Made a balls up

[marcros]

Some months ago, I started to make a simple waterfall table from some brown oak. It was a leftover board from another project.

The issue is that I didn't change a setting on the domino, and on the leg side produced through domino holes.

Any ideas how I can make this into a design feature? Bowties are one possibility, false through tennons are another in a contrasting timber maybe.

Help!

 

[screwpainting]

Bummer!
How about creating some sort of teardrop shape filled with coloured epoxy.
No one will have a clue what they are supposed to be (even you ) and might even look deliberate (homer)

 

[Inspector]

Make contrasting wood dominoes and put them in and add one or two small wedges in them if you like.

 

[oakmitre]

Green and green ebony plugs ?

The type used to hide screw joinery ?

 

[scholar]

Do you have any offcuts of the slab itself?

If so, given the style of the table, I would try to patch in some pieces to match as far as possible. They would only need to be a few mm thick and you could fill most of the hole with dominoes.

They would not be invisible, of course, but if you can match the grain direction that would be my preference.

Cheers

 

[ColeyS1]

Could you make the table a little shorter and cut off the mistake?

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[thetyreman]

could you not carefully make some of the same brown oak dominoes by hand, then cut them off and plane it flush?

 

[SteveF]

run a groove all the way across and insert a contrast strip

Steve

 

[marcros]

I can't make it shorter, it would just be a bit too short, unless I create a foot of sorts. May be an option actually.

I should have some offcuts from the same board though, so may try that before I do much else. Failing that, either contrasting dominos, or Greene and Greene plugs.

 

[ColeyS1]

Oh I see. I was thinking the table might be 2 inches thick with the dominoes fairly central,then perhaps loose 30mm for height after you cut away the holes. It's on my list of things to make. It's the runny epoxy that scares me though.

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[marcros]

no, it is only a lightweight side table. 15mm top, and the other end will be acrylic. There is a couple of defects to fill with a bit of epoxy, but not much involved. I have a second project that will also use a small amount of epoxy, and the same finish. I am hoping to get them both done at a similar time, so that shelf life of the products doesn't become an issue.

 

[Trevanion]

Faux through-tenons with wedges to give it that proper joinery look?

You could glue up 5 pieces of timber (3 oak and perhaps 2 contrasting) to make a short length of domino sized stock, square off the holes and put them in there.

 

[Adam9453]

I’d agree with the idea above of cutting off the mistake and then adding a set back contrasting full width foot to create the look of it slightly hovering off the floor. Alternatively route oversize dovetail keys through the joint, would add a nice level of detail if nice contrasting timber is used, such as; https://goo.gl/images/Kpt5Eo

 

[rafezetter]

Add some more - spaced so as to look like stitching holes then run some braided or twisted metal cable 'tween the sections (copper?) so it looks like the sides are stitched to the top.

 

[woodbloke66]

I'd rout out all the domino holes to make one continuous slot across the whole side, which could then be filled with a contrasting timber (ebony for example) and this could be profiled to form a fingertip 'lift' when the table needs to be moved. Even if matching brown oak plugs were used, they would still be visible. Better IMO, to make a distinct feature to add a little something extra to the design. Very Alan Peters - Rob

 

[marcros]

Rob, do you have any pictures or images of such features? This would be the easiest thing to do, but I am not familiar with Alan Peters' work. Google brought up everything and nothing and I would like to have a look before deciding on a plan.

 

[woodbloke66]

Rob, do you have any pictures or images of such features? This would be the easiest thing to do, but I am not familiar with Alan Peters' work. Google brought up everything and nothing and I would like to have a look before deciding on a plan.

Sorry, I don't but one of his guiding mantra's was that if you do happen to make a **** up, (and it does happen, I know all about them ) try and turn it into a feature of the piece. To me, it just seemed the easiest way of turning the 'faux pas' into an attractive feature of the table.
I'd suggest that it doesn't need to protrude from the brown oak surface by more than 5 or 6mm (just enough to allow finger tip purchase) and should be rounded over and smoothed.

This is obviously not the same thing....

...but it does show the sort of profile that I was thinking about - Rob