Making Grooving Planes

[transatlantic]

Has anyone made something like this?

I would like to make one so I can cut grooves to accept 6mm ply, such as in the botton of a box.

Not sure what to use for the blade though? I was thinking of just picking up a 6mm chisel and removing the handle.

Maybe something like this :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-414-6-B- ... B0001IX80A

or (as the wood will be easier to remove)
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-r ... 6mm-103295

I did have a look at some o1 steel on ebay, but it doesn't come in the sizes I would need, so would have to cut it dow, harden it etc and it's not any cheaper really.

 

[Zeddedhed]

I've got a feeling that Paul Sellers made one using a chisel, although it may be that he made a rebate plane rather than a grooving plane, although I would think it's much the same process.

 

[marcros]

Do you want to make one for the fun of doing so? If so, great and all kudos to you.

If you just want a bought solution, a record 043 is a good investment.

 

[Inspector]

I would just buy a blade like one of these from Lee Valley. Being square they will bed a little easier than the beveled edged chisels you are thinking of. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 5622,75778

Option B. Look for 6mm HSS lathe bits on your favourite shopping site. eBay has them in 3mm and 6mm thicknesses 200mm long dirt cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... t&_sacat=0 They are cheap enough that you might as well get some other sizes while you are at it.

Pete

 

[custard]

Remember, plywood is sold in nominal sizes, so the one thickness that 6mm plywood will never be is actually 6mm! Seriously, even on premium ply I've found thickness variations within a single sheet let alone between sheets. Forget ever cutting a standard groove for ply, you need to work from the ply that's actually on your bench and size accordingly.

Having said that I've often thought about making a similar tool to that groover for fitting drawer bottoms. Quality drawer bottoms in a metric workshop are almost always made from 8mm Cedar of Lebanon, so you need a 4mm wide groove, 4.5mm deep, with a fence that's 8mm from the cutter. The perfect candidate for the tool you describe...and one day I'll get round to it!

 

[transatlantic]

Do you want to make one for the fun of doing so? If so, great and all kudos to you.

Pretty much

Option B. Look for 6mm HSS lathe bits on your favourite shopping site. eBay has them in 3mm and 6mm thicknesses 200mm long dirt cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... t&_sacat=0 They are cheap enough that you might as well get some other sizes while you are at it.

Pete

That lathe tool steel stock looks perfect! and in 1mm increments! ... I assume I don't have to harden it or anything? just grind down to my 25deg and I'm set? (fortunately I have access to a Sorby Pro Edge)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LATHE-TOOL-S ... PrW-V3aheQ

Remember, plywood is sold in nominal sizes, so the one thickness that 6mm plywood will never be is actually 6mm! Seriously, even on premium ply I've found thickness variations within a single sheet let alone between sheets. Forget ever cutting a standard groove for ply, you need to work from the ply that's actually on your bench and size accordingly.

Sure, I wasn't expecting it to be exactly 6mm. My plan was to cut a 6mm groove and slightly plane the ply to fit (assuming the ply layers are thick enough for that). I figured that would be easier than say making a 5mm groover, and then widening the groove?

 

[Inspector]

You can sharpen them to your hearts content but DON'T quench them in water to cool them off. It creates micro-cracks in the metal which will break away when you use it. Dulls fast. Set them down to cool in the air. Same applies to all HSS tools. HSS was designed to cut metal and hold it's sharpness at near red hot temperatures so even if you blue the edge it won't matter unless you dip it in water. I don't make it a practice to blue the edge but don't sweat it if I do. The carbon steels used in old chisels and planes loose their hardness when they get hot.

Pete

 

[custard]

Remember, plywood is sold in nominal sizes, so the one thickness that 6mm plywood will never be is actually 6mm! Seriously, even on premium ply I've found thickness variations within a single sheet let alone between sheets. Forget ever cutting a standard groove for ply, you need to work from the ply that's actually on your bench and size accordingly.

Sure, I wasn't expecting it to be exactly 6mm. My plan was to cut a 6mm groove and slightly plane the ply to fit (assuming the ply layers are thick enough for that). I figured that would be easier than say making a 5mm groover, and then widening the groove?

