Mitre Lock Router Bit

[phil p]

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can get a mitre lock router bit.

It's only for a one off job really, and it's nothing fancy, therefore I'm just after a cheapie, however the one's Ive looked at (mainly on Fleabay) are only for 12.7 thickness timber.

I'm after one for 18mm thickness and noticed Trend do one however it's edging towards 50 quid and go want to go that high.

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[Doug B]

Any use Mitre Lock Jointer
if you can drop your material thickness to 16mm then closer to £40 though a quick google suggests £47 is pretty cheap for that size cutter & at that size I definitely wouldn’t want to be standing by a cheapo Chinese cutter spinning round.

 

[Rob_Mc]

If you are not in a hurry you can get one delivered from China via Ali Express for under £11.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

[TRITON]

Careful setting up is recommended, so prep some scrap the same thickness and fiddle and fettle till its spot on, but remember to recheck after a while as cutters can slip.

 

[PerryGunn]

If you are not in a hurry you can get one delivered from China via Ali Express for under £11.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
View attachment 104482

Wow, that's a big shank, don't think I've got a collet for that!

 

[Doug B]

Wow, that's a big shank, don't think I've got a collet for that!

That’s wider than the plate in my router table

 

[Amateur]

For what it's worth.
I tried these cutters some years ago but the setting up took me for ever and you have to follow the safety precautions and jigs required when changing to cutting using the router fence or you could be in serious trouble, especially when cutting narrow stock.
There is no forgiveness for errors.
Whatever your joining must be exactly square and parallel or you will not produce a sharp corner, and exactly the same thickness.
I found that some wood species will tend to rip while routing the wood.... at the feathered edge.
Doing a dry assembly of a box section can result in being unable to get it apart again to apply glue.
Depending on your skill level it could be easier using a different method to achieve your desired result.
These are my own personal views. Other people may have found them an invaluable way to cut 90 degree joints.

 

[Droogs]

@phil p, if you are after a 1/4" shank cutter, i can post you one of mine (wealdon) down to use if you're doing a small one off and then just send it back after. PM me if you want it

 

[recipio]

Ditto. I take it you do not have a 1/2" collet router .? If so, try and get an 8mm shank cutter ( available on Amazon for about £14. ) as that will let you do wood up to 24 mm thick.They are the devil to set up and you need to make a jig to pass the vertical component across the cutter at right angles, sliding on the fence if you can. To set the height use the long sides of two rectangles of scrap wood that you propose to use and cut profiles until they sit absolutely flush together. Use a slip of wood on the outfeed side to prevent breakout of the grain. Measure the height of the bit from the table and keep a record for further set ups. When done properly they produce a very satisfactory joint but are a bit tedious to set up.

 

[phil p]

Thanks everyone for your replies, and in particular a shout out to Droogs for his very kind offer.

I have been practicing today with some scraps and a chamfer bit in the router table and got pretty close to a half decent joint, nowhere near as good as what the mitre lock bit would have done of course, however it was good enough for my needs so that'll do it for me.

The joint just needs a very light sand where the 2 edges meet to take out a tiny imperfection.

Thanks again for the advice, it's appreciated.

 

[MCTWoodwork]

I used to be a fan of Rutlands.com but like others have said on here that it tends to be a race to bottom using their stuff...but better than 50 quid I suppose. Just a thought for a one off job.