I see some questions about these irons - along with one tiring repeat that the australian iron may not be 10V and it's potentially a play on LV's V11?
10V isn't a new steel - why there's a need to accuse someone who says they're using 10V of riding on V11 coattails is beyond me - especially when the actual seller of the 10V stuff in australia confirmed to a buyer that it's "10V/A11".
Both names for the same steel.
One group hides the alloy, another guy states flat out what it is and he's accused of not using what he says he's using. Wow.
Charlie - flatness of these. I'll report, again, not lending credibility to them by aspect - this is an escapade driven by curiosity, not practicality. At any rate, these are steels that can be hardened in thin cross sections with plate and other hardening methods that don't yield much warping. O1 cannot be plate hardened, and below that yet, the water hardening steels require a very fast quench. We shouldn't see any significant warping in any of these, and they're ground post heat treat.
The real question is how coarsely the backs of the irons are ground, and if that's done with care. 10V is usually finished with a coarse grind because of the cost and time to grind.
I'm not reading any more about either steel so as not to be biased - powder metal steel usually has a strange failure shape at the edge. V11 in my chisel tests fared poorly because it doesn't seem to have a predominant grain direction from rolling, which shouldn't be a surprise. It's sintered powder that gets rolled, but some powder steels do take a dominant grain direction when they're rolled (3V does) which is a good thing for woodworking tools.
Diamonds are a practical must for all of these steels. Realistically, they're a good idea for V11. The barrier to entry for that is about $30 and a microbevel, but if it's not practical in the first place (none of these steels really are in my opinion, except for beginners who just don't yet believe that what they really need to do is get repetition sharpening and build speed), having more sharpening materials around isn't great.
The $30 fix in the US is an 8x3 milled steel two sided diamond hone from amazon ($21). These are good hones - they're cheap, because they wholesale from china FOB for $6-7 each and someone saved us from the woodworking retailers by just dumping a big crate of them periodically on amazon. they probably make a few dollars each, amazon does the work, and we get them for $21 instead of $50-$100 from "our friends".
the other end of the sharpening after a secondary bevel is created is just finishing it on 1 micron diamond lapdiary power ($8 shipping included on ebay).
Add tax, and I guess I'm closer to $31 for most people.
----------------
I reserve the right to complain about how much of a pain these are to use in practical situations, especially once they start to take on nicks from real use.
I did that with V11 already, though. Great stuff in a test. Intolerable for someone working by hand from rough lumber if even a stock stanley iron is around.
I don't think honing nicks out of irons will be much of a problem for people who aren't using them, though, and that's the real market now, anyway.
This lake erie guy really needs someone on his side who doesn't know much about steel but wants everyone to believe they do.
David Eckert probably deserves a friend somewhere who will at least believe him, too, when he actually states outright what steel he's using, instead of being referred to as knowing nothing about steel by a guy who told the buying public that V11 was A11 steel.
Way off.