Making a #5 into a #10

[jmk89]

Someone mentioned on another forum I belong to that they had seen a mention on the internet of a guy who was going to try to convert a #5 into a bench rebate plane (like a #10). He was wondering who it was, where he had seen it and how the project had gone.

Anyone here have any ideas?

 

[matthewwh]

Wouldn't it be easier to just sell the No.5 and buy a No.10?

 

[jmk89]

Wouldn't it be easier to just sell the No.5 and buy a No.10?

I don't know what the price diff is like in the UK, but around here it costs between $135 - $250 for a #10 and $20-$35 for a #5

 

[bugbear]

Someone mentioned on another forum I belong to that they had seen a mention on the internet of a guy who was going to try to convert a #5 into a bench rebate plane (like a #10). He was wondering who it was, where he had seen it and how the project had gone.

Anyone here have any ideas?

My idea is that a #10 is more of a collectible than a user.

If I wanted to cut big rebates, I'd use a plain skew rebate, or a badger. Better, commoner, cheaper and more effective.

If you want a collectible, pick the #289.

But putting in the metalwork to make a #5 into a #10 - not good (*)

BugBear

(*) unles you simply want metalwork as a hobby, which is perfectly legitimate

http://www.georgesbasement.com/no4scrpr.html
http://www.georgesbasement.com/mkno4scr.html
http://www.georgesbasement.com/GeorgeAl ... rPlane.htm

 

[tnimble]

Far to much effort for the result. Your better off with the other rabate, bullnose and shoulder planes readily available.

 

[Pekka Huhta]

A #10 has much heavier casting than a "5 around the mouth area. I would expect that a fiver would be very prone to cracks if you ever got the openings done and finished on both sides.

I have seen a plane where only right side was opened for rabbet work. It would probably be much safer and simpler option. Of course the max. rabbet width would be restricted to the blade width (mouth on the other side would prevent going any deeper), but you seldom need a rabbet wider than 2".

Modifying the iron from a wider one would be very difficult unless you heat treat it. But otherwise it should be doable. If you want a bench rabbet plane and can't afford "the real one", it can be done if you are ready for the work.

Pekka

 

[Admiral]

A #10 has much heavier casting than a "5 around the mouth area. I would expect that a fiver would be very prone to cracks if you ever got the openings done and finished on both sides.
Pekka

Actually, while I think such a conversion would not be economical, and may not be satisfactory at all, I can see where someone may wish to do it just to say it can be done, sort of like climbing Mt. Everest.

That being said, if one were to undertake this task, I would suggest using the Type 17 (and some of the Type 18s as well) US Stanley wartime production, as for some unknown reason, the sole and cheek castings were significantly thicker than prior (or for that matter, subsequent) production; perhaps even thicker than the #10 cheeks, although I'd have to check that.

RN

 

[Ryan Cathey]

US Stanley wartime production, as for some unknown reason, the sole and cheek castings were significantly thicker than prior...

Stanley had a lack of man power during that time, for obvious reasons, so the bodies weren't ground as much. Just enough to take off the casting marks.

 

[jmk89]

Thanks for the replies - all very helpful. I passed the information on and Jake decided to go ahead and make a rebate plane out of on old Marples #4 and a cut down #4 1/2 cutter. If you would like to follow the story in more detail, here's the thread on the Oz Woodwork Forum:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=60205