Meat and Fish Band Saw Blades- Dragon Saws

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kenneth cooke

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It's official, these are without doubt the best blades I have used on my Record Power BS350 Bandsaw and I would strongly recommend supporting British Industry and trying one on your saw. My saw takes maximum 3/4" blades but the 5/8' x 1033.1/2" blades they supplied are just perfect. PM me on set up which is of paramount importance but the effort is worth it. I gather they have the following sizes in stock which they can solder to any custom length

They currently have in stock the following thin kerf blades:

1/4" x 4tpi x .020
1/4" x 6tpi x .020
3/8" x 6tpi x .020
1/2" x 4tpi x .020
1/2" x 6tpi x .020
5/8" x 4tpi x .020
1" x 4tpi x .025
 
Rod - We haven't got any meat and fish blades in stock but the blades that Kenneth tried are Thin Kerf blades which are made to the same thickness as meat and fish blades but not from the shiny bandsaw material.
They are very similar to the meat and fish type blades but designed for wood cutting as opposed to meat/fish cutting!

Our Thin Kerf blades are made from the same material as our other blades so the quality is the same as the rest of our range.
They have been designed so that wastage is kept to a minimum but can still cope with cutting thick stock. They are proving to be a great blade for veneer cutting etc.

We currently have in stock the following thin kerf blades:

1/4" x 4tpi x .020
1/4" x 6tpi x .020
3/8" x 6tpi x .020
1/2" x 4tpi x .020
1/2" x 6tpi x .020
5/8" x 4tpi x .020
1" x 4tpi x .025

We haven't really advertised the thin kerf blades that much as we've been trying to build our stocks up first so the person in the office might not have had all the information on these.

I don't think that I'm allowed to post prices but I will send you a PM with some prices of the 112" blades.

If you need any more information just let me know

Ian (Dragon Saws)

official ??
 
I also think it is important to state that these blades are not just supreme for slicing veneers. Any task that requires precision sawing of hardwoods for initial dimensioning with minimal planning afterwards is where these blades also excel. In fact, as I do not ever cut curves on my bandsaw my 5/8" blade is fitted permanently and as do do not have a planer and thicknesser I value the minimum amount of hand planing necessary.
 
Please can someone explain the advantages of meat & fish blades for wood use?

I can imagine a food processing blade might be thin kerf to minimise waste but I can't see meat or fish even with bones being challenging materials to cut. I also assume they would be made from stainless steel or plated so as not to taint the food. None of which seems relevant to wood

Enquiring minds need to know!

Bob
 
The ones that Dragon sell aren't strictly "meat and fish" blades, they're just thin kerf, as Ian mentioned in another thread recently.
 
I think that M&F blades are used extensively in the FROZEN food industry, as well as in forensic autopsy rooms. They are essentially cutting ice with embedded organic matter, and as you know if you've ever tried to cut a frozen chicken, it's a job for a manly blade.

Cheers
Steve
 
Steve Maskery":83ivn81z said:
I think that M&F blades are used extensively in the FROZEN food industry, as well as in forensic autopsy rooms. They are essentially cutting ice with embedded organic matter, and as you know if you've ever tried to cut a frozen chicken, it's a jobs for a manly blade.

Cheers
Steve
...'sawdust' :arrow: extraction? 8-[ - Rob
 
I now have a thin kerf blade from Dragon and will give it try out against the shiny M&F ones.
It maybe not for a little while as my new TS has necessitated a major workshop sort out!
It was David C that brought them to my attention - he uses them for cutting dovetails - he said at the time he could not get them in the UK?

Rod
 
I have used the thin kerf blades from Dragon Saws today with excellent results, cutting some 250mm high x 300mm x 25mm mahogany into 3mm thick panels.
I used a 5/8" 4TPI blade on my ancient Startrite 352 and it cut like a dream.

I would thoroughly recommend them - I much prefer these thin types of blades over the standard types.

Rod
 
I'm struggling to see any real advantage other than it being easier to tension them properly - is that it?
 
Yes I think so - I can wind up the tension until they are really taught.

They are also thinner so produce less waste and even the 4TPI produces a smooth cut. They also produce a very fine and accurate cut when cutting dovetails and other joints.

I first read about them in an article in FWW by David Charlesworth who uses them on his enormous Robinson bandsaw to cut joints - he reckons he is useless with hand saws?

Rod
 
It makes sense, given that many bandsaws struggle to get enough tension on a blade anywhere near their max capacity - a 352 should be able to do a 5/8 on a normal body though, and that cannot be the reason why it would help on that cast iron monster.

The difference in kerf is minimal, so I'm a little sceptical about that - unless the set is very different?

Is the comparison between the same tpi and tooth pattern?
 

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