Marquetry with a scroll saw?

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Barnum

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Hi

I was wondering if anyone has any experience here of doing marquetry on a scroll saw? I used to do it with a scalpel and am now interested in trying it on my scroll saw.

If you are stack-cutting the veneers, surely there is a tiny gap between the pieces that corresponds to the thickness of the blade? I know we're talking of probably less than 1mm, but doesn't that show? I know there's a way round it - cutting at an angle perhaps?

Any tips on this or for scroll saw marquetry in general?

Thanks
 
It's a good few years since I did any Marquetry but I always used a scalpel knife, I have read that it can be done with a fretsaw but you would surely need to use the very fine piercing blades. I imagine it might be quite difficult with very small parts! :)
 
It can be done. Never done it but there was a programme on TV showing somebody reproducing thos chipendale's work and he was using a tredle powered fretsaw for marquetry/inlaying.
 
Why would you want to unless using thick veneers?
A scalpel is quick, accurate, especially using the "window" method working from the back and cutting at an angle.

Just curious. I've only ever done pictures and chess boards then stuck the whole thing to a backing board, never directly applied to furniture.

Bob
 
Hi Lons. As for why use a scroll saw - It's been a while since I tried with a scalpel, but I remember not having much success. Over time I ended up with blisters from pressing on the blade hard enough to cut the veneers, and the process took an age.

On holiday in Sorrento, I saw a workshop where they create their famous local marquetry and they all did it using some type of tiny-bladed scroll saw. Now I've got a saw myself, I thought I'd try to figure out how it's done.
 
Hi,
It has been about 65 years since I used to do Marquetry ( or try ) using a treadle saw, in those days I was taught to layer between card before cutting.
If I remember the veneer was about 1/16 " and if you had a really flat surface it would adhere without using glue which used to amaze me

John
 
You could try googling 'double bevel inlay' I have played with this technique a few times. I find it more difficult using veneers due to the thickness and tendency to split of some of the veneers. Personally I find greater success with woods about 3 or 4mm thick, and the real key to success is the right angle of blade, and of the entry holes, if you get the angle and position right you will 'lose' the hole :)
I have had a few disasters recently (see earlier posts), but am just finishing a jewellery box with birds in walnut and sycamore - have taken pic, but can't get it transferred to my computer to post, when I do I will post it.
heres one I made earlier not really marquetry maybe but first real attempt with double bevel inlay
supercubbox_thumb.JPG
 

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I think my Dad has been to the same factory in Sorrento and picked up some tips and hints from the guys there.

Wish I had some images of his work, but suffice to say it is fantastic. He makes his own veneers out of all manner of stuff - sometimes even from lumps of wood he finds on Tate Hill Beach in Whitby where he lives.

His last project was covering a box with marquetry work which he gave to my kid sister
 
bugbear":1r68uisz said:
Sheepy":1r68uisz said:
I think my Dad has been to the same factory in Sorrento and picked up some tips and hints from the guys there.

And tips and hints for us? :D

BugBear

I wish!

He is bloody awful at passing on his techniques as he "just does it" on auto-pilot. The other problem is that his workshop is in the cellar of my parents' whaling cottage in Whitby, which is about two metres square. They have their washer, dryer and freezer down there, a disassembled motorbike, his band saw, fretsaw, workbench, fishing gear, a mountain of those old wooden planes of every description..........and standing room for someone built like a bleedin' Hobbit (which he is). No room for demonstrating anything whatsoever.

How did I end up being well over six feet tall? I'd better ask the old milkman I reckon.
 

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