Mike's finger joint jig

[MikeG.]

This is what it can do with the right size cutter. This is just an old box I made from ply for storing stuff in the workshop:

So, don't dismiss the idea too soon.........I bet I would do, say, 6 drawers far, far quicker than someone using a Woodrat, because I can do all of the pieces in one go which I don't think is possible with the WR.

Mike

 

[Benchwayze]

Nice jig idea Mike. And a neat joint too.
I think it is possible to batch-cut on the WR.
At least Martin Godfrey showed some batch-cut tails in the video I had.

But I stand ready to be corrected of course.
Thanks Mike
John

 

[woodsworth]

I don't dismiss the idea at all. It is a good idea. But the WR can definitely do batch jobs. Maybe not six boxes all at once but one box for sure. If it is a thin box a lot more. For those who think you have to devote a whole wall to the woodrat can think again as well. I have two clips on the front of my saw drill station that i clip it on when i need it. It gets stored up on the top of a shelf when i don't need it. So it doesn't take up any space at all.

 

[Benchwayze]

I think WW is trying to convince me to get a Woodrat... :shock:


Where it would go in my shop, I have timber racks.. Hmmmm... Looks like I'll need a shed after all.

John

 

[MikeG.]

Mike how is the jig actually made? Is there a trick to getting the spacing right?

Sorry Tom, I didn't mean to ignore you, but I missed this post somehow.

Truthfully, I can't remember! It must be 15 years old at least. Looking at it I wouldn't be surprised if I made the initial cuts on the RAS, routed out the waste, and eased the fit with a block of wood and some sandpaper.....but I also wouldn't be surprised if I did it another way entirely. The trick is obviously in the marking, which has to be absolutely spot on.

Mike

 

[wizer]

thanks Mike, I think

I am planning on making a stool with box joint corners (I think it's a copy of a design I saw on here). But I think I'm just going to hand cut them.

 

[MikeG.]

Good idea Tom. For a one-off that is just fine. These things only come into their own when there are batches to be done.

Mike

 

[Benchwayze]

Tom,

Usually I make the fingers equal to the thickness of the stuff.
It's also 'good' to have no half-fingers (if possible), so that kind of dictates the depth of your box. (Or the depth of the box dictates the number of fingers!)

You could always cut the fingers on a bandsaw using a stop, to get the right depth. (Easier than bandsawing dovetails.) But mark the waste so you don't finish up with 'mirror-image' pieces. ) Then hand-chisel the waste awy.

HTH.

John

 

[wizer]

Thanks John. I was thinking that hand cut box joints is good dovetail practice, i.e sawing to the line. I know I could just get on with practising dovetails, but I actually do want to use box joints on a couple of projects.

 

[Mr Ed]

I've handcut quite a few, large and small, and I reckon it takes some beating for both speed and accuracy.

Ed

 

[MikeG.]

Be extra careful with your marking out, though, because there are no tails and pins to give you a clue which side of the line is waste.

Mike

 

[Mr Ed]

Drawing some little X's in the waste has always been enough to remind me.

Ed

 

[Benchwayze]

Good idea Tom,

The finger joint does tend to get 'looked down upon'. But if it's suitable for the job then use it, is my way of looking at it.

Thousands of old GPO battery-boxes are still going strong and the finger-joint was all that was used for them!

John

 

[MikeG.]

The fact is that glues are so good these days that a finger joint is a fantastic long-lasting joint. In the days of less efficient glues, dovetails had the advantage of a mechanical "lock" in one direction. I've done countless finger joints over 30 years and never had any sort of failure.

Mike

 

[Benchwayze]

The fact is that glues are so good these days that a finger joint is a fantastic long-lasting joint. In the days of less efficient glues, dovetails had the advantage of a mechanical "lock" in one direction. I've done countless finger joints over 30 years and never had any sort of failure.

Mike

And if you really do want a mechanical lock, you can always put in a brass screw at each corner, cut them off and polish them flush!


John