Making a small boat door

[jimfin]

I want to make a rear door for our boat. Because if the size of the frame, the max thickness is only 18mm.
I have found some 18mm iroka cladding T&G that is 87mm coverage. So running down the length of the door I will need 6 lengths.
I want to put a piece across the top and bottom of the door to hold it all together. What would be the best way to fasten these pieces?
In the pic is something like what I want to get to, but with top and bottom braces.

 

[Lazurus]

Your are going to have a lot of movement in the door with a marine / river environment. most of the builders up here have moved to UPVC and plastic doors as they are a pain to keep watertight when a timber door moves. Ensure you have a good rebate around the door in the frame to allow for the movement and still stay dry. Adhesives consider the WEST system for marine environment.

 

[mickthetree]

Is it possible that a door like that has braces on the rear instead of the usual rail and stile affair?

Slotted screw hole would allow for movement of the boards

Perhaps worth looking at accoya wood for that environment?

No knowledge of boats, just hth

Cheers

 

[Mike Jordan]

Iroko should be ideal since it doesn't take up much moisture or expand to much. If you build in a 1mm gap between each board there is a fair chance you will have no problems. The ledges at top and bottom can be fastened by screwing and pelleting over. If you can manage it, opening up the rebates to take a 30 mm thick door would allow you to make a framed ledged and braced door which would look much better on the inside face.
It's most important that any air vents in the existing door are reproduced in the replacement one.
Best of luck with the project.
Mike

 

[MikeG.]

........I want to put a piece across the top and bottom of the door to hold it all together. What would be the best way to fasten these pieces?
In the pic is something like what I want to get to, but with top and bottom braces.

Do you mean across the back of the boards (= ledges), or do you mean in line with the boards (like breadboard ends/ rails)?

By "top and bottom braces", do you actually mean braces (which are diagonals)? Or do you mean the horizontals (either ledges or breadboard ends/ rails)?

 

[jimfin]

Was thinking I might forget about a top and bottom brace, and go for 3 horizontal battons on the inside. The better half will not go for the diagional braces. Looks too much like a shed door.

 

[jimfin]

Do you mean across the back of the boards (= ledges), or do you mean in line with the boards (like breadboard ends/ rails)?

By "top and bottom braces", do you actually mean braces (which are diagonals)? Or do you mean the horizontals (either ledges or breadboard ends/ rails)?[/quote]

What I was thinking was. The T&G put together horizontaly with another piece across the top, not at the back!!