Marking gauge (wheel variety)

[MikeG.]

......It's more of a fine point than a cone anyway.

And if it isn't, file it.

 

[Bodgers]

Well remembered, custard. Yep, it's an expensive thing (and otherwise very well engineered) from Workshop Heaven, but the wheel sticks out 2 or 3mm from the shaft (it isn't in front of me, so I'm guessing). This means the shaft can't be used as a reference, which is pivotal to the proper use of a marking gauge. I have no issues using a pin gauge to mark around corners. However, the wheel gauge does something a pin gauge can't: quickly take an absolute measurement of the thickness of a board, which is of course useful when setting out the cutting depths for tails and pins, and for finger joints (box joints).

Edit:

I found the drawings I did illustrating the issue:

I have a woodcraft wheel gauge I picked up from the US last year. Mine can be held flush against the workpiece without it being angled back by the wheel. I use it in preference to my Irwin pin gauge now.

 

[JohnPW]

Well remembered, custard. Yep, it's an expensive thing (and otherwise very well engineered) from Workshop Heaven, but the wheel sticks out 2 or 3mm from the shaft (it isn't in front of me, so I'm guessing). This means the shaft can't be used as a reference, which is pivotal to the proper use of a marking gauge. I have no issues using a pin gauge to mark around corners. However, the wheel gauge does something a pin gauge can't: quickly take an absolute measurement of the thickness of a board, which is of course useful when setting out the cutting depths for tails and pins, and for finger joints (box joints).

Edit:

I found the drawings I did illustrating the issue:

I could be wrong but I've always thought a wheel marking gauge is not used in the same way as a pin one.

With the pin gauge, you hold the fence against the workpiece and rest the pin stem on the workpiece and rotate it so that pin touches the workpiece. But with a wheel gauge, you only have to hold the fence against the workpiece, the wheel stem "hangs" in mid-air and does not touch the workpiece as you mark the line, as in the first or third drawing.

 

[Jacob]

........ However, the wheel gauge does something a pin gauge can't: quickly take an absolute measurement of the thickness of a board, which is of course useful when setting out the cutting depths for tails and pins, and for finger joints (box joints).

Why not? I see no problem at all.

Edit:

I found the drawings I did illustrating the issue:

I could be wrong but I've always thought a wheel marking gauge is not used in the same way as a pin one.

With the pin gauge, you hold the fence against the workpiece and rest the pin stem on the workpiece and rotate it so that pin touches the workpiece. But with a wheel gauge, you only have to hold the fence against the workpiece, the wheel stem "hangs" in mid-air and does not touch the workpiece as you mark the line, as in the first or third drawing.

How would you keep it hanging in mid air (as in 3rd drawing)? Looks impossible to me.

You are right about the pin gauge - the pin is lowered onto the workpiece and you trail it along at an angle, as deep or shallow as you want

 

[JohnPW]

How would you keep it hanging in mid air (as in 3rd drawing)? Looks impossible to me.

Hold the fence against the workpiece then move the gauge down until the wheel touches. Keep the gauge pressing on the side of the workpiece and move the gauge along the workpiece to make the mark.

 

[MikeG.]

How would you keep it hanging in mid air (as in 3rd drawing)? Looks impossible to me.

Hold the fence against the workpiece then move the gauge down until the wheel touches. Keep the gauge pressing on the side of the workpiece and move the gauge along the workpiece to make the mark.

That's fantasy, respectfully. You have to press to make a mark. Pressing deflects the shaft.

 

[Beau]

How would you keep it hanging in mid air (as in 3rd drawing)? Looks impossible to me.

Hold the fence against the workpiece then move the gauge down until the wheel touches. Keep the gauge pressing on the side of the workpiece and move the gauge along the workpiece to make the mark.

Not used a wheel gauge and tend to use a cutting gauge but I use it as you describe. Not especially difficult to learn to do.

 

[Jacob]

How would you keep it hanging in mid air (as in 3rd drawing)? Looks impossible to me.

Hold the fence against the workpiece then move the gauge down until the wheel touches. Keep the gauge pressing on the side of the workpiece and move the gauge along the workpiece to make the mark.

Not used a wheel gauge and tend to use a cutting gauge but I use it as you describe. Not especially difficult to learn to do.

Seems to be a lot of over thinking going on!
Cutting gauge same as pin gauge - the shaft sits firmly on the workpiece. You turn it towards you to drop the pin or the knife down, and trail it along, twisting to adjust depth of cut. The shaft stays firmly on the workpiece all the time, not hanging in mid air.

 

[JohnPW]

With a pin gauge or a cutting gauge, whether or not the stem/shaft rests on the workpiece depends on how far the pin or knife sticks out.

If they stick out quite a bit, then you have to use the "no stem contact" method, some might say that's the wrong way but it still works.

 

[MikeG.]

With a pin gauge or a cutting gauge, whether or not the stem/shaft rests on the workpiece depends on how far the pin or knife sticks out.

If they stick out quite a bit, then you have to use the "no stem contact" method, some might say that's the wrong way but it still works.

It doesn't matter how far they stick out. You just rotate the gauge until the edge of the shaft is lying on the work surface.

 

[Jacob]

With a pin gauge or a cutting gauge, whether or not the stem/shaft rests on the workpiece depends on how far the pin or knife sticks out.

If they stick out quite a bit, then you have to use the "no stem contact" method, some might say that's the wrong way but it still works.

I expect you can make the "no stem contact" method work but it's much easier the proper way, i.e. "stem contact" all the time and trail the pin/knife.

 

[Beau]

[Seems to be a lot of over thinking going on!

I dont think about but just do it. Sometimes I rest the body on the work sometimes I dont. It's not rocket science

 

[Sawyer]

When I came across these, they seemed expensive and gimmicky. The only real advantage I see is for getting into a confined space, such as when marking a hinge recess in the rebate of door frame. I have never bothered to buy one.

 

[Jacob]

For hinge recess in the rebate of door frame just trim off the end of a normal woody.
Easily adaptability is another advantage of the trad woody.
I've got shortened ones and others with a radius on one face, for particular jobs long forgotten. You can add an extra pin for a fixed mortice gauge, etc etc