Minimax LAB300 / LAB260 or Hammer combis?

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Scrit

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I know that one or two of our members have the above combination machines. Would someone like to comment on the hazards, pitfalls and pleasures of owning them? For example how easy/quick is it to swap from sawing to spindle (pr vice versa), is it possible to do a plane-rip saw-plane-ripsaw cycle (for production of mouldings, etc), how easy is it to mount a power feeder, etc. Interested in having one of these to equip a small shop. Basic work would be predominently light joinery/building maintainance with some furniture pieces from time to time as well as the odd farm gate and shed or two. The shop already has a Startrite 352 bandsaw and a cast-iron square chisel mortiser in place, but is only 500 square feet.

I've already ruled out the Maxi 26 (too small, poor rip fence), the Roblands (to awkward - slow/impossible change-overs) and anything smaller than a 10/12in planer. Any thoughts about the Hammer route (Felder is outside of budget)?

Scrit
 
Thanks for your input, Jacob. Anyone with a Hammer (or even a Felder) care to add to the discussion? (please.....)

Scrit
 
Didn't someone on here have trouble with their Hammer - particularly the after sales service when they found something wasn't square/rigid? Dunno, perhaps worth a search?

Adam
 
I have a Hammer half-combi (B3 Comfort), and separate P/T (A3-311), having previously owned a Robland full combi.

Overall I am very pleased that I switched, not just because separating the P/T mean that there is less time wasted switching the functions over (rip-plane-rip operations were just not on with the Robland), but also because the Hammer tables and fences are so much easier to adjust for parallel/perpendicular as appropriate. Also particularly good are the (optional) digital handwheel guages for the Spindle and Thicknesser Table heights.

Downsides?

On the saw/spindle the rip fence can be slid off to the end of the table and flipped over to get it out of the way (threading it back on if you take it right off is a little fiddly) but the mounting casting sticks up above the table level, so gets in the way if cross cutting long pieces.

On the P/T the catches that are supposed to stop the tables from falling from the up position do not always work automatically, as they catch on the surrounding mechanism. The securing knob for the guard behing the fence needed pruning down before it would fit in place. The Thicknesser table moves a bit too much for my liking when under load, but that doesn't seem to affect the accuracy, it just looks wrong.

But these are minor niggles really.

One thing you might need to look out for is that all the extraction outlets are 120mm, so you may need to re-work your plumbing a bit if repalcing macines that have 100mm fittings.


I have found the customer care to be good, to the point of them having an engineer from Austria phone me (within the hour) to talk me through a problem I had when the 45 deg. stop on the saw tilt fell off. That was very difficult to get back on.
 
Thanks for your input Nick

Have you found any problems with the saw rip fence at all? I've read on some US sites that Hammer revised the design to increase the rigidity of the fence, but never seen any reports of problems here.

Scrit
 
Scrit,

No probs with the rip fence, but on the Comfort it is a more substantial piece of kit than was standard (my machines are 3 years old now, and in the old blue livery which shows the blood better should you get bits of yourself tangled in the machinery - how are you going to know now? :lol: ). I believe that the fences have changed a bit on the more recent kit anyway.

Just had a look at their web site, and it looks like all except the basic model have the same fence as mine.
 
Nick W":1o1slp6u said:
- how are you going to know now? :lol: ). I believe that the fences have changed a bit on the more recent kit anyway.
I suppose you just have to be careful and drip on the red bits whlst avoiding the stone coloured parts...... :lol:

Once again, thanks for your input

Scrit
 

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