mitre cutting

[Digit]

Or a table saw! :lol:

Roy.

 

[theturner]

Or a table saw! :lol:

Roy.

Plus a Kreg system no probs. what ever angle you want. =D>
Roger.

 

[woodbloke]

One of the best shooting boards I've seen is the one made by Pete (Newt). You can shoot most things with that one

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I've made several of Pete's shooters and one like this is currently the one I'm using. With all the attachments it'll do pretty much any mitring job that's lobbed at it...even LN 51's work well on it :mrgreen: I my experience, tablesaurs like wot most of us have in our 'shops simply aren't accurate enough to cut a set of mitres for a frame...to be really accurate they need to be shot in exactly and a shoot of some sort is the only way to do it.
If you have an Altendorf panel saw or similar tucked away in a corner of your 'shop, then it's doable but it's a moot point with anything at home workshop level - Rob

 

[Steve Maskery]

A well-tuned TS, ZCI and a fine blade will produce gluable joints straight off the saw. But, excellent thought that is, it's an expensive fix for the OP! Given his present position, I think a good set of shooting boards is his best option.
S

 

[srt]

Thanks for all your advice guys i think the shooting board is the way to go i just do hobby work so i wont be splashing out on jigs.When i was cutting the base which is 140mm it never cut it true would a radial arm saw be more accurate for this type of cutting in oak/hardwoods?

 

[tomatwark]

The one question that has not been asked is what make of mitre saw the OP has.

If it is one of the cheaper ones it will never be accurate.

Also if it has bounced around in the back of a van on and off site it will probably be out.

If you have a good quality saw which has not been abused it is possible, but even then there will be some fiddling around to get the set up right and it is often quicker to cut them somewhere near and adjust them by hand, unless you have a saw bench which is set upright.

I am lucky to have a panel saw which is spot square and the length spots a correct, but I still always check the angle when I tilt the blade because even a small build up of dust in the saw can stop the blade tilting to fully 45 degrees and prevent the mitres being accurate enough for boxes.

Once set I can knock them out on the saw, but if it is just one box it is often quicker to adjust them by hand.

A slightest gap will show especially on light woods such as Sycamore or Maple.

As has already been said mitres are difficult.

Tom

 

[srt]

The one question that has not been asked is what make of mitre saw the OP has.

If it is one of the cheaper ones it will never be accurate.

Also if it has bounced around in the back of a van on and off site it will probably be out.

If you have a good quality saw which has not been abused it is possible, but even then there will be some fiddling around to get the set up right and it is often quicker to cut them somewhere near and adjust them by hand, unless you have a saw bench which is set upright.

I am lucky to have a panel saw which is spot square and the length spots a correct, but I still always check the angle when I tilt the blade because even a small build up of dust in the saw can stop the blade tilting to fully 45 degrees and prevent the mitres being accurate enough for boxes.

Once set I can knock them out on the saw, but if it is just one box it is often quicker to adjust them by hand.

A slightest gap will show especially on light woods such as Sycamore or Maple.

As has already been said mitres are difficult.

Tom

Hi its an Hitachi mitre saw that i have i wish i never bought it to be honest i think i would have been better off with a good second hand ras but you live and learn!

 

[RogerP]

With the K G Wells type board where the plane is held at 45 degrees the expensive wonky handled Lie Nielsen No. 51 Shooting Board Plane is redundant.

By cutting from alternately from each side of the table saw blade errors are compensated. Here is one method of making a sled (sorry it's the usual American 'elf 'n safety standards).

 

[andersonec]

You can also draw an accurate 45 degree with the use of a straight edge, a compass and some simple geometry.

Image is a mitre cut on a table saw

Andy

 

[woodbloke]

With the K G Wells type board where the plane is held at 45 degrees the expensive wonky handled Lie Nielsen No. 51 Shooting Board Plane is redundant.

Ever tried one? On an ordinary shoot it's the best plane I've ever used, far better even than a LN No9. If you're going to the AxBash in a few weeks you might be able to try one and then the penny will drop :wink: :lol: - Rob

 

[katellwood]

Ever tried one? On an ordinary shoot it's the best plane I've ever used, far better even than a LN No9. If you're going to the AxBash in a few weeks you might be able to try one and then the penny will drop - Rob

But what if you're left handed, were discriminated against again

 

[woodbloke]

Ever tried one? On an ordinary shoot it's the best plane I've ever used, far better even than a LN No9. If you're going to the AxBash in a few weeks you might be able to try one and then the penny will drop - Rob

But what if you're left handed, were discriminated against again

There's a left handed version in the pipeline :wink: - Rob

 

[andersonec]

With the K G Wells type board where the plane is held at 45 degrees the expensive wonky handled Lie Nielsen No. 51 Shooting Board Plane is redundant.

Ever tried one? On an ordinary shoot it's the best plane I've ever used, far better even than a LN No9. If you're going to the AxBash in a few weeks you might be able to try one and then the penny will drop :wink: :lol: - Rob

And at 450 squids that is one expensive mitre

Andy

 

[Harbo]

Here's one of the longer types, but I generally use the Pete Newton version:

Rod

 

[MickCheese]

I recently realised I need to construct a mitre shooting board so a bit of a search found this thread where within I found the Link to the Alf's Cornish Workshop site. I have just printed out the article written by K.G. Wells. It made me think, what would he be thinking if he knew I was referring to it some 50 odd years later. And, who was K.G.Wells? Was he a well know writer for the magazine?

Congratulations Mr Wells, you stood the test of time.

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/wwmitreshootingboard.html

Mick

 

[Steve Maskery]

Mick
I have that exact same SB, only mine is faced with Formica for extra ease. In fact I was looking at it only this last weekend, as I was hanging up a few more things that had been lying around for too long. It's looking very shabby now and I was trying to remember how I made it. It's not adjustable so it must be made accurately.
I'm pretty sure that I didn't get it from Mr Wells though, much more likely to have been Bob Wearing.
It is an excellent design, it works really well.

 

[MickCheese]

Steve

It just struck me as a little poignant that I was printing out using my iPad and AirPrint a copy of an article in a woodworking magazine written in 1964. It just got me thinking, what the author would have thought of that when he wrote it all those years ago.

It's on my todo list.

Mick

 

[Steve Maskery]

Indeed. The past is a foreign country, or whatever the phrase is. Back then there were no routers (well I think they may have been invented, but they were not widespread), no dominoes, no BJs, no cordless tools.
So what will woodworking look like in another 52 years time?

 

[RogerP]

Here's one of the longer types, but I generally use the Pete Newton version:
Rod

More or less a smaller version of the one I made.
I use a heavy 22" wooden plane with it, lots of inertia gives a very clean cut.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I agree about the iPad - a world where pre-war Wadkin kit is valued more highly too!

Meanwhile...

[DQA*]

Looking at both Rob's MB and the one in the article, it seems to me that the lower edge of the plane just runs on the flat surface parallel to the bench top. Is that right, or is there a groove or something else to index it that I can't see?

I'm missing something - hopefully a bit more than grey cells.

I'm aiming to make the same design myself - pre-Christmas frame making reminded me I haven't got the knack of getting a dead-true mitre straight off the mitre saw, and my old shooting board long ago died of damp (the main bit was chipboard - not a bright idea!).

E.

*Dumb Question Alert.