Making a casement window (single glazed)

[ColeyS1]

Frame size could be the same size, just bigger rebate to suit the sash thickness. I make stiles for double glazing 57x57 with a 40x15mm rebate for glass (24 mm unit) 3/4 mortice and tenon.

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[timstevens]

Thanks a mill. Start Tomorrow!!!

 

[Adrian Thompson]

First time on the forum and seriously impressed with your skills - any chance you could be persuaded to do a one-week course?

 

[Landiman]

Many thanks Coley for sharing your experience and knowledge. We are building a workshop with 2 windows and a large barn door for my son (on a tight budget). Your posts are of great benefit.
Regards
John

 

[Kiz89]

Hi Corey,

Brilliant write up this.

Do you typically do the glazing also? Would love some details on this process. Specifically if you normally use timber glazing beads or putty for glass install?

cheers,
Kieran

 

[Kiz89]

Also, are your timber sections glue laminated? I’m in Australia and find it hard to get anything over 40-50mm

 

[Housey210]

Joiner by trade, I personally cut all the mortice and tenons before any moulding.

 

[Jacob]

Joiner by trade, I personally cut all the mortice and tenons before any moulding.

Me too. Mortices but only tenon cheeks first; shoulders last after all mouldings, rebates etc.
Also after cutting to length and planing I'd do 100% mark up from a rod - once the rod is drawn up you are on autopilot - no further measuring needed, or marking from one piece to another. You'd have to work like that if you had several to do. Even just one it's essential, faster and eliminates error.

 

[Housey210]

what is the choice of wood?

 

[Jacob]

what is the choice of wood?

Traditionally has nearly always been painted redwood. Lasts forever if properly detailed and maintained.

 

[RobinBHM]

Joiner by trade, I personally cut all the mortice and tenons before any moulding.

yup that normal

easier to mark out, easier to mortice

and leaving tenons long on georgian bars helps with support through spindle

 

[MCTWoodwork]

So the frames all done, now it's time to make the sashs. First thing is to machine the parts so they have rebates and a mould

The quickest way is to spindle them both at the same time

Another easy way would be a router table, obviously you would have to machine the mould and rebate seperstely.
The mould depth and the rebate depth are the same. This should make tenoning easy peasy cause the shoulders are square.
I've found the easiest way to check they are square/the same depth, is to machine the glazing bar first

This will show up any differences. Once you're happy, roller feed/feather boards and away you go.

Time to start marking out the parts for m &t's

Coley

Brilliant photos and explanation @ColeyS1. I would love make some windows., although I need the space first though!

Thanks for taking the time to show us how its done properly with great pictures.

Cheers,

Matthew

 

[johnnyb]

coley hasn't been on the forum since april 2022.

 

[ColeyS1]

Tis true. My worst was having my neighbour ask me to make some door wedges and i wasnt able to do it. I miss making stuff so much. Amazon is better than netflix but nothing beats being in a workshop

 

[pollys13]

Chin up Coley