Luthier needs band saw advice please.

[OPJ]

Something I like about the Record machines is the super smooth finish to the surface of the tables. I used to think this was some kind of 'gimmick' to make their saws look pretty but, after recently replacing my SIP's table with a sheet of 25mm MDF (laminated on both sides with Formica), I've found it makes a big difference to the feed rate and consistency of the cut; that's why they do it.

So, I'd advise you to try and avoid a cheaper saw if you can, since the timber will only 'drag' along the rough surface of the table. 14" (wheel diameter/throat capacity) is a good starting point for minimum sized bandsaw - wish I'd done it myself sometimes!

 

[scubadoo]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate all the advice.
Cheers
Dave

 

[plymouth pirate]

I've the Record 350 and wish that I'd asked advice before buying.
It has its good points, yesterday I sliced 5" reclaimed Brazilian mohogany for veneering a 30" x 30" loft hatch and had no problems.
However, it is impossible to line the blade with the slot in the table and the lower bearing guides cannot be lined up properly because of this. The plastic blade guard has also being destroyed for the same reason. Tried loosening the table retaining bolts on the trunnion and also the trunnion bolts to the body but cannot get the proper alignment. Called Record and told them but no real help. I said the lower wheel needs adjusting but was told not to touch this, that was it.
Other bad points being, the weak trunnion locking system, even if the table is lightly knocked it will let the table cant and if you don't check regularly will end up cutting off true My other big moan, (or maybe it's normal), is the machine screeching like a banshee on slowdown when the motor brake is applied. Once again approached Record on this but really got nowhere apart from maybe the best thing to do is the next Yandles I can make bring the saw along and they will look at it.
So much for the 5 year warranty.
So far though, pleased with the universal. Apart from the fact it has three different size connections for the vacuum hose.
Regards
John

 

[MIGNAL]

Mignal, I have tried about 4 different blades from Ian, I can't honestly remember if one was a 5/8th, but we certainly had problems getting the tension enough on the AWESBS to cut rosewood fingerboards, and large pieces in rock maple proved difficult. - I'm not saying it's impossible, just not very easy, but to be fair I am comparing to the 14" Jet and Basato 4.

It's not the 5/8th's per say but the gauge that is the important bit. Having said that Ian must have sent you a thinner gauge blade if you were having problems tensioning it. The 5/8 th's thin gauge is the one that he recommended for resaw work on these small machines. He also knocked a few mm's off the manufacturers stated blade length. I must admit to being very sceptical at his suggestion. I'd previously tried many different Blades without much improvement but the Dragon blade was a revelation. In fact a couple of weeks ago I took a 2mm slice off an Ebony Fretboard - 3 inch in width. The finished veneer thickness doesn't vary by more than 0.2 mm along the whole length with a fairly decent surface finish.
I did spend some time 'tweaking' my Bandsaw. The wheels are co-planar, I ditched the original guides for simple hardwood dowels (that I set to just touch the blade) and I sanded the table smoother. That may go some way to explaining why it s working well - at least for a cheap machine.
I think I'll stay with my Perform! Just need to paint it a different colour. :roll:

 

[user 5024]

Welcome Dave from another Dave.

I have a Kity 613 bandsaw which is nearer the hobby end of the market than the professional I suppose, and I also wanted to try cutting veneers.
I gave up and relegated the saw to simple rough cutting. I even had difficulty in using the fence to cut a constant width. Then I discovered Dragon blades from reading this forum.
Dragon blades transformed my machine and I now regard it as a precision instrument.

There was nothing wrong with the bandsaw, I had just been using crap blades through ignorance of what standard of cut to expect.

Sadly Dragon are no longer trading although I understand that there are efforts to resurrect them but there is plenty of expert advice here if you search for bandsaw blades.

So my suggestion is that you might be OK with a smaller/cheaper machine provided you always seek out the very best blade

I was truly astonished at the difference this made to me.

 

[ByronBlack]

Mignal - you are right about the guides/surface making a difference. The AWESBS i tried to resaw an ebony fingerboard on was stock from the factory bar the dragon blade, I'm not overly happy with the bearing guides, and I'm suspect of the power too, as I was getting a lot of 'jumping' during the cut which lead to a series of deep ridges in the cut, not really the end of the worls as I can plane them out, it just created more work. (This bandsaw was not mine, but a family members).

 

[MIGNAL]

Anything like this, Byron? Known as the wash
board effect.

That was how my saw cut 6 1/2" figured Maple, that is before the thin gauge blade. I even tried a 'standard' gauge blade but at 3/8 th's rather than 1/2" - the theory being that narrower blades are easier to tension. No doubt that is true but it still did not improve things with my saw. That's why I was unsure of Ian's advice to go for the 5/8th's - I was actually going for a wider blade that surely needed more tension. It's obviously the reduced gauge of the blade that made a huge difference. I still get the shallow striations but non of the deep gashes that are evident on that picture.
I think the key with these small machines is to tweak and set them up to a high standard. They need all the help that we can give them. Couple this with the correct blade and you may end up with a machine that is fairly decent machine - or at least good enough to cut timber such as Maple at the max capacity. I'm not suggesting they will match the performance of larger machines but they should be 'fit for purpose'.

This is the Blade that is in my machine at the moment:

It's a Dure edge 3/8 th's at something like 11 TPI. It's a very thin gauge at approximately 0.36 mm 's. It leaves a very fine finish. I use it for sections 1 inch or under but in my lazy moments I've cut 2 inch with it.
The 'standard/ blades are at around 0.65 mm's and my Dragon Resaw blade is between the two at around 0.56 mm's. Dure edge would not sell me a resaw blade at the thinnest gauge (0.36) because for such purposes they are too prone to breaking.

 

[ByronBlack]

Mignal - the effect was very similar, but the wash-board was more sever and intermittent, almost as though the timber had pockets of hardness across the length.

I had a blade like your picutre from dragon saws in my basato 4 (11 tpi) and was super-impressed with the finish, I'm sure with your some patience and skill in setting up, the smaller saws can get there.

 

[scubadoo]

Bit of an update.

I'm selling my Marshall Jubilee guitar amp so my budget has gone up.

I could be looking at spending between £600-£1000. Any suggestions in that bracket?

Is secondhand a good option or is it too risky, do motors and parts 'burn out'?

Thanks for all the advice so far.

Cheers
Dave

 

[segovia]

Hi

I need a bandsaw to do the same type of work - what did you go for in the end?

John