Low cost portable workbenches any good

[patto78]

Hi, I've recently started a woodworking course at my local sixth form college. I have next to no woodworking experience, but am keen to master the basics as quickly as I can. At present there is nowhere outside of college where I can hone my skills, so I'm considering hiring a small garage.
My intention would be to furnish it with a black and decker-type portable workbench, buy a set of basic tools (saw, chisels, plane etc), and practice simple things like sawing straight, planing (something I find particularly troublesome) and chiselling basic joints.

Has anyone done something similar, or does anyone have an opinion on whether this is a good idea? My main concern is whether a rudimentary portable workbench would allow me do things (esp. the planing)

Any guidance much appreciated.

Paul.

 

[Chems]

No, probably not, wouldn't be enough wait. Make a nice one from softwood thats really heavy and use coach bolts to construct it. When it comes time to move it just undo the bolts and take it down to its parts.

Buy the book Workbenchs by Chris Schwarz:

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Ihc9 ... &q&f=false

 

[OPJ]

Welcome to the forum.

A Workmate may be of some use when working with power tools but, as Chems says; they're not steady enough for planing or hand-chopping mortises, etc.

Although, you may have better luck in using two workmates (one at either end, to create a "frame") with a heavier slab or timber/MDF/ply/whatever on top - Paul Chapman has done something just like this and I'm sure he'll be along soon... :wink:

Otherwise, I would also advise building your first bench out of pine. Depending on the space you can get, I reckon 5ft is the minimum length you should aim for though, it's very difficult to assume what you want and 'need' from a workbench before you've used one for a while.

You may even be able to get something second-hand off eBay?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Although, you may have better luck in using two workmates (one at either end, to create a "frame") with a heavier slab or timber/MDF/ply/whatever on top - Paul Chapman has done something just like this and I'm sure he'll be along soon... :wink:

What I did was to glue together three pieces of lipped 18mm MDF; fit a batten on the underside; fit a lightweight vice; drill some 3/4" holes to take the various Veritas bench dogs; and fit it into the jaws of one of the Workmate clones

It's nowhere as good as a proper bench but very useful nevertheless for odd jobs and as an assembly table.

The main problem with the various "workmates" is that they wobble. Among my collection of them I have the original which I bought in 1970 and it's still going strong. It was designed and made by Ron Hickman of Mate Tools. One of the best things he did was to make one foot adjustable so that it could be levelled on any floor. When Black and Decker bought Workmate they eventually did away with the adjustable foot so most of theirs and the other various clones wobble. But they are still useful and, despite having a proper bench, I use mine a lot. In fact I built my first kitchen in 1971 on a Workmate

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Harbo]

I have two of the original "Mates" (one I bought and one I inherited).

They have had plenty of use over the years but as Paul said a bit low for serious planing.

I fitted mine with a couple of Record Holdfast sockets which increased their versatility.

Rod

 

[Carlow52]

+1 with all the above:
re sourcing secondhand look at auction houses: eg
http://www.wilsonsauctions.com/

For the planing if you can, butt/prop the end of the bench against a wall so as to take the horz thrust.

Consider a lock box bolted to floor maybe or else dont leave your pride ad joy hand tools in the lock up

 

[jimi43]

I seem to be posting this picture a lot lately but in this case I have to post again to support the versatiliy and strength of the original Workmate.

These cost me £10 and £2 at a bootfair and they are the old ones...the ones with wide spreading legs and built really well.

Of course the oak beam weighed a ton which may have helped a bit :lol: but clamped at one end I could use a No.7 to finish of this surface well enough.

They are never going to replace a good heavy bench but in your situation and for now....get up early....go to a bootfair and bag a bargain!