That's unlikely to work for you. 6mm ply is almost always less than 6mm, so starting with a 6mm groove means you can't escape a sloppy, rattly fit. Furthermore, sanding ply with ultra thin face veneers (in some cases just 0.2mm!) isn't good practise. For first class work you should think in terms of cutting/machining the perfect groove for your plywood stock, bottom line is that (for plywood at least, MDF or solid timber you thickness yourself are different stories) means an adjustable fence rather than a dedicated/fixed tool.

 

[transatlantic]

Remember, plywood is sold in nominal sizes, so the one thickness that 6mm plywood will never be is actually 6mm! Seriously, even on premium ply I've found thickness variations within a single sheet let alone between sheets. Forget ever cutting a standard groove for ply, you need to work from the ply that's actually on your bench and size accordingly.

Sure, I wasn't expecting it to be exactly 6mm. My plan was to cut a 6mm groove and slightly plane the ply to fit (assuming the ply layers are thick enough for that). I figured that would be easier than say making a 5mm groover, and then widening the groove?

That's unlikely to work for you. 6mm ply is almost always less than 6mm, so starting with a 6mm groove means you can't escape a sloppy, rattly fit. Furthermore, sanding ply with ultra thin face veneers (in some cases just 0.2mm!) isn't good practise. For first class work you should think in terms of cutting/machining the perfect groove for your plywood stock, bottom line is that (for plywood at least, MDF or solid timber you thickness yourself are different stories) means an adjustable fence rather than a dedicated/fixed tool.

Ah ok. When you're moving the fence in very small increments to get the perfect fit, say 0.5mm at a time. Is it hard to hold the plane in place? doesn't it want to keep slipping?

 

[AndyT]

Maybe Pete Maddex hasn't seen this thread or maybe he's just being modest. But for evidence that it's perfectly practical to make your own grooving plane, have a look at this recent thread

post1289844.html

 

[toolsntat]

Loads of unloved and available wooden plough planes out there :wink: :wink:
For the variations in ply thickness you could have a selection of cutters to suit.
Cheers Andy

 

[Woody2Shoes]

I know it's not quite the answer to your question, but I love my metal plough plane:
https://www.workshopheaven.com/quangshe ... plane.html

I achieve 'non-standard' sizes by making two separate sets of passes. Say I want to achieve 5.5mm width for a "6mm" piece of ply, I'll do one set of passes (to full depth) with my 3mm cutter, then move it over 2.5mm and make another set of passes. Any finessing I do with my trusty side rebate plane https://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-sid ... ane-211005

Of course, making one's own would be great (one day I'll make myself a set of hollows and rounds - probably) - but life is short!

Cheers, W2S

 

[transatlantic]

I know it's not quite the answer to your question, but I love my metal plough plane:
https://www.workshopheaven.com/quangshe ... plane.html

I achieve 'non-standard' sizes by making two separate sets of passes. Say I want to achieve 5.5mm width for a "6mm" piece of ply, I'll do one set of passes (to full depth) with my 3mm cutter, then move it over 2.5mm and make another set of passes. Any finessing I do with my trusty side rebate plane https://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-sid ... ane-211005

Of course, making one's own would be great (one day I'll make myself a set of hollows and rounds - probably) - but life is short!

Cheers, W2S

They do look very nice, but I need something that can mostly be used with one hand. And I was going to adapt it to work on the pull stroke too.

 

[Racers]

Maybe Pete Maddex hasn't seen this thread or maybe he's just being modest. But for evidence that it's perfectly practical to make your own grooving plane, have a look at this recent thread

post1289844.html

I had seen it, I was thinking that a Record 43 with a selection of home made blades would work.
I was thinking of how you could make a adjustable grover possibly with two blades but it's going to be easier with a selection of blades and a setting block with the 43.

Pete

 

[thetyreman]

one hand. work on the pull stroke.

why?

 

[rafezetter]

Remember, plywood is sold in nominal sizes, so the one thickness that 6mm plywood will never be is actually 6mm! Seriously, even on premium ply I've found thickness variations within a single sheet let alone between sheets. Forget ever cutting a standard groove for ply, you need to work from the ply that's actually on your bench and size accordingly.

Having said that I've often thought about making a similar tool to that groover for fitting drawer bottoms. Quality drawer bottoms in a metric workshop are almost always made from 8mm Cedar of Lebanon, so you need a 4mm wide groove, 4.5mm deep, with a fence that's 8mm from the cutter. The perfect candidate for the tool you describe...and one day I'll get round to it!

... does that mean the drawer bottom is then rebated to fit the 4mm groove?