Metabo BAS 317 Replacement Tire

[NiallMcc]

Hi all,

I've recently bought a used Metabo BAS 317 and it looks like the top tire needs replacing on it. The original tire seems to have been glued in place so I'll need to remove and scrape all the glue off before replacing it. My question is can I replace the original rubber tire with a polyurethane one? I don't want to have to get into the hassle of having to glue a new tire onto it.

I've included photos of the wheel and tire for reference.

Thanks in advance

*Edit: Apologies if any of the above info is wrong, this is my first bandsaw tire I've replaced so not too sure what I'm doing.

 

[BradyS]

Hi all,

I've recently bought a used Metabo BAS 317 and it looks like the top tire needs replacing on it. The original tire seems to have been glued in place so I'll need to remove and scrape all the glue off before replacing it. My question is can I replace the original rubber tire with a polyurethane one? I don't want to have to get into the hassle of having to glue a new tire onto it.

I've included photos of the wheel and tire for reference.

Thanks in advance

*Edit: Apologies if any of the above info is wrong, this is my first bandsaw tire I've replaced so not too sure what I'm doing.

Good evening. I will let the more experienced members post here but I'll just add a personal opinion. I'm not sure scraping is the best idea. In theory you should be able to melt the glue with a heat gun, making cleaning much effective. Again, not having enough experience and not knowing what type of glue is used, I can't give you a recommendation, but hopefully our colleagues can.

 

[baldkev]

I replaced the tyres on a kity 613, they had deteriorated badly when i bought it. I used a sharp chisel to remove most of the old ones, then acetone to finish the job ( wear goggles )

If the tyres are flat ( not crowned ) then yep the blue or orange ones often found on ebay should be fine.. one important thing is to measure the thickness of the existing tyres, you'll need to match the thickness.

 

[Ttrees]

I'd sooner get thicker ones if you've got adjustability for it...
Beware of cinching down those zinc guide castings, (worst metal known to man)
should they still be present, that's if you are going for thicker tires.
IIRC it's the same machine as the EB 315, could be wrong.

No point in getting just one when it's that perished,as stretch on tires aren't made of proper vulcanized rubber.
Seemingly to me, those OEM tires are pants, though I haven't paid real attention to the machine,

My 2cents, look around and see the performance from similar sized machines, usually weight is one
of the best comparisons, something without near solid cast iron wheels, obviously of the same size and same HP, for an honest comparison.
Some a lot more impressive than others, if you can find equivalent...

@G S Haydon (face edge woodworking) recently uploaded one of those annoying "short" utubes
But he did give an honest demo of the cut.....
(something what's edited out or sped up on most videos), which is not honest.

Gotta say that old Record machine made easy work resawing that ash plank.
I'd inquire, poke poke Graham,
Not saying replacements would suit per se, just an observation of not seeing good performance from machines with thin tires,
and which could be an absolute load of bullcarp. (I haven't studied the machines)

I can only recall a few machines of that size with results which I would call impressive.
This being one.

And Graham's machine


Tom

 

[G S Haydon]

Hi Tom

Niall's tyre does look bad. Not had to swap tyres on a bandsaw before but the advice seems good.

My Record DMB 65 might deal with 6" at a push. It's a pretty robust machine but does have lightweight wheels. The going rate seems to be £100, which is what I paid.

The Record is currently performing better than the C 500 Wadkin at work. Simply because the record has a really sharp blade and all the guides are set up properly.

The short video I did is annoying. I will do a slightly longer one at some point. It is slightly sped up because there is only 60 seconds of video that can be uploaded.

Assuming the saw is set properly with a sharp 1/2" 3tpi blade it's essential the feed rate is steady. You have to feel the cut being made and have mechanical sympathy. I like hand tools so I know how tough it would be to deep cut timber. Never be afraid to take your time and push sticks are essential.

 

[Ttrees]

I think there's a little more to it than a sharp blade though,
alignment and tires seems just as important to me.
I could mention say this machine, which may make one question that thinking.
You can hear that the powerfeeder ain't got no sympathy.


I digress..
A good look at those tires might be helpful, as in thickness, tire profile and hardness.
The EB 315 at me folks is pants by comparison to your old Record, (even though it was sped up,
it still made the cut, and we can hear whats going on)

Just to be clear...
*Using the rip fence is the real test, and a point fence not really so atall.
It'll drift either side of the line on even a plank from a pallet.
Fair enough I haven't drawn the lines on it to check.

But I suspect if I were to do so, it might make something more apparent with those seemingly OEM tires, which seem a bit perished and with so little crown, I get the feeling like they might be moving a bit.
They run smooth and quiet, and I gave the previous owner who welded new jacking nuts the benefit of the doubt that it was set up right, because of this...

But then you see some videos like I've linked with similar machines,
and I get the feeling it's worth inspecting the good'uns.

Has you're machine got a butyl like shine on the rubber for instance, like the EB,
or perhaps something else like the Startrites of similar size.
This brings up the question regarding grip, and a hard line of sorts,
in regards to camber, as it's not variable when running where you want the blade,
(in use that is)

There may be quite a few options of tire replacement out there, mixed opinions on the urethane ones it seems, and you may have to order from the States, but certainly seem to work for some folk.
Not sure what's out there in regards to strech on synthetic rubber,
but I think worth looking around for alternatives, those Metabo's aren't even that old.
Have I seen someone get some replacements from Bedford tool which were substantially thicker than the OEM's for their RP machine
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/someone-to-set-up-my-bandsaw-sy-s66.138725/page-2

Just some ponderings on the matter.

Good luck
Tom