,
Thanks for going to all the trouble to post those - sounds like you've had a right job there!!!
I think I'm going to go for it. Looks like you've got the Perform cutter there and I have an Axminster order I need to send off that is a bit short of the free delivery so I'll add it on and see how it goes. I will post my results (good or bad!!!)
Thanks everyone for your input!
Richard
Thanks for going to all the trouble to post those - sounds like you've had a right job there!!!
I think I'm going to go for it. Looks like you've got the Perform cutter there and I have an Axminster order I need to send off that is a bit short of the free delivery so I'll add it on and see how it goes. I will post my results (good or bad!!!)
Thanks everyone for your input!
Richard
Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi all,
Just ot update you on how I got on with the cutter... It works!!!
See here to read about the project I used it on: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38589
My first effort was ok, I followed the advice on one of the links previously posted which said to alternate the cuts to give most strength to the finished article (ie, one end of the board machined flat on the table, the other vertical against the fence) the problem with this is that you can't effectivly cramp it up so I stuck to machining each board the same way and this worked a treat. First on a bit of pine and then on the actual Oak box.
Thanks again for all of your thoughts and tips and links.
Cheers,
Richard
Just ot update you on how I got on with the cutter... It works!!!
See here to read about the project I used it on: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=38589
My first effort was ok, I followed the advice on one of the links previously posted which said to alternate the cuts to give most strength to the finished article (ie, one end of the board machined flat on the table, the other vertical against the fence) the problem with this is that you can't effectivly cramp it up so I stuck to machining each board the same way and this worked a treat. First on a bit of pine and then on the actual Oak box.
Thanks again for all of your thoughts and tips and links.
Cheers,
Richard
