Making a wooden window

[Wilson joinery]

Hi everyone

I’m hoping you can help me. I’ve had a bit of a carry on having to fit a concrete lintel above a window in an old garage gable wall. The old hardwood window frame is rotten and was the only thing holding up half the wall!

So I’m going to make a replacement window. Nothing fancy, probably bridle joints, some glue and some masonry bolts to fix it into the opening. I was then planning on having a rebate in the frame for the glazing. Linseed putty on the side of the glass butting into the rebate and then beading on the outside of the frame Brad nailed in.

Does that sound ok?

Couple of questions though, do you think I’d be ok to make it from the standard sort of pressure treated softwood you’d get form fencing/decking merchants?

Also would the process i described above be the same if I was going to use a double glazed unit? (The original glass is single glazed)

Many thanks indeed
Pete

 

[RobinBHM]

Are you talking about a direct glazed window frame?

ie no hinged opening casement.

If it’s a direct glazed frame, you could make it out of pressure treated softwood say 70 x 44mm

Its easiest to make a flat frame and add on a bead to the inside to form a rebate.

Then use a timber bead on the outside.

you don’t need to bed the glass, single or double glazed with putty, just use some low modulus silicone.

You will need an external cill of sorts as well.

 

[Bingy man]

Sounds reasonable but for security purposes I’d make the rebate by gluing suitable strips on the outside and counter sink the screws and fill with eternal filler or glued in wooden plugs. As above as long as the frame is deep enough then double glazed unit is better and glazing silicone is ok as long as timber is dry a 2nd set of strips inside to secure the glass/ d/glazed unit fixed with brass or s/steel screws will make it easier in future should you need to replace the glass . A quality frame sealant will ensure it’s weatherproof. The sill should also have a routed drip slot underneath to prevent water running back towards the wall .

 

[Wilson joinery]

That’s brilliant thanks Robin. Yes direct glazed. I hadn’t thought of using silicon that’s a good idea thank you. In terms of the sill would this involve using a slightly wider piece of timber for the bottom of the frame and then adding some sort of chamfer so water runs off?

 

[Wilson joinery]

Thanks for the reply bingyman. I think I’ve understood you correctly, do you mean you’d effectively have a frame with the glass held in place by 2 screwed on rebates inside and outside and further secured with silicon where the glass touches the rebates?

 

[Bingy man]

Thanks for the reply bingyman. I think I’ve understood you correctly, do you mean you’d effectively have a frame with the glass held in place by 2 screwed on rebates inside and outside and further secured with silicon where the glass touches the rebates?

Yes exactly that unless you want to actually route in a permanent rebate one side and use the fixing strips on the inside. The external strips would of course be glued in with waterproof glue .

 

[mr rusty]

If you pop down to your local builders merchant, you'll probably find they sell basic window profiles. mine does Window Section - Timber Mouldings | C&W Berry