Jim

 

[Harbo]

The original Workmates were made of cast aluminium with a very thick ply top and a ply base:

http://www.design-technology.info/inventors/page21.htm


Rod

 

[Paul Chapman]

The original Workmates were made of cast aluminium with a very thick ply top and a ply base:

No, Rod, the original had solid beech for the top (I have one). I think the ply top was introduced when they made the dual-height model.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Alf]

Jim, is that a Type XA? With the steel frame? 'Cos I picked up one of those secondhand (well tried to pick it up - heavy blighter) and haven't found a sniff of information about it. Started to wonder if it was a special order for the local engineering firm. Anyway, certainly if you want a workmutt that'll do its best to stay still, the steel frame instead of the aluminium casting is a big help.

 

[jimi43]

Jim, is that a Type XA? With the steel frame? 'Cos I picked up one of those secondhand (well tried to pick it up - heavy blighter) and haven't found a sniff of information about it. Started to wonder if it was a special order for the local engineering firm. Anyway, certainly if you want a workmutt that'll do its best to stay still, the steel frame instead of the aluminium casting is a big help.

Hi ALF

The one at the back is a WM525 type 6 and the one at the front is a WM625 type 5

The former is a painted steel frame and the latter, an aluminium frame. Indeed, the WM525 being steel is more stable. That is the one to look for.

That being said...the older WM625 has a pressed steel base so is heavy where you need it...at the bottom.

Here's a better view of the Workmates:

If you get an old one, check for the springs on the release levers...they perish first and are vital if you are not going to go mad trying to open and close the darn thing. If you buy one....oil or white grease these springs and the base folding leg hinges once a year. These are the bits that go first.

On the subject of your tool selection...again...trawl the bootfairs for good Stanley or Record planes (see other posts which abound here on these)...get old chisels with good makers' names on them...learn to properly restore these and you can't really go wrong for a few quid.

Jim

 

[Carlow52]

+1 on what Jim says re tools: perhaps get ur self a battered looking toolbox also, maybe with some cork tiles or similar to keep sharp tool edges protected, nothing too bright or flashy shiny to attract attention.

I spray all my tool boxes battleship grey and they are almost invisible in the back of the van: you don't need a big bright Hilti box attracting attention when u open the van door

 

[Alf]

Cheers, Jim - mine is a 525 but a bit different, so still slightly in the dark.

 

[SeanG]

Hi Paul, welcome to the forum,

The cheapo work benches are OK to use for saw horses if you get a couple (about £15 each I think), if you want to use them for planing you will have to add mass to them. On their own they are too light, so things like putting breeze blocks between the legs etc (careful they don't fall off in use ) one good way is to borrow mass from the garage wall, e.g. clamp a long piece of wood to the workbench and butt it up to the wall, so you push against it. Or do the reverse, fix a bracket to the wall and do the clamping so that the workbench is being held back. It will never be as good as a proper bench though :-(

 

[patto78]

Thanks for all the suggestions. In spite of the various ingenious workarounds the general consensus seems to be that there is no substitute for a bona fide workbench. Of course, as regards constructing one of my own, I am in the classic bind of needing one before I can create one, so the answer seems to be to buy an inexpensive model from the internet (I'm thinking approx. £300), and use this as a platform to bigger and better things. Although this is a more expensive path than I had envisioned it's clear from your responses that this is the better route.

Thanks again,

Paul.

 

[jimi43]

Hi Paul

Another recommendation is to join your local freecycle...an amazing wealth of stuff...I have seen about three workbenches in the past but missed them all....and I got a brand new condition Axminster morticer from that source!

You just have to be patient and delete all the breast pump emails!!!


Jim

 

[Alf]

Of course, as regards constructing one of my own, I am in the classic bind of needing one before I can create one...

Those who've done it (and there are a few builds about on the face of the interweb that have) seem to have made it work on the basis that once you've made the top, you use that as your bench on which to make the base. So perhaps what you really need is a couple of sturdy saw horses.

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Patto and welcome to the fold.


The saying is; to make a workbench, you need a workbench; but of course it's a paradox. You have to start somewhere with a make-do, unless you buy a bench. Which, without spending four figures, isn't going to be satisfactory.

I would go for any of the suggestions so far, with a strong leaning towards Paul's idea. I reckon some fairly sophisticated work could come off that MDF bench. Including your ideal bench!

HTH and good luck

Regards
John