Mitred Box Clamping

[wizer]

Hi

I was doing some test cuts for a box today and I realised I'm not clamp savvy in this area. I have a picture frame band clamp, but this is only useful at the bottom of the box.

So should I buy another band clamp thingy or is there a better way to get the box clamped up without the mitres slipping?

T I A

 

[OPJ]

Hi Tom. I don't have any photo's of this but, I worked successfully for me at college last year. So, I'll try and have a go at explaining it...

First of all, you start with the masking tape trick and 'roll it up' (I think you already know this part? :wink.

Next, get four lengths of aluminium angle (the 90º stuff) and place one on each corner. You can then use your strap or band clamps (ratchet ones are good). Depending on the height of your box, two can be better than one.

What I actually did at college on another shallow box was to place two loose loops of string around the box with two triangular-shaped blocks of wood for each of the four sides (there should be plenty of slack with the string). The idea is that, with the flat faces against the box sides, as you spread the wooden blocks, it basically tightens everything up (no, I don't have a photo' of this one either ).

Most important thing of all though, as with any glue up, is to do a dry-run first!! :wink:

 

[wizer]

I advised someone on here the other day to use the masking tape trick and I completely forgot it in the workshop today! :roll:

Thanks for reminding me. I was using one band clamp at the bottom and then quick clamps at the top, but the mitres were sliding about, I think another band clamp would be better.

I'm not going to rush this one, it's all testing stuff atm. It's going well so far.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Tom,

Have a look at Rob's (Woodbloke's) latest blog entry - a good method there :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[wizer]

cheers Paul, just had a look.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Tom
Are you planning to use any kind of reinforcing, such as splines?

If you are using long splines, hidden inside the joint, then this is of no use to you, but if you are planning to saw cross-splines, to create a sort of box-joint look, then I would use Mitre Fast or one of the other proprietary CA glues and just hold the joint together by hand.

It's not phenomenally strong by itself, but it is strong enough to allow you to handle it enough to cut the splines, after which it will be very robust.

Just a thought.

S

 

[JonnyD]

i usually use a combination of masking tape and a pair of bessey band clamps. The clamps pull everthing together very nicely. I also use some clamping cauls sometimes to pull mitres together they are basically 25mm mdf pieces with a V groove machined in them clamped onto the work and then you can pull the joint together with G or F clamps probably a bit much for a small box.

Jon

 

[wizer]

Cheers Steve, I hadn't thought of CA glue. In fact, I was more thinking of a much slower glue to give me time to triple check it's all lined up. But I see where your coming from. If the dry fit s good then I'll consider it. I am indeed thinking of using cross type splines.

Jonny: I was just looking at the Bessey band clamp, but they are more than double the price of your common or garden type. Do you think they are worth the extra?

 

[JonnyD]

Hi Wizer the Besseys are very good you can exert a lot of pressure with them. I have a couple of cheaper ones but always reach for the Besseys. Because of the adjustable foot on the Besseys you can clamp up hexagons and octagons as well. I would say they are worth the money.

Jon

 

[wizer]

That's enough persuasion for me

Thanks

 

[katellwood]

Wizer

Why not go back to basics and use a winlass and four corner blocks, they are easy to cut on the bandsaw and can be easily tightened with a it of dowel or stick