MFT hinge parts list/how to

[HDC83]

8040 swivel bearing SKU 3842532209

Swivel Bearings - Joint Connections - BR Range

X2 M8 clamping leaver SKU 3842516847
Clamping Lever M8x40

200mm BR 4080 10mm slot aluminium profile with D17VD17V drilling to suit swivel bearing

225mm BR 4080 10mm slot aluminium profile

40 X 80L Aluminium profile
X2 cutting bushes SKU KJN09308801

To allow the use of m8 countersunk bolts in the end of BR 4080 profile

CUTTING BUSH
X2 M8 slide block SKU KJN528735

Only need 2 but you can only order in packs of 10 these are for up and down locking using the clamping lever

M8 SLIDE BLOCK



Slotted block profile SKU KJN51007

This is for clamping the guide rail onto the hinge plate

Slotted Block Profile/ 1500

X8 Sliders SKU KJN530329
Slider

Alternatively these you can use 2 of these Slider, slot 10 mm flat lockable | Bosch Rexroth AG instead of badly notching them like I did. Not seen them available to order online tho.
I’m thinking of getting some sliders 3D printed as the ones I got are not 100 percent flat took some adjusting to get the profile to run smooth


X8 m6x12mm countersunk screws

X24 m5x20mm countersunk screws

X2 m8x20mm countersunk screws

X1 m5x6mm cap headed screw(nylon)

X3 m6x12mm cap headed screws


The plates are 10mm for the backplate and 6mm for hinge/strike plate.

This pic shows my dimensions I gave to local water jet service.

After some fettling with a disc sander I had the edges smooth. I’m having these done again with a cnc router as not happy with the accuracy of the water jet. I could if I was careful enough it could be drilled with drill press.


I tapped the 4mm holes to m5 then countersunk the sliders to bolt them to the plate.

Got a 500mm piece of 40x40 5mm thick aluminium angle and cut 4 at 80mm long.

Had to notch 2 sliders for the slide block and clamping leaver

I then slid the 4080 profile over the sliders and clamped down offered up another slider used some double sided tape to hold the slider on the angle to allow me to drill through and tap.

done that for both sides then clamped it all together to drill the hole to secure the angle to the backplate with a countersunk m6 screw.

On the hinge plate the 6mm holes 120mm apart drill out to 6.8 to be tapped to m8.

Had to cut down the bolts that came with the swivel bearings to be flush with the plate. Used the supplied connection to bolt profile to swivel I had to use some locktite to the swivel to keep it at the correct tension as kept loosening.

I cut a piece of slotted block profile to 140 and drilled and tapped to m6 to suit the holes in the plate. Then ground the sides to fit in the slot off the rail.

 

[HDC83]

With the 225 profile inserted the cutting bushes in the end these take the m12 hole to m8.

On the striking plate the 8mm hole were countersunk to suit 2 m8 screws.

The 4 mm hole tapped to m5 for a cap headed bolt turned on a lathe to suit the rail. I have ordered some nylon m5 bolts as @smackie suggested

Use the 8mm holes in the backplate to secure to your bench.
Any questions please ask

thanks
Curt

 

[smackie]

Curt,

Thank you very much for taking the time to do this! The hinge and mounts look far more substantial than either of the commercial options. Construction will have to wait until I get access back to machine tools but this is an invaluable list.

Cheers!

 

[smackie]

One note - I‘ve had luck in the past using the Festool joining bars (Festool 484455 for connecting two rails together) as rail mounting guides for jigs. I removed the grub screws and mounted thumb screws instead that went thru the jig plate. You loosened the thumb screws, slid the rail on to the joining bar and tightened the jig on to the rail.

The joining bar is obviously designed for alignment so the tolerances seemed to work well for this for me.

 

[HDC83]

One note - I‘ve had luck in the past using the Festool joining bars (Festool 484455 for connecting two rails together) as rail mounting guides for jigs. I removed the grub screws and mounted thumb screws instead that went thru the jig plate. You loosened the thumb screws, slid the rail on to the joining bar and tightened the jig on to the rail.

The joining bar is obviously designed for alignment so the tolerances seemed to work well for this for me.

I had thought about the joiner bar and it would definitely work and save drilling a tapping(I broke a tap) and grinding the slotted block. For me it saved me so dosh as I needed the slotted block profile for another project and still have another 1m for more projects.