Mistake- how to fix this?

[bp122]

So I have been making a large picture frame with a cross-not-quite- halving-joints

Three out of four corners are very satisfactory for my first attempt, but the fourth one (the first one I did on the router table) went a bit wrong.

Since it was essentially a wide dado, I was using my mitre fence to move the stock for material removal.
It was set to cut 3.5mm on the first pass and the router bit pulled or pushed the workpiece and caused it to go off the line and on to the good side.


It is very small, you can see it in the pic below.


Few ideas I had were:
1. Some sort of a filler that I don't know anything about

2. Cut a wider bit off of that area and bed in a similar piece (I do have some) bit this being Oak with slanted grain, it will be obvious and difficult to match the lines

3. Use very thin walnut pieces on either side of all the four joints to make it a "feature"

4. Something else that I don't know that one of you could enlighten me.

Thank you.

 

[Sandyn]

Can you straighten the squint cut, then take a corresponding amount off the top part and the left ends, make it 1.5mm narrower?

 

[TheTiddles]

Not easy to fix that. You could graft on a piece and re-cut if you have a matching grain sample offcut
Aidan

 

[moosepig]

3. Use very thin walnut pieces on either side of all the four joints to make it a "feature"

This would be my approach. Make the mistake bigger - but straight - then plug with a contrasting wood.

It has the advantage of allowing you to get it wrong a few more times before you cut your feature inserts which can then be planed/sanded for a very precise fit.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

This would be my approach. Make the mistake bigger - but straight - then plug with a contrasting wood.

It has the advantage of allowing you to get it wrong a few more times before you cut your feature inserts which can then be planed/sanded for a very precise fit.

I would do essentially the same thing except instead of making the mistake sections straight I would make them tapered because then you can fit a plug very much more easily as you can tap it home into the “mistake“ whereas with a straight cut you have to get the size precisely correct. The effect from the front would look like a wedged tenon. With that method you can almost guarantee a correct fit first time as you can cut the excess of on both sides.

 

[joshvegas]

If its only 3.5mm does the notch het deeper? Could you chamfer the edges all round to make the back pieces 'dip' below the front ones?

 

[bp122]

If its only 3.5mm does the notch het deeper? Could you chamfer the edges all round to make the back pieces 'dip' below the front ones?

The error is only 3.5mm deep. Good idea though. I'm considering it.

Although now I'm thinking of another option as well. Instead of cuting out and laying in a piece, I thought of adding a thin bevel piece and make it flush with the higher member. That way I won't have to test my skill of cutting out a section. Thoughts?

 

[marcros]

how thick is the timber? I would suggest planing down the cross pieces by 3.5mm so that the verticals stand proud. you could dowel the point where they cross to make it look like it is pegged.

 

[bp122]

how thick is the timber? I would suggest planing down the cross pieces by 3.5mm so that the verticals stand proud. you could dowel the point where they cross to make it look like it is pegged.

It is just shy of 20mm. Not sure I can plane that much as it is already glued

 

[marcros]

It is just shy of 20mm. Not sure I can plane that much as it is already glued

Oh sorry, I didn't realise it was glued. That won't work then.

 

[Valhalla]

I would do the same as @moosepig suggested - make it a feature by adding a nice curved inlay of some sort on all or opposing sides - add more interest

 

[MARK.B.]

Maybe a wax restoration stick to fill the gap

 

[bp122]

I would do the same as @moosepig suggested - make it a feature by adding a nice curved inlay of some sort on all or opposing sides - add more interest

This is looking like the most viable option based on my limited skillset

 

[Cabinetman]

I would do the same as @moosepig suggested - make it a feature by adding a nice curved inlay of some sort on all or opposing sides - add more interest

Sorry to introduce a different topic but just need to know how you do that" @moosepig" thing. Been looking for ages. Ian
Just answered my own question, didn’t realise it was that simple! Doh!!

 

[bp122]

Maybe a wax restoration stick to fill the gap

Ah, the wax sticks. I have seen them in a few websites. How do you know which one is the right colour to get? Do you buy a set and try different ones on an "inconspicuous" area?
And what is the best brand to get?

 

[MARK.B.]

You can get single sticks but i got a set, not cheap but not quite an arm or a leg pricey. To get the right match it usual to blend two or more together. If you are lucky a single colour will do it, i never got that lucky . If you don't like the result you simply scrape the wax back out and start again.

 

[Nelly111s]

Could you run a V groove cutter over the mistake and do it on all the other 3 joints? Emphasise the joint line (like you would with panelling)?

 

[bp122]

Could you run a V groove cutter over the mistake and do it on all the other 3 joints? Emphasise the joint line (like you would with panelling)?

I could, but I am not that confident with hand held router and didn't want to mess it up further.

I have added some walnut pieces last night and glued them. Will share a pic tonight.

 

[bp122]

This was my idea. It hasn't been perfect, but I guess I ran out of talent

My first ever picture frame and a first "artistic fix" of an error.

Hopefully I will learn to minimize errors in the future and or get better at fixing them.