macallister table saw, help please

[slemishwoodcrafts]

Hi,

fired up the saw today and the insert broke. dont know how it happened but the yellow insert plate snapped in half and hit the blade and would have hit me had the guard not been in place.

here are some pics.

my question is: how will i fix it? From working in B&Q i know it will be nigh on impossible to get a new one, so i thought id make one. But the insert was only about 1/4" thick plastic,but was thinner in places were there were certain fixtures etc. I was thinking about using 3/4" ply and rabbeting down to the required thickness in these places. Any thoughts?

regards

michael

 

[9fingers]

MDF perhaps?

if the mdf is not quite thick enough, you can pack the ends up with layers of tape until it is flush with the table.

When you have the outline cut, drop the blade, put the insert in and move the fence over the insert (but not over the blade!!). Start the saw and gently raise the blade to make the slot.

I keep a stock of un-cut ones to make fresh zero clearance inserts for critical cuts (and for use with my dado head- but we won't mention that!)

Bob

 

[maltrout512]

Dow

(and for use with my dado head- but we won't mention that!)

#-o [-o<

You just have. :lol: :lol:

 

[slemishwoodcrafts]

I have decided just to make an insert from plywood. I was working last night and checked to see if th saw was still stocked but alas it was discontinued!!! :twisted:

I'll let you know how I get on, hopefully it will work

regards

michael

 

[FogggyTown]

You now have a perfect opportunity. Make TWO inserts: one regular and one zero clearance. And plywood is an option but a real hardwood like maple would be better. Ply won't sand and polish like maple and you need that smoothness to keep any friction between the insert and the stock to a minimum.

 

[p111dom]

Beg to differ but I think ply and MDF won't be strong enough after you've rebated the sides down to a couple of mm around the edges. Hardwood tends to warp so that's not ideal either. The best solution IMO would be to stick with plastic. Lexan specifically which you can route carefully. It won't shatter, warp, is stong and smooth but expensive. If you can find someone who uses it to sell you an off cut that would be the cheapest way. Sign specialists use it for shop signs so you might want to start there. Don't use plexiglass though other wise you'll be picking shards out of your hair and skin if you try and cut it with power tools.