Marking accurate mitres referencing face side - great tool

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Good Surname or what ?

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I've just returned fron DC's dovetailing course where I saw new tool.

I have always struggled to mark mitres because a standard 45 degree square means you must reference from the non-face side. This is bound to lead to some inaccuracy.

David had a great 135 degree square which let's you reference from the face side. In case anybodyelse is searching for one here's what it looks like.
Mitre.jpg


Format product No. 46340120 - it's only £8.60 + VAT

I found a great supplier.

Paul Beattie
Internal Sales Office Manager
Carillon Industrial Services Ltd
Colmworth Business Park
Eaton Socon
St Neots
Cambridgeshire
PE19 8YP

Phone 01480 225850
Fax 01480 225860
www.cis-tools.co.uk


I emailed last night and their MD emailed back at 10pm! I've now ordered and will have it next week.
 
That looks to be a great tool!
I often find it difficult to mark them accurately, also due to the short reference side on a normal combination square.
Did you buy from them online?
 
So a sliding bevel doesn't work for you, then?

Scrit
 
MooreToolsPlease":2uniay9g said:
Setting one up to exactly 135* takes some time
Not if you have a 45/135 degree block :lol: (such as the stock on an engineer's sliding square) - or for that matter just use the engineer's squer to start with..... :?

Scrit
 
Axminster used to sell this type of mitre square a long time ago but alas :cry: no longer do so, good job I got mine when they stocked 'em.

Al - those bevel setting thingies are IMO innacurate as when you're doing mitres any error is compounded. Much better I think to have a specific tool that's bang on every time - Rob
 
Alf

Have you thought about one of these? (I have one - it's very good :wink: )

603.jpg


or for the woodie in you, how about this:

131.jpg


both courtesy of Ulmia

Scrit
 
I think the main problem with the adjustable type is that, even if you are able to set them up accurately, it's so easy to accidentally knock the blade when picking them up, using them and putting them down, and you never really know whether the blade has moved until it's too late :cry:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Wow there, kiddies; I merely followed up the idea that setting sliding bevels to a specific angle causes trouble and thus offered a solution to setting said angles that's worked for me. I've found no need for an additional square personally, but to each their own and I'm well aware I don't bring the engineering mindset to woodworking that some of you do. I do wonder what you're going to do about this sliding bevel trouble if you need an angle not covered by a specific tool though... :wink:

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":3jht8fpn said:
I do wonder what you're going to do about this sliding bevel trouble if you need an angle not covered by a specific tool though... :wink:

Do what you do, Alf - but don't admit it :wink: :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
"Engineering mind set"? Mitre squares aren't that new, y'know. You'll be telling me next that a mitre guillotine is a step too far...... :wink:

Scrit
 
Scrit":2iunbdf9 said:
"Engineering mind set"? Mitre squares aren't that new, y'know.
I know. :roll: Don't think any wooden square or wooden stocked square would classify anyone as having an engineering mindset anyway! :lol: But I've just remembered I'm not talking to you 'cos you left me holding the sliding bevel baby. [-(

Cheers, Alf
 
Hmmm... Looks like finding a problem that you never knew of or you never did have a problem to justify another tool you must have, because you cant do without but you'll probably never ever use it because you didn't know you had a problem because you never had a problem that needed that new tool.

Clear as mud :lol: mind you it might come in handy to check frog angles :lol: :lol:
 
Alf":18mz24l4 said:
But I've just remembered I'm not talking to you 'cos you left me holding the sliding bevel baby. [-(
Well I carry a sliding bevel in my outside work kit as it's useful for all sorts of tasks. The fact that it folds up nice and small is a real plus, and in a pinch it can be used as a try square as well. When I need to do a short bevel I either use the engineer's sliding combi square :oops: but for longer stuff and multi-faceted pieces the sliding bevel is king. As for setting a 45 degree angle accurately a pair of dividers and a square (both essential setting-out tools) will do the job so long as you have a straight offcut of timber

Scrit
 
I've got a plastic kiddies school protractor from whsmith for setting angles on my sliding bevel, it cost 75p iirc and works serviceable well. It comes complete with a whole range of angles :)
Cheers Mike
 
Alf,

That Bevelboss looks excellent, big enough to make definite measurements/settings. Do you know if anywhere on this side of the pond stocks it, or did you buy yours from the US?

Cheers,

V.
 
Okay, Scrit, you're forgiven. :lol:

V, no idea on a UK stockist I'm afraid - mine came via the generosity of Chris (waterhead) and a list of improbable alternatives to using a dado head. Strange, but true.

Cheers, Alf
 
The bevel boss looks like a very useful tool to me, as is the 135 degree mitre square which Phil kindly posted.

It is better made than the Wezu which Axminster used to stock, and reasonably priced for an accurate tool.

Although it is possible to set an adjustable bevel, it is quicker and more convenient to have a dedicated tool which marks from the datum/face side, (i.e. the interior), if you do much with mitres.

The comment about compounding errors was well made. I often wonder why mitres seem so much more troublesome than rightangle joints?

Half a degree out of square dosen't seem to matter often and the shoulder line is easy to close. A small gap at the outside of a secret mitre dovetail is a disaster, and any gap in a mitre stands out like a sore thumb.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 

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