Making Bandsaw Blades

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Harbo

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There is an article in the current Popular Woodworking mag. about making your own bandsaw blades with a simple jig, silver solder and a propane torch. Reckons you can save 50% (in the States) doing that.

Anybody done it over here and where can you get the materials including the blades?

Rod
 
Yes Rod, many times, and unless you are very hard up forget it!
Firstly, unless you get through a **** of lot of blades or expect to live to about 120 one pack of band will see you out.
The two ends of the band must be tapered quite accurately and any surplus solder removed to prevent the blade jamming in the kerf.
Also this softens the band so that that section rapidly ends up like us old 'uns and loses its teeth!

Roy.
 
Digit - the article made it look very easy and cheap as the Americans can get the saw blades for 50cents a foot - but it does come in 100ft rolls so that's a lot of blades.

I was really trying to see what the economies of doing here were but I cannot find any prices for the blades. And I certainly don't want 100foot rolls! :)

Rod
 
Personally I have never seen it available in short lengths I'm afraid, so if you want more than one type of blade you will have an awfull lot of band in stock.
100 ft seems about the norm as I remember it.

Roy.
 
100 foot rolls, would make about 25 blades for my saw. Times maybe four different widths, and three different types!

That's a lot of 'Heavy Metal.'

I think I'll stay with bulk orders from Axminster or somesuch!

It's nice to know how to repair a blade I suppose, if you are stuck, but I am just about to order some anyhow. Any ideas on the best make/supplier folks?

Regards
John :) .
 
A lot of the manufacturers are stopping supplying bandsaw material in 100' coils and 250' coils are the norm now. Some even have a minimum order of 500' per coil.

Silver soldering bandsaw blades is easier the thicker the blade - on the thin gauge hobby blades it's a nightmare to get these right and if you put too much heat or not enough heat into the join then it will just break as soon as you bend the blade to fit on the bandsaw - joining them like this is a right pain!!
When you first start doing it then you will get a lot of blades breaking and it can be very frustrating but it does get easier with practice.

Most bandsaw suppliers that weld their own blades should be able to supply the bandsaw material and if you only wanted a few foot to practice with then it shouldn't be a problem getting hold of small amounts.
You should be able to get the silver solder from any welding supplies - I don't know if they sell this in small amounts though and we've just been quoted £240 plus vat per kilo for 2.5mm silver solder rods (we use silver solder for replacing damaged tips in TCT circular saws).

Ian
 
Thanks for the info folks I will stick with ready made ones.

I might buy some solder and flux to keep in to make any repairs - not that I have ever broken a blade yet?
Chronos Ltd sell the solder and flux in small quantities.

Rod
 
Harbo":3ubyenjh said:
Thanks for the info folks I will stick with ready made ones.

I might buy some solder and flux to keep in to make any repairs - not that I have ever broken a blade yet?
Chronos Ltd sell the solder and flux in small quantities.

Rod

Rod you may want to look at this thread if you want to try silver soldering:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... 761#254761
Some very helpful advice there which got me up and running.

Cheers

Gidon
 
Hi folks. I am in Australia, so the following may not be applicicable to GB.

If you can locate an Industrial "saw doctor" close by, in addition to offering sharpening services etc, they also normally supply and sharpen/grind/assemble make blades to your requirements.

I got onto a local one a few years ago for cold cut metal saw blades, but they cover all types of blades. They have rolls of bandsaw blade for most purposes in stock, and can cut and weld with a CNC machine with less than a days notice.

They charge for the service of course, but for the small to medium machines their prices are competitive with off the shelf hardware store prices. The advantage is that the basic stock that they use is top German or Scandinavian material, not gungy asian stuff. This means that the blades have a quality far in advance of the off the shelf units. Because the joining is done in a single pass with the CNC machine, the joints are far superior to what most people can achieve at home.

While the saw docs here will work through industrial supply houses, the are also very happy to deal with shopfront customers. Because of the supply house margins and the power of cash, dealing direct can bring about savings of about 50%, which is how the custom HQ blade is competitive with the off the shelf asian ones.

They are also well set up to cope with sharpening all types of circular saw, router, planer/thicknesser and countersink sharpening as well, so it is possible to develop a good working relationship with them.
 
Harbo

I saw that article and was quite surprised in all honesty.

I have an M42 blade in my bandsaw (since sept/oct last year) and it is still working as good as new. As it costs around £20, and half price is £10, I can't really see the saving (buy a torch, silver solder = >£10 and build a jig)

Also, I am pretty sure Dragon do a better job than me :wink:

Interestingly, the bandsaws we have in the machine shop at work have small spot welders actually incorporated into them for one to make/repair a blade
 
Just a few minutes ago i had a blade go with quite a bang. It failed on the weld so i will not be trying to weld one myself as i don't want this to happen again soon.
 
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